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Thread: can a carputer compete with a head unit for sound quality?

  1. #221
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    the best way to use the 700 is with each driver individually driven with it's own channel.... total control

  2. #222
    Raw Wave Defiler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbocad6
    the best way to use the 700 is with each driver individually driven with it's own channel.... total control
    I'll second this and third it. AMEN BRUTHA!!!!
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  3. #223
    Maximum Bitrate 3onDubs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Defiler
    I'll second this and third it. AMEN BRUTHA!!!!
    I just purchased the two channel amp to run the tweeters seperately, which now leaves me room for a lot of possiblities. I shouldn't be looking at component systems anymore because I wont need the passive crossovers, correct? Does this mean that I could mix and match tweeters with different mids, or are certain tweets matched for specific midranges? Can anyone recommend a top of the line tweeter and top of the line driver....?
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  4. #224
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    We may be getting a bit off topic, but OK. So you are going to use the 90w x 4 amp to power the front mids and the rear mid/tweet combo (if that is what you have) and then use the 45w x 2 amp for the front tweets?
    That would work, but I think the better solution would be to use the 90x4 amp for the front tweets and front mids and then use the 45x2 amp to power the rear channels.

    If I'm not seeing your system properly shoot me a PM and I'll help you get it sorted.

    You must have a price range in mind for speakers as I don't think you want to spend thousands on them. I would recomend the Focal Poly Kevlar series. If you are needing a 6.5 mid and tweet, look at the 165KP or the 165K2P. They would both work well in a non-sealed enclosure like a door. It may be cheaper to get a mid/tweet combo with passive x-over than it is to get them seperately. I think the cost would be similar, but you would have to look around and see. These are competition worthy and run between $500-$550 for the set.
    A slightly better choice would be the Utopias, but they are higher in price and don't produce much midbass. Not much below 150Hz or so. I would stick to the Poly Kevlar I mentioned above for the best quality for the money.
    http://www.focal-america.com/catalog...wer/165kp.html
    http://www.focal-america.com/catalog...er/165k2p.html

  5. #225
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    I'm extremely partial to horn loaded compression drivers..... after getting used to the imaging & staging I don't thin I'd ever want to settle for regular tweeters again... image dynamics are some of the best available & they even make a mini,,

    every car audio enthusiast owes it to themselves to at least experience these... I've been hording away every pair of illusion audio ch-1's I can get my hands on on ebay... I don't ever want to build a system without them.... the competition image dynamics are a real close second.. if you have the space def worth considering

  6. #226
    Maximum Bitrate 3onDubs's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice...and sorry for getting off topic...i just didnt want to start a new thread since it was all related.

    @JasonWW...you were correct in describing my setup, 90X4 and 45X2. I guess I'll end up looking at the RMS of the tweets I get before deciding which amp to use for them. The only reason I was thinking of keeping 90W for each rear driver is because they sound so much better with the proper power feeding them. My last amp was 45 X 4, and they sounded nothing like they do now....but we'll see.

    Also, what do you think about CDT Audio? I've seen good reviews about their drivers.
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  7. #227
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    Well, I don't use rear fill and I doubt many of us here do. Typically the rears are played at a much lower volume than the fronts so that they only fill in the empty area behind you. I never really liked them, but the 701 can delay the signal going to the rear drivers, so maybe you can get them to sound decent. I never had a delay to play around with. Ideally you would want to use the same mids in the rear as you use in the front (rear tweeters aren't really necessary, but others may disagree with me on that) so that the tonal balance is the same. 2 different mids front and rear might sound funny, but might be alright, it all depends.

    As far as what amp to use, try it both ways. See what works the best to you. In theory the rears should play at a lower volume in comparison to the fronts, so usually the lesser power for the rear is OK. If I remember correctly, reducing the power by half (90 to 45) reduces the volume 3dB. The rear speakers should be played at least 3dB lower in volume than the front's, right?
    You don't want to under power your main front speakers though. They are the most important ones. I always give them the priority.

    You may just have to try them both and see what actually works. That's the bottom line.

    I've never heard of CDT Audio.

  8. #228
    Maximum Bitrate 3onDubs's Avatar
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    Yeah, you make a good point. The only reason I'm keeping my rears is because I want to make use of Alpine's true surround sound...or else I'd have two perfect ports for my subs
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  9. #229
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    I'm getting a pair of .07 set from CDT this month: http://cdtaudio.com/ES07_series.htm

    I've heard they put out great SQ but may not get as loud as I want. We'll see. I'll be pushing it with 200wrms a speaker.

  10. #230
    Maximum Bitrate 3onDubs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XxAndyxX
    I'm getting a pair of .07 set from CDT this month: http://cdtaudio.com/ES07_series.htm

    I've heard they put out great SQ but may not get as loud as I want. We'll see. I'll be pushing it with 200wrms a speaker.

    The ES 07's are the competition line correct? Those are some expensive speakers...curious to see what they sound like.

    I've heard that the CL-62's blow away JL's and Diamonds...and those aren't as high up as the ES's
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