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Thread: can a carputer compete with a head unit for sound quality?

  1. #351
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    you know...I thought for the longest time that JasonWW was right on this topic...but...searching www.dictionary.com turned up something different

    http://www.thefreedictionary.com/dict.asp?Word=damping

    damp·ing Pronunciation (dmpng)
    n.
    The capacity built into a mechanical or electrical device to prevent excessive correction and the resulting instability or oscillatory conditions.
    http://www.thefreedictionary.com/dampening

    damp·en Pronunciation (dmpn)
    v. damp·ened, damp·en·ing, damp·ens
    v.tr.
    1. To make damp.
    2. To deaden, restrain, or depress: "trade moves . . . aimed at dampening protectionist pressures in Congress" Christian Science Monitor.
    3. To soundproof.
    v.intr.
    To become damp.
    so.....I'm not sure which one to believe any more...lol
    Jan Bennett
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  2. #352
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    I personally think they both may be valid........ to me dampening is the act or means of providing deadening, &maybe damping products can be used for dampening?

  3. #353
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    From motorcycling...

    damping is the action, dampining is the result....

    maybe?
    Jan Bennett
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  4. #354
    Maximum Bitrate 3onDubs's Avatar
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    I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with door issues.

    A few weeks ago, I was trying to install a pair of 6.5" CDT components in my doors. Well, the problem with my car is that first of all, the stock speaker mounts are on the door panel (not the door itself). This makes it extremely hard to get any midbass. The second problem is that it only fits 5.25" speakers up front. I decided that I wanted bigger speakers, and I wanted them on the door itself, so I drilled holes in my doors. After that I built mdf rings to bring the speakers out 2" in order to clear the window rail. I dynamated (dampened, damped, deadened....) the hell out of my door and then hooked everything up. I was amazed at the sound difference.

    My troubles started when I went to put the door panel back on. The fact that I pushed the speaker out 2" made it so that the door panel couldn't mount properly. The bottom corner where the speaker is doesn't touch the door itself and its been bugging me. The door still closes and you can't see it with it closed, but it looks ghetto with the door open.

    I'm planning on cutting 6.5" holes in my door panels so that I can get the door panel over the mdf ring and be able to mount the CDT speaker grills (the stock grills block way too much sound).
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  5. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3onDubs
    @JasonWW: Have you checked out the auto-time alignment feature yet on ur processor?
    I don't think the auto mode is going to do a very good job. Myself and the gang at Expressive Audio both think it's better to measure and set them one at a time. I'm not going to mess with the timing between my front speakers, but I did experiment with the sub.
    I just wanted to delay the fronts evenly so that the sub would not lag behind. I roughly figured from my head to the front speakers was about 3 feet and then from my head to the sub was about 6 feet. So I delayed both front speakers 3ms to compenstae for the extra 3 feet. I think 3ms is about right.

    In my old car I had a sub up front and it rocked, but I don't have the room in my newwer TA. I had to put it in the rear and I never quite got the same effect. It's not too bad, just a little bit different sounding.

    Anyway, the delay worked real well! My freakin sub sounds like it's up front again. I can turn my head and look at the back of the car and even though I can hear the bass, it doesn't sound like it's coming from the rear.
    I mean, I'm looking right at the sub, but it's like it's not working, yet I can hear the bass. I like that a lot. The only thing that ruins the effect is when the sub vibrates something in the back near it, then you can tell it's back there. I'm going to have to start reducing the resonances.

    Another benefit I hadn't counted on was that the system sounds more dynamic. It has a little more snap or punch to it. Once I thought about it, it made sense. Instead of the bass lagging behind the front speakers spreading the transients, they are now playing at almost the same time so you get more impact.
    The end result is that it pushes the sound quality a little bit higher. When you already have a really fine system it's really hard to squeek better sound out of it. All you can hope for to get just a little more here and there. It's hard to do, but already the H700 is paying for itself.

  6. #356
    Variable Bitrate fonseca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red GTi VR6
    I'm not sure which one to believe any more...lol
    You can dampen noise, but you can also damp vibration. Sound deadening material thus provides both damping and dampening. I believe dampening is the more appropriate term. At least, that's what snobs on audio forums maintain.

    Suspension, such as bike or car shocks, provides damping only, no dampening involved. Unless your cartridge springs a leak I guess.
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  7. #357
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    I think in the audio sense it's damping as a noun and dampen as a verb. You can't call dynamat dampening material, but you can call it "a" dampening material. I say let's just forget all this.

    From what I remember, everything with mass will resonate at a certain freq. Adding mass will lower the freq. The lower the freq the more energy needed to move it. You can either lower the resonant freq to below 20hz or else move it low enough that it requires more energy than your speakers can provide for it to resonate. Since mass is not such a good idea in a car, bracing is the better solution as it can do the same thing as adding mass without as much added weight. Some times you can't brace though, like floor boards, but you CAN add mass.

    What I never understood was why people lay dynamat as one continous layer. Do they not understand what part of the panel is the sweet spot?

    Then you have the 2 types of sound that is wanting to be reduced. Resonances from the speakers in the car and then you have road noise creeping in and raising the noise floor.

    Anyway, sound deading or time alignment. Anyone want to talk about those? I'm bored and need to talk about something.

    Shocks BTW, damp the springs.

  8. #358
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    hey, you started it

  9. #359
    Variable Bitrate fonseca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonWW
    What I never understood was why people lay dynamat as one continous layer. Do they not understand what part of the panel is the sweet spot?
    I lay sound deadening (a better alternative to damping/dampening? ) material in one continuous layer myself. It makes a huge difference compared to covering just the problem zones. Perhaps not for music, but when you're cruising down the interstate at 75mph, you definitely notice a major decrease in road noise.

    But I also do multiple layers around speaker cutouts, and "loud spots". If you go with a butyl-based material, you're not adding that much weight. I put 100 square feet of Fatmat down on my car, covering pretty much everything, and only added 25lbs.


    I never responded to the comments about my use of multiple EQ curves, but I don't feel like really getting into it this late (early that is) at night. I still maintain that at least two curves are necessary though due to variation between different source recordings. My two favorite curves are loosely based on the Winamp presets of "Full" and "Soft". I was enjoying Moloko's Statues CD with "Full", which needs a little extra bass but has great vocals, and when Tosca came up next, the lows were so extreme that my chest was pounding to the bass enough to relocate organs, and the higher frequencies needed some boosting. Although I have a remote for gain control with my sub's amp, and can control the preamp output for my sub from my DSP as well, I have rejected those methods, prefering to set them initialy with a test CD and leave them. I feel it is more effective to let Road Runner load my EQ settings automatically for that album, which I am doing from now on. if that'sn wrong I don't wanna be right.
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  10. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by fonseca
    I feel it is more effective to let Road Runner load my EQ settings automatically for that album, which I am doing from now on. if that'sn wrong I don't wanna be right.
    How do you get RR to do that? Can it be for one song or a folder of songs only?

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