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Thread: Rough tune on your EQ

  1. #41
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    Lower prices?

    I've found some 31 band 1/3 ocatve software EQs for less than $90.



    btw- check here: Software options for Tuning
    Jan Bennett
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  2. #42
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    What I meant was price/performance ratio. Like a "good" $400 software based eq may not work as well as a $200 external eq. It would be great is someone had both a software and hardware and could compare the two independently

  3. #43
    Variable Bitrate FyreDaug's Avatar
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    Can you use software eq's for this too? Winamp has this 4front 10 band plug in I use at home, and I Use it to boost the bass a little and drop off some of the highs. Doesnt sound as good using the bass/treble knobs, so I got this plug in and it sounds good.

  4. #44
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    I emailed ANWIDA soft and this is what they said:

    The structure used in our eqs strictly mimics the one of analog equalizers with the advantage of not having termal drifts or lack of accuracy in the curve shape.
    The main limitation is not in the eq itself but on your audio card quality.
    Another issue to keep in mind is that digital distortion is quite different from analog one. So even if distortion due to high input levels must be avoided in both cases, it will be much more perceivable in the digital domain.

    Hope this is of help

    Best regards
    Massimiliano Tonelli

    ANWIDA Soft

  5. #45
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    good info, guess that answers the questions about software v. hardware eqs!
    Jan Bennett
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    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  6. #46
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    any suggestions for this ugly response curve?

    I can send some a higher resolution picture if you give me your email.

  7. #47
    FLAC
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    Adjust the x-over freqs.

    You've got 2 big gaps around the common x-over freqs between the sub and mid and between the mid and tweet.

    Give me some info on your entire setup and how you took those measurements.

    e-mail is in profile.
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  8. #48
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    email sent...

  9. #49
    FLAC
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    To try and figure this out I would need to know a lot more info. From what I can gather you have 2 12's in the back hatch and a mid/tweet component set with a passive x-over between them.

    Did you turn off all the bass and treble boost stuff on the amps and on the PC? Is the EQ set flat or bypassed?
    How did you measure this response? Where was the microphone?

    Since you don't have much control over the mid and tweet lets start with them. Are you using the front door locations? Where is the tweeter? There should be a tweeter level control on the passiv x-over, what is it set at?

    With all the tone controls set flat, your subs turned off and your amp gains adjusted properly, tell me how it sounds, good, bad, whatever. If you have some 6.5" mids cross those over at 90-110Hz or so. Do you hear all those drop offs in the response? The big drop above 16K is no big deal and fairly common, I wouldn't worry about that. I see the amps don't have a high pass filter. Do you have some kind of high pass filter elswhere?
    What Audio Control EQ do you have?

    The big drop between 1K and 4K is pretty strange though. A decent component set should be much smoother than that. It's as if the mids are starting to roll off too soon and then the tweets kick in. Those speakers are pretty pricey, I would expect better of them.

    Basically you want your response curve to look less jaggy and keep the 1/3 octaves within 3 or 4 dB of the band next to it. The mid/tweets will form their own curve and then you adjust the sub x-over and gains to bring the bass up to a matching volume so everything sounds good. When you see a sharp peak or dip in the curve, say 5dB or more, then you can flatten it out a little (not completely). Do as much of the response smoothing you can with the crossovers and amp gains. Sometimes you will need to alter the speaker positions or mounting angles to get a smoother response. This can be hard with the mids, but moving the tweeter is usually possible.

    The peak you have at 50Hz is just the car, no real problem there. You can cut a few dB at 40Hz and 50Hz and add a few at 70Hz to smoothen it out a little, but that's all I would do there. A bit of a hump there can sound pretty good and is more of a listener preference. You can adjust the amp gain to raise or decrease the subs level to make it blend in better with the mids.

    It really is the mids that seen to be problematic. They have weak midbass and roll off too soon (I'm guessing on that one). Unless you measured them wrong, then they should sound pretty crappy. Are they all that bad sounding to you?
    1999 Black Pontiac Trans Am
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  10. #50
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    All the bass boost is turned off and the EQ is set flat (not bypassed). I measured the response with the meter from radio shack and it was located at the passenger side head rest. I sat in the back of the car during testing to make sure not to block the sound coming from the doors and get bad measurements. The speakers are located in the stock firebird locations. There is not tweeter level control that I know of.

    My NINe.2X amp does have a HPF, I adjusted it to get rid of the 125-200 dip. And I don't know why I said I had the HD-62...It was getting late. I actually have the ES 07.1 which are about twice as expensive and much nicer and should have more midbass (7" mid-woofer). The equalizer is an Audio Control EQT

    Here are some pictures of the setup:

    Placement of the meter (ofcourse when testing, door and everything is closed)


    This is my ES 07.1 in the door.


    Audiocontrol EQT. I have them there so I can easily adjust the EQ, when I'm done I will move them to a more secure location. As you can see in the picture I have boosted some of the frequencies; they were set flat for all the response tests I did, I just adjusted them since then.



    The xover I'm using for my tweets is the SatNet 560i
    Link for the ES 07.1 series

    Also, should I adjust each EQ (and speaker) independently? Like just unplug the left speaker. And adjust the right....Then try to match the right's response curve with my left speaker? Because I'm also getting imaging problems. The system overall sounds decent. But for what I paid, it shouldn't just be decent, it should be much better.

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