Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: Amps killing battery

  1. #1
    Newbie exhumis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    20

    Amps killing battery

    Strange one:
    I have a 94 Jeep Cherokee. I am running a 180a alternator, a brand new Panasonic 800cca battery, 2 amps- a profile 1000w 4 channel and a JVC 600w 2 channel. The profile runs the front and rear speakers, fronts pyle 300w(50w rms) and the rears pioneer 100w (25w RMS). The JVC is running a 400w 10" sub in the hatch. Each amp has a dedicated fused line running from the battery to the amp. Both are grounded well. I 'metered each line and both have 12v at the amp. Here is the wierdness. I recently took my jeep to the shop to fix the exhaust. The mechanic said the battery died and was so dead it was reading 2 dead cells (my mechanic is a friend and showed me the battery so I know it was dead). I had him replace the battery, and then I took the jeep home a few days later. After I got it home I went out to start it, and the battery was dead. I thought, WTF? The battery was reading 8v. I jumped it with the wifes car, let it charge for awhile, and checked the current at the amps. While running I get 13.76v at the battery, so I know the battery is good. Both were 12v. I turned the jeep off, and checked the current again. It should be zero (0), right? nope, it's 3.2v at the profile and 1.8v at the jvc. WTF? The remote wire is hooked up and comes from the HU, which is also a jvc. So, it appears that the amps are draining somehow. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Variable Bitrate rijndael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    on Earth
    Posts
    383
    that tells me there is a short circuit somewhere in your setup. check to see that your wires didnt somehow get stripped anywhere when laying them down in the car...thats happened to me before.

    hopefully this is the problem and you just need some new cables...

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    East Central FLA
    Posts
    241
    Quote Originally Posted by exhumis View Post
    ...snip...While running I get 13.76v at the battery, so I know the battery is good.
    That means the alternator is good, and that the battery is not a dead short, but does not necessarily mean the battery is good.


    Quote Originally Posted by exhumis View Post
    Both were 12v. I turned the jeep off, and checked the current again. It should be zero (0), right? nope, it's 3.2v at the profile and 1.8v at the jvc. WTF? The remote wire is hooked up and comes from the HU, which is also a jvc. So, it appears that the amps are draining somehow. Any thoughts?
    Both what were at 12V and when - with it still running, or with it off?

    Across what were you measuring the voltage - across the amp power/ground terminals? I haven't though this through, but it seems to me you would see ~12V across the terminals even with the power off - no current would flow, but the voltage potential should still be there.

    I'm with rijndael, you may have some wire damage, or even a stray wisker of wire touching across terminals.

  4. #4
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts
    16
    You said you checked the "current" at the amps, but you listed voltage readings instead. How about giving us the actual current readings. This will tell you exactly where your problem is. I had an old Alpine deck drawing 40mA that would kill the battery after a couple days. I have also seen an amp with the remote turn-on lead shorted out internally. The switch inside the amp was stuck in the closed position.

    You will get to the bottom of this one soon enough, just keep at it.

  5. #5
    Newbie exhumis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    20
    rijndael-
    I have checked and doubled checked everything and I can't find a short. I am using one of the street wires kits and the insulation is thick, plus I also placed it inside wiring loom. No short.
    lbridges//18tblue-
    Sorry, I was tired last night. Both amps are getting 12v with the jeep on and off across the amp power/ground terminals. But I noticed something-when I place the ignition in the off position, the power light goes out on the jvc, as it should, correct? The power light does not go off on the profile. Does that mean the remote turn-on lead is stuck open? If I remove the remote turn on wire, the power light goes out. When I re-connect it, it comes back on. What I don't understand is I have these amps wired to a P-1900 Carnetix PS-with the ignition off, there should be no signal going to the amps, correct? (I wired as instructed in the manual) So how then is the profile still getting a signal? The jvc is operating as it should-ignition in acc/on, the amp turns on because the PS turns on. The ignition in off, the PS turns off, thus the jvc turns off. So back to my question, does that mean the profile amp is bad? Thanks for your help.
    P.S. -lbridges//18tblue: how would I check to see if my amp is drawing current(amps)while it is off? I have a fluke multimeter but am not sure of the setting. What I have been doing now is starting with a known voltage on my battery and checking it an hour or so later and reading the voltage again.

  6. #6
    Constant Bitrate symon_say's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Dominican Republic
    Posts
    117
    With that you just have found your problem, i don't think that your profile amp have any trouble, cause it turns off when you disconect the remote, try using the same remote that youre using with your JVC, connect it in series and see what happen.

    Dont know anything about the power supply but the Carpc power supply have some delay option to let the carpc on for some minutes maybe you have that set in yours and that keeps the amp on.

    You should conect your amps from the ignition instead of the PS.
    Design [000000000-]90%
    Parts [000-------]30%
    Installation[----------]0%
    Integration[000-------]30%

  7. #7
    Newbie exhumis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    20
    Symon_Say-
    Yeah, I think that was the problem. For some reason the PS was staying on and sending a signal to the amp telling it to stay on. Other than because the manual says so, what are the benefits of hooking amps straight to ignition other than greater/better control over startup/shutdown? Are there any misc gremlins to worry about?

  8. #8
    Newbie exhumis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    20
    To add a bit more to this,
    after some more research I found that the P1900 standby-hibernate control continues to supply power for three days after ignition is switched off. This means that your audio *stuff* receives full power until either you turn the ignition on again, or the PS detects low volts (10.6) and cuts power to the PS. In my case, because the remote on lead was receiving full power, my 1000w and 600w amps were draining my battery in about a day or so. So I am moving the remote on lead to an ignition on-acc lead. Lesson learned.
    Killing your battery in Japan: $180 USD
    Posting on a forum for help: 60 mins or so
    Reading all the manuals again and thinking: 60 mins or so
    Feeling really stupid afterward: PRICELESS!

  9. #9
    Variable Bitrate rijndael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    on Earth
    Posts
    383
    Quote Originally Posted by exhumis View Post
    To add a bit more to this,
    after some more research I found that the P1900 standby-hibernate control continues to supply power for three days after ignition is switched off. This means that your audio *stuff* receives full power until either you turn the ignition on again, or the PS detects low volts (10.6) and cuts power to the PS. In my case, because the remote on lead was receiving full power, my 1000w and 600w amps were draining my battery in about a day or so. So I am moving the remote on lead to an ignition on-acc lead. Lesson learned.
    Killing your battery in Japan: $180 USD
    Posting on a forum for help: 60 mins or so
    Reading all the manuals again and thinking: 60 mins or so
    Feeling really stupid afterward: PRICELESS!
    realizing you are in Japan and should get a Skyline R34 V-Spec and send it to Florida for Rij...Priceless

    EDIT: make that 40K...

  10. #10
    Newbie exhumis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    20
    rijndael:
    HA HA HA LOL! That was awesome. The first time I was in Japan 02-04 I had a 96 skyline R33. Even stock it would blow the doors off of anything except the 34. I looked into importing it but it was SOOOO expensive, I just sold it and cried in my beer. Almost killed myself several times because in Oki the DOT uses coral on the roads-slick as ice. The Jeep is not as fun and uses WAY more gas, but hey, it was cheap!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Can I put an extra battery in my Chevy?
    By Mastiff in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 11-04-2008, 12:45 PM
  2. m1 atx is killing my battery on taxi mode
    By cass944 in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-23-2005, 10:54 AM
  3. Dual Battery Setup?? Help!
    By Derek Lee in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-15-2005, 06:45 AM
  4. MPJA - MECI ASTEC DC-DC Converter
    By Luc in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 11-22-2004, 10:31 PM
  5. OPUS 150w keeps killing my battery. Need help!
    By EuroFan in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 10-20-2004, 08:04 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •