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Thread: Eclipse DCU105 DSP...no optical?

  1. #11
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijndael View Post
    on my DLS Ultimate Iridium speakers, its the standard ones that come with those...they are passive, not active...Ill definately try that. im waiting for a response from Red, causei couldnt find anything at all on the 650. Thanks
    you need an x-over on the amp (or external active) if you're going to run a sub with the dls's when using a stereo dac, for instance; something like this:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-Nakamichi-D...QQcmdZViewItem
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  2. #12
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    btw - I and others have posted info on the 650 here on the forums
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  3. #13
    Maximum Bitrate boomintrac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    The 650 is designed for OEM systems.
    OOps my apologies, I thought the 650 was a replacement. Good to know.
    Aron
    Absolutely 100% stock

  4. #14
    Variable Bitrate rijndael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    The 650 is designed for OEM systems.

    Go with the 701 - it's not a head unit, it's just a display. The display is only like an inch thick.
    Quote Originally Posted by SCOTT FX
    you need an x-over on the amp (or external active) if you're going to run a sub with the dls's when using a stereo dac, for instance; something like this:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-Nakamichi-D...QQcmdZViewItem
    Red: I'll reconsider the H701/RUX701 again, but i dont know where i will fit that in my dash (or if i can place that in my trunk), since the screen takes up the whole dash. is there a way to put that in my trunk attached to a custom case i will more than likely have to make for my setup? i've never been a fan of car stereo installs.

    Scott: That Nagamichi DAC...With my current setup (im using my iPod now cause the computer fried, should be getting it back by tomorrow or early next week), iPod>Amp>Crossovers>Speakers.

    If i were to add in a sub (and the needed DAC with it), i would have to set it up like this?: computer>DAC>Amp>Crossovers>Speakers

    and with the DSP it would be like this right?: Computer>DSP/controller>Amp>Crossovers>Speakers

    do i have that right, or am i missing something? How would i go about adding in a sub with the DSP? do i even need the DAC for that? cause logically, it doesnt seem to be needed cause the DSP does that for me...right?
    Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
    My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
    Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
    Subwoofer: removed
    Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
    Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed

  5. #15
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    what amp(s) do you have? it'll be easier for us to tell you how to hook it up when we know what the amp is capable of
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    Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
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  6. #16
    Variable Bitrate rijndael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx View Post
    what amp(s) do you have? it'll be easier for us to tell you how to hook it up when we know what the amp is capable of
    I am using the DLS A4 amp http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_108



    that should help

    edit: for some reason, the image wont show up...just click on the link for the picture
    Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
    My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
    Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
    Subwoofer: removed
    Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
    Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed

  7. #17
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    what a bad *** amp!

    so yeah you'd go:
    car pc-> dac -> amp

    you may need a splitter if the amp doesn't have a switch to send the signal to all chans from a stereo pair... not a big deal

    then you just wire it like normal. just make sure that the x-over settings on the amps will work with your set up. if it doesnt you may need an active x-over after the dac...but i'd assume that that amp has a pretty good x-over
    New System in progress:
    M10k
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
    Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
    Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
    Transflective Xenarc

    My Car Pc Install
    My Boat Pc worklog

  8. #18
    Variable Bitrate rijndael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx View Post
    what a bad *** amp!

    so yeah you'd go:
    car pc-> dac -> amp

    you may need a splitter if the amp doesn't have a switch to send the signal to all chans from a stereo pair... not a big deal

    then you just wire it like normal. just make sure that the x-over settings on the amps will work with your set up. if it doesnt you may need an active x-over after the dac...but i'd assume that that amp has a pretty good x-over
    Thanks for the props on my amp...i couldnt decide between the DLS and the 5.1 optical-in amp that is mentioned on a few of the threads here (too lazy to look for the name right now)...but the latter amp wouldnt have worked with optical because of the missing remote...but anyways...i was really hoping that that amp would have been good to go...

    i hope i [bold]dont[/bold] win the ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2257&rd=1&rd=1

    i bid on that item before i realized that the DAC is more like what i need, and not the whole H701/RUX setup...

    my whole setup is this...

    http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_81 <<<<Speakers webpage for specs

    >>

    The x-overs from DLS that came with the speakers should be good enough, right? I remember being either told or just reading somewhere that the H701 has an active x-over system? how would i go about making my speakers "active"? and would that be good for my speakers? know what i mean? like i said...i've never been a fan of the whole car stereo install process...i just dont know enough about it...i've been learning though

    hopefully this post wasnt too jammed-up and scrambled all over the place for you...it makes sense to me...lol

    edit: when my computer gets back from MSI, heres what the specs are for the sound card...so if this helps any...

    sound card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16829271002

    Model
    Brand HT OMEGA
    Model CLARO
    Audio core
    Audio Chipset C-Media CMI8788
    Channels 7.1
    Sample Rate 192KHz
    Digital Audio 24-bit
    SNR 115dB
    Hardware Decode Dolby Digital, DTS
    Ports
    Line In Yes
    Line Out Front/Rear/Center/Subwoofer/Rear Center
    SPDIF In Optical and Coaxial
    SPDIF Out Optical and Coaxial
    MIC In Yes
    MIDI/Joystick No
    CD/Aux In Yes

    Spec

    Interface PCI
    Operating Systems Supported Windows 2000 Service Pack 3(SP3) / XP Service Pack 1(SP1) / Server 2003 SP1/ XP Media Center Edition 2005 (MCE) / XP x64 Edition
    Features
    Features Built in front panel audio connect, Enhanced microphone volume level
    The C-Media Oxygen HD CMI8788 Audio Processor is main engine of CLARO
    4 pcs 24-bit/192kHz AK4396VF (120dB-part spec.) DACs for 7.1channel output. (24-bit/192kHz in 7.1channel playback)
    1 pc 24-bit/192kHz WM8785G (110dB-part spec.) ADC input (24-bit/192kHz recording)
    1 pc CMI9780 AC'97 2.3 CODEC for AUX input, CD input, MIC input (16bit/48kHz playback/recording)
    Integrated up to 192k/24-bit S/PDIF high grade special Optical and Coaxial connectors for 44.1kHz,48kHz, 96kHz, 192kHz SPDIF output. (work simultaneously)
    Integrated up to 192k/24-bit S/PDIF high grade special Optical receiver for 44.1kHz,48kHz, 96kHz, 192kHz SPDIF input.
    Supports onboard Coaxial or CD Digital input connector for up to 192kHz SPDIF input. (Optional Cable need for Coaxial input)
    Standard 10PIN Front Panel Audio supports connectivity for stereo audio output and a microphone input from PC case
    DTS Interactive - A real-time 5.1 channel encoder.
    DTS Neo:PC - An upmix matrix technology.
    Dolby Digital Live (DDL) - A real-time 5.1 channel encoding.
    Dolby ProLogic IIx surround processor spreading stereo audio into 7.1 channel surround sound.
    Dolby Headphone technology, conveying 5.1 surround and 3D gaming audio over stereo headphones.
    Dolby Virtual Speaker solution, bringing amazing virtual surround sound fields via general two speakers.
    C-Media FlexBass - LFE channel crossover frequency setable from range 50 to 250Hz in Small speaker mode and Small/Large speaker selectable.
    C-Media Magic Voice, popular feature for disguising your tone in online chatting.
    C-Media Xear 3D 7.1 Virtual Speaker Shifter technology.
    C-Media's unique Karaoke functions: Microphone Echo, Key-shifting.
    Individual 10-band EQ for each channel,.27 global reverberation environments.
    Supports most industrial standards of 3D sound for PC gaming, including EAX 1.0 & 2.0, A3D 1.0, and DirectSound.
    Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
    My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
    Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
    Subwoofer: removed
    Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
    Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed

  9. #19
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijndael View Post
    Thanks for the props on my amp...i couldnt decide between the DLS and the 5.1 optical-in amp that is mentioned on a few of the threads here (too lazy to look for the name right now)...but the latter amp wouldnt have worked with optical because of the missing remote...but anyways...i was really hoping that that amp would have been good to go...

    i hope i [bold]dont[/bold] win the ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2257&rd=1&rd=1

    i bid on that item before i realized that the DAC is more like what i need, and not the whole H701/RUX setup...

    my whole setup is this...

    http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_81 <<<<Speakers webpage for specs

    >>

    The x-overs from DLS that came with the speakers should be good enough, right? I remember being either told or just reading somewhere that the H701 has an active x-over system? how would i go about making my speakers "active"? and would that be good for my speakers? know what i mean? like i said...i've never been a fan of the whole car stereo install process...i just dont know enough about it...i've been learning though

    hopefully this post wasnt too jammed-up and scrambled all over the place for you...it makes sense to me...lol

    edit: when my computer gets back from MSI, heres what the specs are for the sound card...so if this helps any...
    well even if you did win the alpine unit, it's an amazing unit and you'll get great sound from it and it's easy to set up to get good sound. you also have more flexibility for tuning.

    to go active you'll need to buy another amp for the sub. you then would use one channel per speaker. meaning the dls amp will power the tweeters and the woofers... wire chan one to the left tweet, chan two to the right tweet, chan three to the left mid and chan four to the right mid. the second amp will power the subwoofer. that is roughly what i'm doing and it gives you the best sound and tuning options since you're not bound to what dls has deemed the best x-over settings to sound good in the widest variety of vehicles

    as far as the soundcard, you may not need it if your motherboard has coax digital out like the via epia boards
    New System in progress:
    M10k
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
    Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
    Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
    Transflective Xenarc

    My Car Pc Install
    My Boat Pc worklog

  10. #20
    Variable Bitrate rijndael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx View Post
    well even if you did win the alpine unit, it's an amazing unit and you'll get great sound from it and it's easy to set up to get good sound. you also have more flexibility for tuning.

    to go active you'll need to buy another amp for the sub. you then would use one channel per speaker. meaning the dls amp will power the tweeters and the woofers... wire chan one to the left tweet, chan two to the right tweet, chan three to the left mid and chan four to the right mid. the second amp will power the subwoofer. that is roughly what i'm doing and it gives you the best sound and tuning options since you're not bound to what dls has deemed the best x-over settings to sound good in the widest variety of vehicles

    as far as the soundcard, you may not need it if your motherboard has coax digital out like the via epia boards
    I did win the unit...so it should be on its way shortly...

    its a 3 way component system, so the tweets and woofers on the left for "1" and the tweets and woofers on the right for "2" and for "3" and "4" i would power the mids? i have 6 speakers up front...and none in the back for right now. i will probably get some 6x9's in the back, and maybe 1 8 or 10 inch sub...and 2 more tweeters right about where the rearview mirror is on the ceiling pointing directly towards the back.

    im so very very confused about this...lol...

    btw...i built the computer...its a Core2Duo E6300 paired with an MSI 945GM motherboard. so i do need the sounds card...and all i need to do after the H701 is installed and hooked up to the speakers is take the Optical Out from the sound card and put it in the H701 and then tune it, right?
    Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
    My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
    Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
    Subwoofer: removed
    Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
    Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed

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