I'm not sure, but I think they mean using a passive radiator or variovent.
i have been searching on google and here for the past half hour...i cant find anything...
the reason I would like to know is because the TC-9 sub that i am planning on getting said something about a small passive enclosure...
heres from the site: http://www.tcsounds.com/tc9.htm
Recommended enclosures
The TC-9 subwoofers are engineered for small sealed, ported, passive or horn loaded systems and designed for high power capabilities. We recommend an amplifier between 500 and 2000 watts RMS per driver.
There is no single perfect box. Much of what we offer is merely a general guideline to get you started. All of our system recommendations are geared for flat response but it is important to note that we do not show the recommended EQ necessarily for true in room liner frequency response. At a minimum, we strongly encourage the use of a high pass filter to prevent over excursion and potential mechanical damage to the driver in any given system design.
i know what the others are (sealed and ported)...but what is passive?
thanks....its probably a simple answer and im a retard...lol
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I'm not sure, but I think they mean using a passive radiator or variovent.
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And thats a huge range for recommended RMS power, its almost unheard of.
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ill be purchasing the DLS A6 amplifier....so power is not an issue...1200W RMS...
i thought the same thing about the passive radiator....but that doesnt make any sense...why would you need a radiator in your speaker box?
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
Do you even know what a passive radiator is or what it is for? A passive radiator is always enclosed together with the driver....
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
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my previous response should have given you that answer...lol...the answer is no.
I dont know much about subwoofers.
but either way, what would something that has to do specifically with the driver have to do with the enclosure?
EDIT: I only know what is good by the pretty colors.
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
hey...i think i found a partial answer to another question i raised in here...
read from the part it says about "for passive systems"....
Tuning Fq: The tuning frequencies specifying the actual tuning frequency of the system. For ported systems, this only depends on the port length, port area and volume of the box. For passive systems this only depends on the compliance, mass and surface area of the radiator(s) and the volume of the box. Increasing the number or size of the passive radiator(s) is like increasing the size of the port(s) and will allow for more output at tuning frequency.
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
A passive radiator changes the parameters of said driver dramaticaly, giving you more options. Like a sealed or vented box would have certain volume, certain volume is needed when using a radiator. I'll give you an example of the setup I'm building: The sub is a peerless XXLS 12", the Fs lays at 17.7Hz. Now, with the matching passive radiator, the Fs changes to 10.4Hz, allowing the sub to go even lower, if possible, in the right environment.
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
Fs = free-air resonance. Tuning it: that's where the x-over comes in, just like with a sealed enclosure.
edit: actually I have to correct myself here. Yes it is by the turn of a knob, BUT, you may want to set the x-over point as low as possible... If the environment, doesn't allow it, you won't be able to hit certain frequencies. Like in my car, I won't be able to go below 25Hz or something, unless I open the trunk or doors, to get more pressure.
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
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