Jl 500/1 Gone Bad

**mrhonnesty99** · 07-17-2007, 12:53 PM

Originally Posted by mbkowns

Let me know how it goes i have a JL Audio 300/4 locked in protect mode and it won't come out. Haven't pulled it apart yet but maybe thats whats up...

What exactly is the problem with the one you have i have a 300/4 that the yellow low ohm ligh stays on. one of the outputs sound really bad and the other 3 sound perfect is this you're case?

**mrhonnesty99** · 07-17-2007, 12:55 PM

Originally Posted by durwood

www.digikey.com

Measure it with a mutlimeter but I think it's value might be 470ohm. Make sure the transistors are all the same part# before ordering. Most amps use a complimentary pair and the might not all be IRFZ44N's. make sure you replace all the transistors on the output stage an not just the burned up ones.

Good luck.

EDIT: I forgot it's a classD amp, they might all be the same part number.

I have a switchable 15/30 watt iron, would that work for this aplication? or should i get a better one?

**durwood** · 07-17-2007, 03:03 PM

These work great. if you have something similar then you should be fine.

Soldering Iron

Desoldering Pump (High Vacuum)

**mrhonnesty99** · 07-17-2007, 03:58 PM

Originally Posted by durwood

These work great. if you have something similar then you should be fine.

Soldering Iron

Desoldering Pump (High Vacuum)

Will the fallowing work ?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

**mrhonnesty99** · 07-17-2007, 04:01 PM

What solder should i use, i want it to look clean after i am done or similar to factory. or are all solders the same?

**durwood** · 07-17-2007, 04:12 PM

Originally Posted by mrhonnesty99

Will the fallowing work ?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Those will work. I just prefer the high vacuum ones since these suck all the solder away in one shot. The one with the built in desoldering iron is nice since too sometimes.

Originally Posted by mrhonnesty99

What solder should i use, i want it to look clean after i am done or similar to factory. or are all solders the same?

I like to use a 60/40 mix with lead in it. The thinner stuff flows better/quicker and you end up with less cold solder joints. It's about the thickness of pencil lead in a mechanical pencil.

**Siezmik** · 07-17-2007, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by mrhonnesty99

What solder should i use, i want it to look clean after i am done or similar to factory. or are all solders the same?

All solders are NOT the same, especially with the move away from lead-based solder and the RoHS directive. I'd go with a good quality tin-silver solder for this type of application.

Also, the look/feel of the solder job has more to do with the quality of the work performed, as compared to the solder used (within reason of course). That is, no cold solder joints, proper use of flux, etc.

**mrhonnesty99** · 07-17-2007, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by Siezmik

All solders are NOT the same, especially with the move away from lead-based solder and the RoHS directive. I'd go with a good quality tin-silver solder for this type of application.

Also, the look/feel of the solder job has more to do with the quality of the work performed, as compared to the solder used (within reason of course). That is, no cold solder joints, proper use of flux, etc.

I got a good hand when it comes to soldering, its just that the solder that i got from radioshack looks dirty when done.

**cpt_koolbeenz** · 07-19-2007, 02:05 PM

The joints should not look dirty at all. RadioShack solder should be just fine for what you are doing. If it is RoHS compliant, you will have to use more heat to properly melt the joint. If the joint looks dirty, it is most likely a cold joint. You need to reapply heat/flux to the joint. Do you have rosin core solder? Hopefully you are using an acid free flux?

What caused the damage anyway?

**mrhonnesty99** · 07-19-2007, 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by cpt_koolbeenz

The joints should not look dirty at all. RadioShack solder should be just fine for what you are doing. If it is RoHS compliant, you will have to use more heat to properly melt the joint. If the joint looks dirty, it is most likely a cold joint. You need to reapply heat/flux to the joint. Do you have rosin core solder? Hopefully you are using an acid free flux?

What caused the damage anyway?

Would this work? http://www.radioshack.com/sm-rosin-c...i-2062715.html

I got the amp on ebay for $175 free shipping and i overlooked the description after i won it it said on the bottom sold as is, after contacting the seller i told him that i did not want the amp if it did not work.

according to the seller the amp powered on and that was it, bottom line we went back and fouth like 2 kids and he said take it for $145 shipped I said hell yeah. this is what i got instead, I just hope it works after the repair. I also opened a dispute with paypal so that i can atlest cover the damages.

the seller said it was from his brothers car that was wrecked (maybe the speaker box flew while playing loud music and the 2 ends touched) what other situation would had cause for almost all the parts to frie?