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Thread: My amp keeps cutting out

  1. #11
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    I have a 1993 chevy s10 blazer and I have the ground wire mounted to the floor board under the carpet in the back i believe. its been over a year since we installed it but im 99 percent sure thats how its mounted. I ran all my own wireing and its not under the seats. i have it going under the door jams and under the carpet once it gets to the back so im fairly certain nothings pinched or cut. im fairly new at this, im only a senior in highschool and this is my first system so im not very knowledgable on the matter. the amp that is connected now is a lanzar viberant 2000W max power, the model number is Vibe 436. the sub is a 12'' Power Acoustik with 1000w max power and 500w RMS,it is a dual voice coil so im not sure if that makes a difference in what you think the problem is, the model number is BM-12W. the way i have the sub hooked to the amp is 4 wires coming from the back of the box going to the amp, the first voice coil is connected to channel 1 positive and channel 2 negitive, the second voice coil is channel 3 positive and channel 4 negitive. is this correct or is that connected wrong? Im not quite sure how to figure out the impedence and see if there both compatible, i have an idea but thats about it. when you say check the RCA's, is that the wires coming from the radio and battery to the amp or am i totally wrong? as far as the amp placement, it is mounted on the side wall of the car, theres room behind the amp for me to put both hands so im pretty sure it has enough air getting to it. I only have the one sub at the time connected to the amp, once i get the problem fixed i plan on getting another sub to go with it.

  2. #12
    Maximum Bitrate Kimota's Avatar
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    Hello,

    Okay I think this may help if I'm reading correctly you only have 1 sub and if from your description of the way its connected to your 4 channel amp it is wired incorrectly. You should be able to follow the diagram below courtesy of SoundDomain and correct your issue.

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    With your amp I'd bridge 2 channels as seen below from the manual for your amp

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    Also make sure your ground wire is the same gauge or larger than your power I believe you said 4 agw. When you connected your ground to the chasis of your vehicle did you grind off paint to bare metal? If not you will want to do so.

    Heres a link to Sound Domain wiring wizard really usefull

  3. #13
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    thanks for the tips man, I'll try that tomorrow after I get off school and post the results. But the ground wire is the same size as the power and when I attached it to the chasis we ground off the paint and put it on bare metal so its set up right.

  4. #14
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    ok I wired everything exactly the way the diagram said and at first it seemed to be working but after about 3 or 4 minutes it still had the same problem. I have thought in the past and have had other people tell me that I might need a capacitor, do you think this would help and if so do I need to get a 2000 watt or can I get away with a smaller one?

  5. #15
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    OK, sorry for the delay in response.. Had a busy weekend.

    I'm not familiar with that woofer, and it's not on PA's website, but I'm going to assume you have a dual 4-ohm woofer. Does your box have a single terminal coming out the back, or two (one for each woofer)?

    From your description it sounds like you have your 4-channel amp bridged down to a two-channel amp and then each of the woofer's coils onto the bridged channels 1/2 and 3/4. If that's the case, then you should be fine, assuming the woofer is a dual 4-ohm coil, as each bridged mono channel will see a 4-ohm mono load. Again, your amp will accept up to a 2-ohm stereo load, which is the same as a 4-ohm mono.
    However, running your system this way does cause some problems for both the woofer and the amp. Amps are not perfect and the 2 front channels on the amp will not always produce the same power as the rear, even if the gain dials are set in the EXACT same place. You would need a multimeter and a test-tone CD, measure the output of both channels with the meter while playing the CD to get them as close to the same out put as possible. Not doing so can cause damage to your equipment, more than likely the sub, as the amp is delivering an unbalanced signal to the coils and they will not play nicely together as they will tell the motor assembly to move the same cone at different rates.

    You said you tried three other amps and had the same issue, so the problem has to be in the problem needs to be narrowed down still.
    Kimota was on the right track, but your amp can't handle a 2-ohm load to a single channel. (nice diagram btw, I work for CarDomain. )Do you know what your voice coils are? PA has had some wacky designs:
    Dual 4-ohm
    Dual 2-ohm
    Quad 1-ohm
    etc

    A cap MIGHT help your problem, assuming the problem is power related, but I don't think it is. IF your amps are cutting out at all volume levels, then it's not power. The general rule for caps is 1fd for every 1000watts.

    It really sounds like you have a impedance issue or a wiring issue to me.

  6. #16
    Maximum Bitrate Kimota's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear your still having the issue it definitely sound like a wiring issue. I've seen conflicting stats on you sub thought they were 4ohm but I've seen them listed as 2ohm hate to keep throwing ideas at you but try this wiring config courtesy of SoundDoamain again bridging the channels

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    veedubb8 SoundDomain rocks great price friendly service, buy from you guys all the time. Feel guilty though I picked a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3D410 woofers at Best Buy this weekend 99 bucks (way cheeper than any other authorized retailer). Actually my entire system in my car is from SoundDomain well except for the new woofers. Hmm what to do with my Polk db104 (got those from you guys on sale for 50 bucks each)

  7. #17
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    Kimota,

    Actually, from what I can tell, you had the diagram right the first time. The only config i can find for that sub is a dual 4-ohm. So individually (each sub to a different channel) the subs can be wired to 2-ohm or 8-ohm (as they probably are now). Wired together and run on the same channel, he can get a 1-ohm or a 4-ohm load. If each sub is wired to two-ohm, then the bridged channels of the amp cannot handle that load and will shut down/go into protection.

    I'll wait to see what he says about our recent developments/ideas and we'll go from there.

    And thanks for the kind words on SoundDomain. We try our best. B ut i understand on teh RF purchase... You gotta go where the deals are! Don't forget, sounddomain has a classifieds if you want to sell you old gear.

    Anyhow... Not to hijack the thread... We now return you to the previously posted discussion.

  8. #18
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Kimota View Post
    Sorry to hear your still having the issue it definitely sound like a wiring issue. I've seen conflicting stats on you sub thought they were 4ohm but I've seen them listed as 2ohm hate to keep throwing ideas at you but try this wiring config courtesy of SoundDoamain again bridging the channels

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    )
    I thought I'd also mention in case mikhel22 didn't know: The above image (and on the previous page) represents the connection of a single sub to the 1/2 or 3/4 bridged channels. The pic only shows one amp, so you shouldn't take the image literally. However, the sub wiring method is correct and is known as a parallel configuration. Parallel wiring lowers the impedance (the resistance of the sub).

    btw, if you need any of the terms defined, check out sounddomain.cardomainwiki.com. (not sure if mp3car's wiki has a glossary for audio terms)

  9. #19
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    i tried it but its still not working correctly, one of my friends dads owns an audio shop and after school today I'm heading over there to let him check it out. I'm out of ideas but if you can think of anything else please post it and I'll try it.

    Thanks

  10. #20
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    You tried what?

    I'm curious if your subs are dual 4-ohm. If so, then we know what the problem is. Your amp is not designed for the load you're presenting it.

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