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Thread: Ground loop/alternator whine - Opus 250w

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate notion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mylt1 View Post
    yes, the ground from the batt to the chassis as well as from the engine to the chassis. just dong that will help eliminate some if not all the problem. one quick question, is your power wire any where near you cars ECM?

    I have No idea where the ECM is located.

    Any tips on upgrading the grounding of the engine/battery???
    350z Roadster,
    Lilliput 7" touch, Opus 250w, 160gb, AMD3500+, 1gb ddr400, geforce 6500 pcie, SiRF Star 3, Wireless G, Sprint CDMA, Bluetooth, Creative iCam Pro, RR, iG 4, Digital FX 4.0

  2. #12
    CarFrontEnd Creator iamgnat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notion View Post
    Well, my car is a 350z so everything in it is "high performance" I guess.
    Unless you've put it in, never assume that no matter how expensive the car may be. Car manufacturers will always skimp where they don't think the normal owner will look/understand.

    I have run the main live feed directly from the battery via housing electrical solid core down the outside of the passenger door well to a space behind the passenger seat.
    Check this and make sure you aren't running over the wiring going to your door speaker.

    Also try moving the ground points for your amp(s) and PSU around some. Even though nothing really looks different, just moving a ground point a couple of inches can make a world of difference. Try grounding everything to the same point if possible (you want to keep your ground lines short though).

    -dave
    My pathetic worklog.
    CarFrontEnd (now it's own sub-forum!!!!)

  3. #13
    CarFrontEnd Creator iamgnat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notion View Post
    Any tips on upgrading the grounding of the engine/battery???
    Pick up a length of 4g or 0g from a sound shop (have them attach an terminal to it if you don't have the tools (0g especially is a PITA). Then simply disconnect the old ground line and replace it with the new one (you'll probably need a new battery terminal too).

    -dave
    My pathetic worklog.
    CarFrontEnd (now it's own sub-forum!!!!)

  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate notion's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips. I'm pretty sure it's not a case of the power wire running across the door speaker as when I had an inverter in place using the same wiring I had no whine at all.

    I guess it'll just be a matter of trial and error with grounding.
    350z Roadster,
    Lilliput 7" touch, Opus 250w, 160gb, AMD3500+, 1gb ddr400, geforce 6500 pcie, SiRF Star 3, Wireless G, Sprint CDMA, Bluetooth, Creative iCam Pro, RR, iG 4, Digital FX 4.0

  5. #15
    CarFrontEnd Creator iamgnat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notion View Post
    Thanks for the tips. I'm pretty sure it's not a case of the power wire running across the door speaker as when I had an inverter in place using the same wiring I had no whine at all.

    I guess it'll just be a matter of trial and error with grounding.
    The inverter grounded completely differently than the PSU does which is why you now have this issue. More than likely you are correct that it is not an issue with your power line, but some times it's the oddest thing. Since it started when you switched to the PSU, it's ground point is the best place to start.

    -dave
    My pathetic worklog.
    CarFrontEnd (now it's own sub-forum!!!!)

  6. #16
    Low Bitrate
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    4awg is large enough for upgrading the grounds. measure your negative batt cable and add 2" then find the grounding strap that runs from the motor to the frame or fire wall and do the same. then buy the amount of wire you need and get good terminals and have them crimped on or better yet solder and crimp them. then just disconnect the factory wires and run the new stuff.

  7. #17
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mylt1 View Post
    4awg is large enough for upgrading the grounds.
    In this user's situation, that may be true.
    This is not true in all situations, however.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  8. #18
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notion View Post
    Hi guys,

    I was wondering what kind of noise suppression people were using on their high wattage PSUs. I have the Opus 250w which I love, but I'm having trouble isolating alternator whine/ground loop noise making it into my system.

    I did have an in-line supporession circuit but it was choking the ampage getting to my PSU causing it to shutdown on crank, once I removed it the PSU is fine.

    Can anyone recommend a good solution for my setup?

    Thanks

    Notion

    I have one for Front, Rear and Sub...... I have major engine whine, do to a high output alternator in my truck..... these will kill the whine, give you a 3 db gain also..... http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1122655296186. All other isolators i tried did not work and screwed up the sound quality. There is another one on the market that is also good but it goes for $30.00 something dollars, thats crazy!!!!!!

  9. #19
    Low Bitrate
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    Sorry to but in on this thread, but I have noise on my D-link USB radio through the PC but no noise when playing MP3's on the PC.
    The radio is the type with an audio fly lead.
    I was thinking it was either the radio unit or associated leads that are picking up the whine from the alternator.
    Good note about the length of the ground wire, mine is 7 foot long going direct to the ground on the amp, although I cannot see it being that as it is only with the radio not mp3's.
    Maybe shielding the radio and associated wires and or radio unit or a GLI on the audio input for the radio!
    Any suggestions appreciated, I'm new to this audio stuff!
    Thanks
    Nigel

  10. #20
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by notion View Post

    I have run the main live feed directly from the battery via housing electrical solid core down the outside of the passenger door well to a space behind the passenger seat. The ground for the unit is attached right there in the installation area via a bolt drilled directly into the chassis.

    The audio cable runs back from the computer down the center of the car past the gear shift to the stock head unit aux-in.

    I used to have the computer set up on an inverter with pretty much the same wiring setup and no whine, but now with the Opus it's pretty noticable.
    Im surprised no one caught this. House wiring is for the home. Solid core wiring is designed for AC (high voltage, low amperage.) You want to use traditional car audio power wiring which is multi strand (DC, low voltage, high current). You are starving your power hungry components.

    Now, ground the chassis of the PSU to the PC chassis. It should be grounded already if the unit is screwed in but check and make sure. Ground the chassis of the PC to the same grounding point. Did you remove the paint at the grounding point? Is the grounding bolt in a solid piece of metal or attached to a convenient tack welded panel?

    Then follow my thread on eliminating ground loops.

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