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Thread: How's this audio setup sound?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    actual rated power being delivered and not just claimed, less clipping, less over heating, less distortion, etc. I'd say those are reasons enough to make the upgrade and get rid of the POS...
    i was under the impression that the 3sixty would in effect remove any distortion created by the amp. Is this not the case? I'm not an advocate at all for Boss.. the only reason i have this amp is my head unit died and i needed sound straight from the sound card asap so i'll probably be ditching it.. My question is just out of curiousity

    Quote Originally Posted by Kimota View Post
    Hi Sonic



    I believe your referring to the REM connection used to turn the 3Sixty.1 on. Not sure if the sound blaster will suffice but you can tap into any circuit switched with the ignition for the REM.




    Sure can here's the link just make sure to download the version for the 3 Sixty.1



    I think the Infinity's are a good choice.



    I’m partial to the alpine PDX 4.150


    Concerning the 2 Dual 1100max subs, do you mean each sub will be 1100 RMS or together will both subs total 1100RMS. If each sub you’re looking at is 1100 RMS you’re probably going to need an amp for each sub. If both subs together total 1100 RMS I'd recommend Alpine PDX 1.1000 and 2X Alpine R type subs.

    I'm using the 3Sixty.2 (I'm using my factory head unit) in my setup and do have the software loaded on my CarPC but generally I find it quicker and easier to make adjustments using my Pocket PC.


    P.S

    You can find some really great price for your equipment on Ebay
    Good luck with the setup
    i was referring to the voltage put out from the audio line of the sound card to the amp.

    The subs are a max wattage of 1100 each. I believe they are 600 watts RMS @ 4ohms. I'm not trying to rattle the car at all with the power output of the subs i just basically would like full sound that the infinity components dont allow for. I know dual is best buys basement brand but i already have them and lets face it.. its a helluva better upgrade than the visonik crap i have now.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by durwood View Post
    I could recommed a just about anything to you, but without a budget I don't know where you stand.
    i dont want to spend more than $400 for the components and $300 for the component amp.
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  3. #13
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Do you happen to know the mounting size and depth? Where are the locations of the tweeters? (apillar or dash?) I'm not completely familiar with that car. I can price you out a killer setup for that budget. One thign to think about, what is it that you don't like that you want to change? If the tweeters are the lacking component, focus on those. Go active, ditch the passives and swap the tweeters. If you need more midbass or midrange, then think about changing the whole set.

    Too bad on the subs, but maybe with what you save on my recommendations, you can upgrade, but if they have worked for you and are still holding up, they are the least important speaker.

    if you can fit a 7" midbass:

    Creative Sound SDX7 $200 pair

    if you have to go with a 6.5"

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-162
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-164
    http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6218

    watchout for depth

    Tweeter

    Seas Neo Aluminum $60 pair

    Amps:
    JL audio A6450 or 4300
    USAMP XT1600.4 or XT800.4

    Did you plan on running the speakers active or with a passive crossover? I'm not sure what the 360.1 can do, but the 360.2 does have crossovers.

    These are just some of the things I have noted as good performers.

    Added:

    I just remembered this.

    Behringer DCX2496 + DC-DC supply
    Behringer DCX2496 -- dc power supply

    if you have the room, that would be a great solution instead of the rockford piece. It even has software you can use to set it up.

  4. #14
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    i agree with durwood, if you're going to go with a processor like the rf or the behringer (i have that one) definitely take advantage of going fully active. for mids i'd look into the Vifa XG18 or seas rnx line or Peerless Exclusive 830883

    here is some more info on those drivers:
    http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ight=Vifa+XG18

    just keep in mind that you'll need 5 chans of amplification (four for the mids/tweets, one for the sub) But the jump in quality of your components is far beyond what you could find for a similarly priced pre made component set.

    as far as the behringer unit, you actually dont need a lot of room if you take it out of the case. the actual brains of the unit is probably smaller then your car's owners manual.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by durwood View Post
    Do you happen to know the mounting size and depth? Where are the locations of the tweeters? (apillar or dash?) I'm not completely familiar with that car. I can price you out a killer setup for that budget. One thign to think about, what is it that you don't like that you want to change? If the tweeters are the lacking component, focus on those. Go active, ditch the passives and swap the tweeters. If you need more midbass or midrange, then think about changing the whole set.

    Too bad on the subs, but maybe with what you save on my recommendations, you can upgrade, but if they have worked for you and are still holding up, they are the least important speaker.

    if you can fit a 7" midbass:

    Creative Sound SDX7 $200 pair

    if you have to go with a 6.5"

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-162
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-164
    http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6218

    watchout for depth

    Tweeter

    Seas Neo Aluminum $60 pair

    Amps:
    JL audio A6450 or 4300
    USAMP XT1600.4 or XT800.4

    Did you plan on running the speakers active or with a passive crossover? I'm not sure what the 360.1 can do, but the 360.2 does have crossovers.

    These are just some of the things I have noted as good performers.

    Added:

    I just remembered this.

    Behringer DCX2496 + DC-DC supply
    Behringer DCX2496 -- dc power supply

    if you have the room, that would be a great solution instead of the rockford piece. It even has software you can use to set it up.
    the car has 6 3/4" in the front.. mounting depth wont be an issue because i'm fiberglassing my own door panel mounts. i doubt i could get a 7" in with enough room to spare though. The stock tweets are high on the dash ... close to the position of the VIN number. As for passive vs. active i really cant say because i've never run an active setup. As for what i'm looking for.. basically i'm looking for full range sound. With my current setup i've got blaring highs and pretty violent lows. I'd say every range from about 160hz to 3k is SEVERELY lacking. Software adjustable Eq dont help at all and my music flat out sounds like **** unless i'm using winamp's "DSP" plugin. as for the processor.. i'm content with the 360.1 . It has adjustable x'overs for each source and i've also discovered windows software that works with it. I'm gonna go ahead and do a little more homework in the speaker and amp selection. i appreciate the recommendations
    NOVA, MD, DC Monthly Meets Here
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  6. #16
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    to me, it sounds like an installation issue. you may have to install your tweets off axis or find a fabric dome tweet that works well on axis. as far as the lack in the mids, you should def sound deaden your doors. those two things may improve your sq by leaps and bounds. another thing, if your car has 6 3/4 openings i doubt you wouldnt be able to throw in some 7 inchers with little to no mods (maybe an adapter ring is all you'd need.

    for amps look into the xtant amps (i've run one in the past and loved it). they can be had pretty reasonably on ebay. also check out the lower end zapco stuff. great name great build quality. woofersetc have them
    New System in progress:
    M10k
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
    Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
    Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
    Transflective Xenarc

    My Car Pc Install
    My Boat Pc worklog

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
    I disagree, but I'll leave it there.
    i actually have a boss amp that ive had for 5 or six years constantly in my car running a set of Boston Acustics 6x9's i keep wanting to replace it but it has yet to give me a reason. Dosent look as nice as the sound stream running my subs but if you have it use it till it blows or till you find some other fault with it

  8. #18
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    I would ditch the Sound Blaster...
    Get anything Auzen...

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by WuNgUn View Post
    I would ditch the Sound Blaster...
    Get anything Auzen...
    far as i can tell they dont make external sound cards...
    NOVA, MD, DC Monthly Meets Here
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  10. #20
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Why not use PCI?

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