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Thread: Problems with Sound

  1. #1
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    Question Problems with Sound

    I am just in the mids of getting my carputer up and running. Everything boots up ok, except i am having problems with sound.

    First off, i have a alpine 4-channel amp which will be giving power to my 4 speakers.

    I bought a wire harness to fit into the stock one. I tried running 16awg speaker wire from the positive speakers on my harness to the positive in my amp for chanel one and the same for the ground.

    So, i have 4 wires altogether running from wire harness to the 4-channels on my amp.

    Boot up and get no sound. I double checked the wires to make sure i was tapping into the right one and i was. So, i then researched to see what the factory wire color is for acura since i drive a 05 acura rsx-s and tapped the stock wire harness which is basically the same think as i was trying before.

    Didn't work. No sound.

    I then disconnected all the speaker wire to the wire harness and tried one speaker at a time starting with the back right. I took out the back speaker and tapped right behind that and supplied the positive and negative to my first channel on my amp.

    I got sound out of that speaker.

    So, then i went ahead and did the same thing to my right speaker and tapped right behind the speaker. I kept the front speakers disconnected and booted the computer to see what happends. The first speaker i tapped into which was the rear right worked fine.
    The rear left speaker works fine, but when windows loads it crakcles a little bit until windows completely loads and then it seems fine.

    What is really weird is i dont have the front speakers connected as i will need to take off the door panel to access the speaker but, when windows starts to load the front right speaker will crackle even though its not connected. And i get no response out of the other front speaker which is normal since its not hooked up.

    I have two grounds in my back trunk.
    I have a power distro block splitting power for my dsatx and amp.

    Bad ground? ground loop?
    Not sure why i cant tap into the harness..

    Also, when i had just the amp getting power, i did this just for testing the speakers i smelt burning. Which is weird because at this point i only had the amp getting power.

    I disconnected the battery and check all my fuses and they are fine.

    This morning when i got up i noticed my turn signals are not working. I have checked the fuse under my hood and its fine. i think this is the fuse for the hazzard button. I have not checked the fuse under my dash whcih i think is for the turn signal.

    Not sure why this is not working either.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. and sorry for the long post.

  2. #2
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    My first question to you, is your car equipt with the factory bose system? If so you need to bypass the factory amp in order to use the 4-ch amp.

    Quote Originally Posted by TeamRSX View Post
    I bought a wire harness to fit into the stock one. I tried running 16awg speaker wire from the positive speakers on my harness to the positive in my amp for chanel one and the same for the ground.

    So, i have 4 wires altogether running from wire harness to the 4-channels on my amp.
    When running a 4 ch amp you need to have a total of 8 individual wires going out of the amp (2 wires per speaker). And you should never have a speaker wire going to ground. The positive of the speaker must go to the positive speaker output of the amp, and the negative of the speaker must go to the negative speaker output of the amp. Although if you are refering to the negative speaker lead as ground, please dont call it a ground. The "ground" is defined as the power ground or chassis, and should never be confused with anytype of signal negative or the soil/dirt type ground (I'll save the story for another time). I'm just trying to help you define your terms so you can get better help.
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  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate ronjon228's Avatar
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    Definitely sounds like a factory amp is installed. That's the first thing I thought also. In order to bypass it, you either have to run all new speaker wires from your speakers to your amp, or do what I did. I just found the factory amp (it was on top of my trunk deck). I removed it, and then did a continuity test to find out what leads on the harness went to each speaker. Then I just ran speaker wires from there, to my amp(s). It's a bit more troubleshooting, but it keeps thing clean and allows you to use your factory speaker wires instead of having to run all new ones.
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  4. #4
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pancit175 View Post
    My first question to you, is your car equipt with the factory bose system? If so you need to bypass the factory amp in order to use the 4-ch amp.


    When running a 4 ch amp you need to have a total of 8 individual wires going out of the amp (2 wires per speaker). And you should never have a speaker wire going to ground. The positive of the speaker must go to the positive speaker output of the amp, and the negative of the speaker must go to the negative speaker output of the amp. Although if you are refering to the negative speaker lead as ground, please dont call it a ground. The "ground" is defined as the power ground or chassis, and should never be confused with anytype of signal negative or the soil/dirt type ground (I'll save the story for another time). I'm just trying to help you define your terms so you can get better help.
    Sorry for my terms.

    I do have 8 wires total.. What i mean is i have positive and negitive on each speaker which ties into eahc positive and negative channel on the amp. So, i have 8 total wires.

    My car comes factory with a bose system, but what i did is totally removed the bose amp from my car becasue i was not using it.

    Do i have to install it and bypass it that way for the speakers to work? I guess i will need to figure out which wires the stock bose amp used in order to bypass.

  5. #5
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    What the factory bose system does is start from the headunit out through the speaker lines in the harness. Those wires then go into the factory amplifier and lastly out through the speakers.
    You are correct to remove the factory amp (weight reduction), but like you led on to, you need to wire your 4-ch amplifier output to the wires that were hooked up to the factory amplifier's output. Don't forget to wireup the tweeters, you may also need capacitors/crossovers to save those from blowing. Either that or you could run wires to each speaker. Although, I always recommend that you change your speakers if using a 4-ch amp. The factory speakers may be prone to blowing or wearing out quicker, because of the low amount of wattage factory speakers can accept. Some people believe/argue that a headunit is sitting on the threshold of the power handling of factory speakers. Whereas a standard aftermarket 4-ch amp is nearly 2x or more power than an aftermarket headunit. Plus you would get better performing sound with newer speakers.
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  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    Ok,

    So, now i ended up taking out the bose amp and i tapped in from behind the actual speaker. Which was kinda of a pain for the front speakers becasue i had to take off the door panel to access the speaker.

    The problem is i could only get 2 channels working at once. I have the 2 front speakers on channel 3 and 4 and the rear speakers on channel 1 and 2.

    If i have both sets of rca cables for the 4 channels in the amp i get only back speakers. If i take out the rcas for the back speakers (ch1/2) and only have the front(ch 3/4) in then i get audio in the front speakers. Not sure why

    So, i then decided to leave that for now and just have the front 2 speakers on the first 2 channels and then bridge my sub on the other channels and works fine. So,, not sure why i cant get all 4 speakers on the 4 channels.

    The other problem i am having is the spearkers still crackle and i notice when i rev the car higher the louder it gets. Its like the crackling is tied into my rpms.

    Anyways, other than that everything is working fine. Could this be a problem with a bad ground? Ground loop?

  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate TeamRSX's Avatar
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    I just put in a ground loop isolator on my first 2 channels (as i can only get 2 channels working with my 4 channel amp right now.) and the crackling was reduced heavily and dont think my front left speaker crackles, but my right speakers wines now especially when i give the car gas. When i'm stopped i can barely hear it.

    any ideas?

    I have a main ground distro block in my back trunk which is grounded to the metal frame. I also grounded my computer case to this ground, amp, dsatx.

    I then have my slim usb dvd, usb hub, hd radio and lillilput gound to wire harness becaue they are all up front of the car.

    So, not sure why i am getting winning noises only out of the right front speaker it seems.

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