The Most Incredibly Un-killable Ground Noise ever...

**Nola111** · 04-22-2008, 05:20 PM

Ok will do.

On the Jensen, I noticed this in the stat sheet: "To avoid excessive high
frequency losses, no more than 3 feet of cable should be used on its outputs" My output cables are more like 16 feet! (trunk to the dash).

**AWehmeyer** · 04-22-2008, 09:43 PM

I can't imagine any "excessive high frequency losses". Anyway, put the transformers near the amps. The length of the input cables won't matter.

**Nola111** · 09-28-2008, 06:31 PM

Time to revive this thread as I'm still battling the noise.

I have not purchased the Jensen transformer yet, mainly b/c it's $130. Does anyone know of anything else like this that's a tad cheaper? Not a GLI from radio shack, I mean a good transformer like this Jensen. I'd really like to try it before tearing apart my entire system and starting over.

**Punky** · 09-28-2008, 07:03 PM

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/20...r_battery.html
should work well.

**Nola111** · 09-29-2008, 02:37 PM

Thanks Punky. Not sure I get what to do with that though? One side goes to the battery and then what about the other side?

**Nola111** · 09-29-2008, 02:38 PM

One more thing to all you car audio experts... I didn't mention in my original post that that I can hear the hard drive activity pretty clearly through my speakers. Everytime it's getting accessed the noise gets louder and you can almost tell that it's a "spinning" sound.

Does this help isolate what my issue is, or is it just that all the noises in the pc are going to come through until I figure this thing out?

**insaneramman** · 09-29-2008, 06:26 PM

1. Ferrite snap-ons - I added a couple to the antenna wires helped cut the static in my hd rec.
2. Check your battery ground is it good (no corrsion(sp), good connections)?
3. Run your grounds to different places Amps to one comp to another,and so on.
4. The ground loop iso. I use is a scoshe(sp)from wal-mart it req. no power to work. rcas on both ends box in the middle.Maybe cheap(less than $15) but, worked for me.

I use an aux in on my head unit so I hope this helps( no exper. with amps or soundcards).If you do find a solution plz post it, It will help others.

**Nola111** · 09-30-2008, 02:13 PM

Thanks insane, I've been thinking about ferrite as well. As far as your #3 comment though, that seems to contradict what I've read elsewhere. It seems I've read more than once that you should ground everything to the best bare metal contact point of the car that you can.

Well after doing some more troubleshooting and isolating I've narrowed it down to the Tio amps as what is putting out the noise. There is actually no noise coming from the soundcard.

So I'm wondering: right now the Tio amps are powered by a 4 prong molex plug coming from my PC's psu, same as the harddrive. (this is the only way to power the Tio's, or the only connection I should say). How can I try to ground the Tio's in an alternate way? Would I be able to cut the ground wire that's currently running to the Tio from the PC psu and wire that directly to the bare metal of the car? Or would that create another ground loop since the PC psu is already grounded to the bare metal?

**Nola111** · 09-30-2008, 02:43 PM

Insane, where did you buy your ferrite clips? I was sure Radio Shack would have something like this but they just looked at me like I spoke Mandarin to them when I asked for them.

**insaneramman** · 09-30-2008, 06:43 PM

Long story short they were included with my sisters Monster Power Cond./Surge supressor. She gave them to me after I helped her install her plasma. As far as buying them alone I am clueless.

Oh and as far as suggestion #3 I wasn't aware that your PSU ran the amps too. In my situation (PC through head unit) PC grounded one place and HU grounded to another.