yes, you should always isolate your own
wiring as much as possible from the car's factory wiring.
the only non-factory electrical device that is directly connected to my car's factory wiring is a single 30A automotive relay triggered by the ACC circuit that was formerly used to trigger
head unit. everything else is powered or triggered from the relay.
if you're absolutely sure that you won't be directly powering any future devices from it then you can use a small wire with a small fuse. if you think you may want to add devices later on (for example; hardwire a cellphone charger, radar detector, etc) then you may want to use a larger wire with a larger main fuse.
I run a 10awg wire with a 10A fuse as my
power wire because I use it for more than just remote triggering. I use my relay to directly power my PAC SWI-X, radar detector, and a center console power jack (for cellphone charger, etc); as well as a signal/ trigger for my M2-ATX, equalizer, and 2 amplifiers. I run another 10awg wire with a 15A fuse to provide constant 12v+ to my M2-ATX and equalizer. I run a 4awg wire with a 40A fuse for my amplifiers.
as you can see I'm a little overly cautious when it comes to car wiring. I learned the hard way 10 years ago (I was 17 then

) when my first car caught on fire and burnt to a crisp due to my insufficient
amplifier power wiring. I'll never make that mistake again
...the point is. you can never be too safe when it comes to car wiring. wires CAN and WILL burn up if you put too much of a load on them. if you're ever in doubt of how big wire gauge you need, ALWAYS GO BIGGER! (and use the smallest fuse possible regardless of wire gauge)

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