on the amp itself what size fuse is there?
the inline fuse should be that size or slightly bigger.
personally i prefer a breaker to a fuse, most of those start at 50A upwards, if it pops you just reset it![]()
I just upgraded from a Rockford Fosgate setup, to JL (1000/1 450/4) and new speakers (Focal).
The new setup POUNDS hard! but I noticed I snapped the 30amp fuse on my power dist block that the 1000/1 is hooked up to when I was about 60-70% on the Bass (using the Remote Bass control).
Should I go a bigger amp fuses for this new amp? I have the line fused 18 inches from the battery also (forgot the size of that fuse but its bigger and that didnt snap).
If the 30amp fuse to the 1000/1 snapped it is because it got to hot, but is 30amp fuse enough for that amp and I need to lower the bass ? or should I try like a 40, then 45...etc
on the amp itself what size fuse is there?
the inline fuse should be that size or slightly bigger.
personally i prefer a breaker to a fuse, most of those start at 50A upwards, if it pops you just reset it![]()
Well...the AMP is the JL 1000/1 and there is no noticable fuse on it, perhaps inside which requires unscrewing and getting into the amp <shrug>.
I'm going to try some 40 and 50 amp fuses.
ok.. not familiar with those amps.
what sort of wattage RMS do they put out?
my 4x50 rms has a 40A fuse
1000x1 RMS mono amp. Pretty powerful stuff.
* Rated Power: 1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)
* THD at Rated Power: <0.05% @ 4 ohm
* S/N Ratio*: >95dB below rated power
* Frequency Response: 5 Hz-500 Hz (+0, -1dB)
* Damping Factor: >500 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz
* Input Range: switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS
* Dimensions: 19.7"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H
* Differential-Balanced Input Topology: (1 pair of inputs)
* On-board Crossover: fully-variable (40-200 Hz), selectable-slope LP (12 or 24 dB per octave)
* Preamp Output: 2-channel (independent active filter, parallel with amp filter or full-range)
* Bass EQ: parametric with variable boost up to 15dB and Remote Bass Control (optional)
* Infrasonic Filter: fully-variable 24dB/octave from 15-60 Hz
* Output Polarity Reversal: switch permits instant output polarity reversal
* Dual mono speaker output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire
* +12V and Ground connections: accept 4ga. wire (required)
i would be looking at 80A + fuses at least. seriously look at getting a breaker for that sort of power
real basic quick and dirty math here but
1000W amp / 12V = 83A
got a link on where i can get one of these breakers?
Something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/CAR-STEREO-AUDIO...QQcmdZViewItem
I would need to put like a 100amp fuse on the distribution block that goes only to that AMP , then wire in the circuit breaker.
the breaker like that one would go at the battery, replacing the fuse
distro block should not need a fuse or breaker
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