Thread: most appropriate wiring solution for dual voice coils

I know alot has changed but the math and physics for hooking up speakers is still pretty much the same. Here's the impedances for wiring just one speaker. Just repeat the wiring for the other speaker to get a matched pair.

1. If you wire both coils in parallel on one speaker it will give you a 2 ohm load. (+ to + and - to -)

2. If you wire each coil in series it will give you 8 ohms on that one speaker. (+ to - and + to - on each coil)

3. If you wire just one voice coil it will give you 4 ohms on that one speaker. (+ and - from one coil)

Once you figured out how to wire each speaker, you can decide how you want to wire them together to get the desired impedance to your amp.

1. 4 ohm load - Use the 8 ohm configuration above (2) then wire them in parallel.

2. 2 ohm load - Use the 4 ohm configuration above (3) then wire them in parallel.

3. 1 ohm load - Use the 2 ohm configuration above (1) then wire them in parallel. That would be: + to + to + to + on all of your coils and - to - to - to - on the same coils. The + side hooked up to our amps + side and the - side hooked up to the - side of your amp.

I would recommend the 1 ohm load to get the most out of your amp. Give a holler if you need more help.

Originally Posted by AudioXtreme

I know alot has changed but the math and physics for hooking up speakers is still pretty much the same. Here's the impedances for wiring just one speaker. Just repeat the wiring for the other speaker to get a matched pair.

1. If you wire both coils in parallel on one speaker it will give you a 2 ohm load. (+ to + and - to -)

2. If you wire each coil in series it will give you 8 ohms on that one speaker. (+ to - and + to - on each coil)

3. If you wire just one voice coil it will give you 4 ohms on that one speaker. (+ and - from one coil)

Once you figured out how to wire each speaker, you can decide how you want to wire them together to get the desired impedance to your amp.

1. 4 ohm load - Use the 8 ohm configuration above (2) then wire them in parallel.

2. 2 ohm load - Use the 4 ohm configuration above (3) then wire them in parallel.

3. 1 ohm load - Use the 2 ohm configuration above (1) then wire them in parallel. That would be: + to + to + to + on all of your coils and - to - to - to - on the same coils. The + side hooked up to our amps + side and the - side hooked up to the - side of your amp.

I would recommend the 1 ohm load to get the most out of your amp. Give a holler if you need more help.

I did exactly as you suggested for 1 ohm and everything is working well. Thanks for the response!

Originally Posted by AudioXtreme

I know alot has changed but the math and physics for hooking up speakers is still pretty much the same. Here's the impedances for wiring just one speaker. Just repeat the wiring for the other speaker to get a matched pair.

1. If you wire both coils in parallel on one speaker it will give you a 2 ohm load. (+ to + and - to -)

2. If you wire each coil in series it will give you 8 ohms on that one speaker. (+ to - and + to - on each coil)

3. If you wire just one voice coil it will give you 4 ohms on that one speaker. (+ and - from one coil)

Once you figured out how to wire each speaker, you can decide how you want to wire them together to get the desired impedance to your amp.

1. 4 ohm load - Use the 8 ohm configuration above (2) then wire them in parallel.

2. 2 ohm load - Use the 4 ohm configuration above (3) then wire them in parallel.

3. 1 ohm load - Use the 2 ohm configuration above (1) then wire them in parallel. That would be: + to + to + to + on all of your coils and - to - to - to - on the same coils. The + side hooked up to our amps + side and the - side hooked up to the - side of your amp.

I would recommend the 1 ohm load to get the most out of your amp. Give a holler if you need more help.

Doing this would successfully blow your subs. They are rated at 600W RMS each total. Your sending 2500 Watts to two subs that can only handle 1200 Watts together. Turn up your bass and its a recipe for disaster. At very least be carefull.

PS Despite what many say it is very stressful on the sub to only wire one coil, its like pushing 60-70% of the power from 50% the inputs.

Originally Posted by badam

Doing this would successfully blow your subs. They are rated at 600W RMS each total. Your sending 2500 Watts to two subs that can only handle 1200 Watts together. Turn up your bass and its a recipe for disaster. At very least be carefull.

PS Despite what many say it is very stressful on the sub to only wire one coil, its like pushing 60-70% of the power from 50% the inputs.

Well now, would i be better off if i wired them at 4 ohms??????? What would that look like? There is no doubt that he will turn them up very loud as soon as they are through their break in period...

Chill, the amp is rated at 2500w peak. It's 1250w RMS @ 1ohm.

Keep each voice coil wired parallel for a 1ohm load. That means all your +'s go to the + on the amp and all the -'s go to the - on the amp.

And only using one voice coil when you have two working coils is pretty silly. So don't do it.

I'm sure those subs will take 600w with no problem. It's all about setting the gains properly. With the amp you are using, you will be ok.

Originally Posted by HyperZulu

Chill, the amp is rated at 2500w peak. It's 1250w RMS @ 1ohm.

Keep each voice coil wired parallel for a 1ohm load. That means all your +'s go to the + on the amp and all the -'s go to the - on the amp.

And only using one voice coil when you have two working coils is pretty silly. So don't do it.

I'm sure those subs will take 600w with no problem. It's all about setting the gains properly. With the amp you are using, you will be ok.

Refer to first post. Those are rms watts...

You're being totally mislead, I think. Just going by what the manual is showing, it says the amp has two 20a fuses to protect its circuitry.

At best you have 2 x 20a x 14.4v = 576w. If the manual is wrong, then sorry. You can figure out the math based on that formula and get an idea of what your amp is generating. For reference though, I have a 1200w amp with 4 x 30a fuses. So, it at least protects up to 1500w if you do 4 x 30 x 12.5 which is the standard car battery voltage.

Amplifier internals should be able to withstand some abuse, but if they put two 20a fuses to protect the internals, the amp will never be able to generate anything over 1kw without blowing its fuses.

And no, it's not a good idea to buy bigger maxi fuses. I'm just saying... don't worry about blowing a couple of Resonant Engineering subs. I've put 600w daily for two years on a $60 Pioneer sub. I set the gains appropriately and the speaker is still perfect and sitting in my living room right now doing home theater work.

Originally Posted by HyperZulu

You're being totally mislead, I think. Just going by what the manual is showing, it says the amp has two 20a fuses to protect its circuitry.

At best you have 2 x 20a x 14.4v = 576w. If the manual is wrong, then sorry. You can figure out the math based on that formula and get an idea of what your amp is generating. For reference though, I have a 1200w amp with 4 x 30a fuses. So, it at least protects up to 1500w if you do 4 x 30 x 12.5 which is the standard car battery voltage.

Amplifier internals should be able to withstand some abuse, but if they put two 20a fuses to protect the internals, the amp will never be able to generate anything over 1kw without blowing its fuses.

And no, it's not a good idea to buy bigger maxi fuses. I'm just saying... don't worry about blowing a couple of Resonant Engineering subs. I've put 600w daily for two years on a $60 Pioneer sub. I set the gains appropriately and the speaker is still perfect and sitting in my living room right now doing home theater work.

So from what i am hearing you say, Quantum Audio has handed me bs in their amp ratings for this unit???? So where does that leave me in wiring these speakers properly????????

You still run the wiring the same way, all in parallel. I'm sure the amp will handle a 1ohm load, but it just won't give you 2500w like they made you believe. You might get 300w a piece at full tilt. Should be ok I guess. Only one way to find out.

Not all car audio manufacturers follow very ethical standards when it comes to marketing and spec'ing their equipment. There isnt much you can do about it except to do as much homework as possible.