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Thread: Can the pop from my sound card damage my subwoofer?

  1. #1
    Low Bitrate
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    60

    Can the pop from my sound card damage my subwoofer?

    I have a usb sound card because my pc does not have any expansion slots. When windows activates the sound card I hear a loud thump from my subwoofer. I decided to watch the thump and was surprised to see how far the speaker cone actually moved. My subwoofer is rated at 300 RMS/1100 peak and my current amp only puts out about 125 RMS/250 peak but I will be upgrading my amp with an amp that is 380 rms/760 peak.
    So my question is can this thump damage my subwoofer?
    Oh and just because I know someone will bring it up, I understand that I will need to adjust the amp*edit*meant to say keep the volume low *edit* since its RMS is rated higher then the subwoofer.

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate
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    1. RMS = Root Mean Square - generally, if talking about equipment that isn't utter crap, RMS will be your TRUE power rating - Peak is a load of bollocks.

    2. In car audio (and PA), it is considered normal practice to use an amp that is rated for double the power of the speakers it's running. This is to account for Acoustic Impedance - the lower frequency something is, the lower the impedance, the lower the impedance, the harder the amp is working, etc.
    That's why whenever you see that impedance on a speaker (4Ohm generally in car audio), it's 4 Ohms impedance at a frequency of 1kHz.

    3. Yes, it can. Not saying it WILL, but it's definately possible, and it does happen. Standard procedure with audio equipment is that to prevent the "pop", the amplifier is ALWAYS the last thing to turn on, and the first thing to turn off.

    Set up a 555 Timer (I think) like most people on here seem to, and allow a delay before the amp turns itself on.


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  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate rijndael's Avatar
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    Apr 2007
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    the above poster is right...
    Yes, it can. Not saying it WILL, but it's definately possible, and it does happen.
    there is a computer program called AMPCTRL (search for it on the forums here). the way that works is you connect a small gauged wire to pin 4 on your serial port (the DTR pin) and from there to your remote in on your amplifier...voila...no more pop. the program shoots a signal via your DTR pin at 12v or whatever it is to your amp to turn on....therefor, it only turns on after your soundcard is initaited, and before your comp turns off, it shuts off the amp first.
    Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
    Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
    Subwoofer: removed
    Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
    Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
    Carputer: Removed for tablet install

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