Right. PC is at line level. If your sound card provides equalizer (which it ought to), you will probably be okay.
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im probably jumping in here a little late, and bugbyte is right, no preamp is needed.
one thing i would look at to help you make an informed decision is "The Art of Bulding a Computer Transport"....google it. I know you arent into the whole audiophile thing, but it will give you an idea as to how far PC's have come compared to high-end hi-fi equipment (as well as maybe even help you decide on certain components and how to keep EMI at a minimum). EMI is electromagnetic interference if you didnt already know that....but im sure you did.
anyways...if you are worried about the connections to your amplifier (as that sales-rep supposedly said it sounds like crap), you can just get a quality y-splitter 3.5mm jack to RCA (usually around 24 bucks for 3 feet..ill do a search for one and post it for you here...i use one from Stinger, and it definately sounds better than monster cable did) and keep it clear of all power cables/grounding cables and your VGA cable (energy bleed which causes interference in your cable).
someone else probably responded since bug's last response, so im gonna go search for a y-splitter that you wont have to worry about...if you do end up going this route![]()
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...er+SPI336.html this is very similar to the one i have...the only difference being this one is 6 feet instead of 3 and the 3.5mm jack on mine is straight, not an L. tell that rep to "shove-it"![]()
Trouble deciding on car speakers? Clicky Clicky
My Myspace page (view my pics for carputer worklog...needs updated)
Speakers: DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3 Link
Subwoofer: removed
Amplifier#1 (Front Stage): DLS Ultimate A4
Amplifier#2 (Sub) removed
You do realize, that the S/PDIF digital audio format COMPRESSES the signal?
Even the TOSLINK optical interface uses compressed data.
Some of the earlier TOSLINK equipment (not PC's) used raw PCM audio data, but almost everyone now follows the IEC 61937 S/PDIF compression format...
With that said, a pure digital signal thru TOSLINK would be an option in the noisey car...the TOSLINK won't pick up any EMI at all.
If he is thinking about the compressed music medium- he's right BUT the same goes for mp3 car stereos. I am sure he is thinking about standard line-level out ran, say, 6+ feet to your car stereo.
Whenever you are running a low level input over a distance, especially in a car- the connection is subject to mutual coupling. AC leakage from your alternator, fuel pumps, and car wiring can all contribute to unwanted noises.
I got around this 4+ years ago easily. I used a USB based Sound Blaster card that I located to the rear of my headunit. Since the audio is purely and inarguably digital on its way to said headunit- there was no audible interference of any kind. From my USB sound blaster, I connected a hefty set of 4-5" RCA connections. Therefor, the vulnerable analog output was only subject to interference in that small portion. The end result was very pleasing...although I still wish I could have used that digital out!
Hope this helps.
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What I'm saying is, whatever is coming out of the S/PDIF or TOSLINK, whether it MP3 or lossless or 24-bit DVD-A, the signal is getting compressed...it's a built-in standard of the interface, as it was designed mainly to handle multi channel, 7.1 data...
For the short runs that we all use analog RCA's, they aren't very suseptible, especially if all the equipment is in the trunk...
A lengthy run like head unit-to-trunk will always be an issue though...
Personally, I still think analog is still the ideal choice...
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