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Reply With QuoteThis software works great and it's free... http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/index.php
I would like to build a ported subwoofer enclosure box. There subs are going to be 12" subs, not sure on the subs yet, either, use the existing 12" P1's that I have or Im going to get a pair of Kicker L7's. I know how to build a box, what I dont know is what type of configuration to make the ports in the box and what proper dimensions to build it.
This software works great and it's free
First step is to decide for sure which subs to use. Then a little bit of googling will come up with some very informative articles about box building and how to calculate the proper size for the box.
I'd like to ask; why is it that everyone that puts a sub in a car put in two speakers? Its double box volume, and only 3dB more punch at the same sound quality.
Spend more money on a single element box instead and look at dB/W.
Why is it, do you think, that there is not a single dual sub for home theater systems to buy? Is space more important in your home than in your car?
If I were to use two elements I would build a 4'th order box to acctually get better bass and not just two speakers.
Sorry for this heavy remark, but to me a dual box indicates that the builder does not know what he is doing...
My car installation mp3car thread "showing off project"
Isnt bass about moving air. and having 2 subs especially 2 L7's, moves a hell of alot of air. I dont see how 2 subs are not much of a noticeable difference.Originally Posted by bes51659
It does not show how to build a box where the back is set on an angle. I dont want a square box.
The whole box size to element ratio is all based on how much air the bass elements can move.
No need to build a bigger box than the elements can draw.
There's alot of tweaks and turns i bass cases.... My personal favorite is a smaler case with 4 x 8" elements where every element have it's own "air space". (four chambers that are seald of from each other).
This gives a nice and low base, and delivers a good punch if needed.
The big bonus is that the elements can move realy fast... So if you, like me, like to listen to fast music... the bass stays clean even at high BMPs
To get the idea of what I'm talking of...
Try play children of Boodoom on a 15" bass
I listen to everything from rap to classic rock to hard rock. So it need to sound good for all. I will build a box, If I go with 2 subs, ittl be ported and each sub will be sealed off from the other.
The program will tell you how much volume you need and you can build the box in whatever shape you want. It doesn't have to be square.
It is about moving air. Two subs will shift the double amount of air. Double volume is 3dB. If you want to know how much 3dB is, let someone increase volume and say "stop" when you can tell that the volume has indeed increesed. That is 3dB.
On the other hand. Some elements will give 91dB and others 94dB per Watt and save you the space of one bass.
Apart from moving air, it is also about transient responce, dampfactor,and what kind of music you are listening too. That will dictate what box type you need. Like a bass-reflex is not very good when you have very low frequencies. There is no control of the cone below its turn over frequency, but you get better bass just over that freq.
2 more cents: why do people parallell connect elements down to 1 ohm and get fladder-bass without punch what so ever?!? And monster cables to avoid to high loss? In case you do not prefer brummm to punch.
Well, if I'm made you think and not automatically do what every body else does, I'm happy :-)
My car installation mp3car thread "showing off project"
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