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Thread: Does size matter on a SUB?

  1. #21
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano View Post
    They didn't. Keep watching after the credits are over......he didn't go anywhere.
    OMG, who the f$%k reads credits, lol...... It was cool to see him in Xmen Origins: Wolverine
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano View Post
    They didn't. Keep watching after the credits are over......he didn't go anywhere.
    is not so much where but who, so technically he is dead (a different actor)

  3. #23
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    i dont know..

    since he technically moved his conciousness over, is he really dead? People consider being alive, the fact that you have concious thought...

    So in that thinking, he isn't dead at all :P

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FC3S View Post
    i dont know..

    since he technically moved his conciousness over, is he really dead? People consider being alive, the fact that you have concious thought...

    So in that thinking, he isn't dead at all :P
    i meant killed as in the fact that the actor will be replaced but the character is still the same

  5. #25
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    I personally run an alpine type R 12" sub in a qlogic sealed box. I must say that for a prefab box it sounds pretty decent. I can get good rolling bass when needed and nice tight punchy bass when I want it. If I were to take the time to build a better custom box for it, I know it would sound even better.
    This is the end of my post

  6. #26
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    500W RMS is a LOT of power for a sub. I have a PT cruiser, 1 10" JL 10w3v3 in a sealed box - with a claimed "300W" - measured was more like 140W (thats power input to the amp with a 60hz sinewave on the input at -6db) - and I have the subs input turned down to about 25% of the total available power - it's WAY too loud sometimes. 500W RMS (if its a real 500 watts) will get you heard a mile away. It's all in the quality of the amp - as pointed out above.



    Again, no. The subwoofer has almost NOTHING to do with the sound it produces. Most of the sound comes from the type of power you put into it and the enclosure it's in. As long as you get a proper amplifier and don't cheap out on a crappy Sony/Jensen product then it'll make any subwoofer sound better. That 10 inch subwoofer could sound much louder, deeper and clearer than any 12 inch powered by a bad amplifier.
    Subjective. IMHO subs sound different from woofer to woofer in the same line - manufacturing differences, tolerances, and all. Most folks won't hear it.

    my 10" is much louder than my buddies ghetto 15" IB setup with 750W going to it. I haven't measured his, but I bet its 300W+ real power. The clarity of the sound is much greater too.



    well think what sound is, sound is the vibration of air, that's why kicker started making squared subs because a square has more area than a circle, so in theory it should be louder, but as you said when you increase the size you also change the frequency.
    And what a terrible, terrible idea that was. The breakup on those subs..... OMG.


    It's OK to mix sub brands with your other speakers.

    Single 12" sealed should do fine.

    However, if you are really concerned about the space, and can afford an extra driver, go for iso-barik box. It's more complex to build, less loud, and some subs are no good for it, but it cuts box size in half. Read more here.
    I'm not a fan of the isobaric design. 1 10" in a sealed box can be 0.8 cuft (depending on the speaker and the design of your system, crossover points, the cabin, etc).1 12" could be happy in a single cubic foot.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobdole369 View Post
    I have a PT cruiser
    I'm sure cabin gain is a factor in your setup. He has way more bigger car. But single 12" is a way to go, just make sure you pick a driver that does not need a big box.

    Quote Originally Posted by bobdole369 View Post
    my 10" is much louder than my buddies ghetto 15" IB setup with 750W going to it. I haven't measured his, but I bet its 300W+ real power. The clarity of the sound is much greater too.
    JL 10w3v3 is a nice sub

  8. #28
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danbert View Post
    I personally run an alpine type R 12" sub in a qlogic sealed box. I must say that for a prefab box it sounds pretty decent. I can get good rolling bass when needed and nice tight punchy bass when I want it. If I were to take the time to build a better custom box for it, I know it would sound even better.
    See, big thing about my install though is that when you look into it, it doesnt look like anything is there. Meaning its all hidden and consealed. I wonder if that will be an issue with the Type-R. I will have a box, but it will most likely have a fiberglass skin to match the interior.

    Quote Originally Posted by bobdole369 View Post
    500W RMS is a LOT of power for a sub. I have a PT cruiser, 1 10" JL 10w3v3 in a sealed box - with a claimed "300W" - measured was more like 140W (thats power input to the amp with a 60hz sinewave on the input at -6db) - and I have the subs input turned down to about 25% of the total available power - it's WAY too loud sometimes. 500W RMS (if its a real 500 watts) will get you heard a mile away. It's all in the quality of the amp - as pointed out above.

    I'm not a fan of the isobaric design. 1 10" in a sealed box can be 0.8 cuft (depending on the speaker and the design of your system, crossover points, the cabin, etc).1 12" could be happy in a single cubic foot.
    Its 600 watts but RMS is rated at 500. Alot of people say the PDX really does put out that power. Now Kimota uses the PDX, but uses different speakers, I think his RMS on the door speakers is 150. His system sounds amazinggggggggggg. He told me though that sound will be louder because I drive a gaint box. So I decided to go with a 100 RMS per door rating speaker and amp. He said that I should only use component in the front, but I decided to use component in all the doors. Is that overkill? The only speaker that wont be component is the center speaker, which is a 2 way speaker.

    I like the isobaric design, problem is I think it will look ugly in my install. I want it all hidden, nice and neat. I want people to look and not notice anything.

    Quote Originally Posted by digital79 View Post
    I'm sure cabin gain is a factor in your setup. He has way more bigger car. But single 12" is a way to go, just make sure you pick a driver that does not need a big box.


    JL 10w3v3 is a nice sub
    Kimota told me that also. Its one big box and should get alot of sound. Im a newbie, what do you mean by driver? The AMP?
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Kimota told me that also. Its one big box and should get alot of sound. Im a newbie, what do you mean by driver? The AMP?
    Subwoofer.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    See, big thing about my install though is that when you look into it, it doesnt look like anything is there. Meaning its all hidden and consealed. I wonder if that will be an issue with the Type-R. I will have a box, but it will most likely have a fiberglass skin to match the interior.
    Mine is in the back of a ford explorer under the pull over cover. I cant do a custom install on this vehicle as it is a company car that will be replaced with in a year.
    This is the end of my post

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