Thread: Amp protect light on :(

Remember, bridging and parallel are two seperate things...

Bridging is when you combine the amps load over 2 channels...
i.e. a typical, single sub bridged would look like sub + to LEFT + amp connector, sub - to RIGHT - amp connector...
Bridged over 2 channels...

Paralleling is combining more than one speaker to a channel...speaker A and speaker B both connected together to the amps left channel for example...
This HEAVILY loads the amp (making the output louder) but also raising thermal issues with the amp, which could lead to load protecting.

SoundMan is right...you should run then in series to spare your amp any harm. Of course doing so, you'll also decrease the output.

Your best solution is another amp for your extra speakers...

ok, my amp is bridgable and my sub seems to be working fine. Has done even with old HU.

I will put the others speakers in serial and see what volume difference it makes. I can always increase the gain for them. If it is too much of a decrease, I will think of another amp, but I don't know how much more power my alternator can handle :S.

Thanks for your help guys, I will post back with the results.

Originally Posted by jellymonster

I have a blaster bl-1000 amp.

I have the amp plugged into battery through 30A fuse. Sub bridged with 2X250W ports. The 6X9's and 5.25"s are plugged into remaining 2 250W ports.
PC is plugged into battery and ground is in amp ground port (also grounded to chasis).
The amp turns on via PC remote (m4-atx).

Anymore info needed please state

Thanks
JM

A 'Blaster' amp? Never heard of 'em...

So your running a sub AND 4 sets of drivers off this one amp?? And it's fused at 30A? I must of missed that reply...

Each pair of CHANNELS on my TRU amps are fused at 30A (4 channels) and they are rated for 'just' 65 watts output. The power line from the battery (4awg) to these amps is fused at 80A.
I have a very hard time believing this Blaster is a 1000 watt amp...it would likely melt at 30A fuse if it were!

I would buy another amp just for the sub, then seperate your drivers into their own channel on the Blaster, and all should be fine.

The amp can be 450watt at max with a 30A fuse, based on 15v current.
This would be true if you had a class-d amp... well.. kinda true.. the best amps can give you as much as 98% effect.

For a normal class-b amp, you would have something like 300watt

the "blaster" is probably 1000w PEAK...

But, to answer your question...
It looks like your overpowering the amp, so that it goes hot, and shutsdown. Even thought the casing of the amp is not hot enough to burn you, the components can be to hot... especially if they are of the cheaper type.

Whey buying an amp, "getting what you pay for" is a true statement..

I really don't want to buy a new amp!!!
As I said before I don't want to put any more strain on my alternator.

This is the amp: http://www.caraudiowarehouse.co.uk/p...-BL-1000G.html

I have now got my sub bridge over 2 ports. And the 6x9's connected in series in another port. And finally the 5.25" plugged in series into the remaining port.
The sound sounds a bit wierd now :S
I've tried messing around with the low/high pass knobs and switches, but not knowing what I doing, I think I made it worse :S.
Can anyone tell me what to set the switches and knobs to to get the best (or better) sound? There are 2 rows of switches and knobs, both rows contain, a gain, bass boost switch 0db/6db/12db, LPF, LPF/All/HPF switch, HPS.
I think that one row is for my sub, and the other row is for the other speakers :S

Thanks

Originally Posted by Crinos

The amp can be 450watt at max with a 30A fuse, based on 15v current.
This would be true if you had a class-d amp... well.. kinda true.. the best amps can give you as much as 98% effect.

For a normal class-b amp, you would have something like 300watt

the "blaster" is probably 1000w PEAK...

But, to answer your question...
It looks like your overpowering the amp, so that it goes hot, and shutsdown. Even thought the casing of the amp is not hot enough to burn you, the components can be to hot... especially if they are of the cheaper type.

Whey buying an amp, "getting what you pay for" is a true statement..

Ok, in that case, until I get another amp or something, I'll disconnect the 5.25" speakers. It was running fine without them.

Thanks

from the way you explained the new setup, it sounds like you have the 5-1/4's on one channel, and the 6x9's on another channel, so for instance: your front speakers will only produce the left channel, and rear speakers will only produce the right channel. this will produce a weird sounding system. the original setup was ok in the way that you had one 5 1/4 and one 6x9 on each channel, but needed to be setup in series to maintain the proper resistance on the amp. the parrallel setup dropped the resistance too low, and caused the amp to shut off.

Jelly, what else do you have in/on your car that would stress your alternator any more?

under normal circumstances, one or 2 amps, each with a 30 amp fuse is not going to put extreme stress on any electrical components unless: the gains are all the way up for all channels, you have the volume all the way up, and/or are using a very thin(higher gauge #)/cheap amp wiring kit.

for the knobs, it really depends on the overall install as to how they would be set. For your installation, start with these settings and work from there:

sub switch should be set to LP(stands for low pass--only allows lower frequencies to pass through)if there is a freq knob, turn that to around 80-100 hz for starters.
6x9+5-1/4 speaker switch should be set to HP(stands for high pass-- only allows higher freq. through) if there is a freq knob, turn that to around 80-100 hz for starters.

the bass boost is not recomended, and should be left at '0' as it only boosts one freq. for the sub (extremely simplified, i could make a couple of pages about how bass boost can ruin a system, but help others).

Ok thanks soundman.
I did originally have it set up so the left speakers in left amp port and vica versa. But it made it sound wierd and I thought it was because of the different type/power speakers in series. Shows how much I know lol.

I will put it back to how it was in series, I still haven't sorted out my other problem of having the left side really quiet :S yet so atm there is pretty much no sound on the left.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...left-side.html

and as the the amp switches and knob stuff. I will give that a go when I've re-wired everything.

Btw, is there an easy way to check the polarity of the speaker wires? it's easy for the 6x9's and sub because they are in the boot. But the 5.25"s are in the front doors. I think I know which way they are, but just want to double check. Either way this is not the reason for the wierd sound because I've tried them many ways, even disabling them all together.

The only power consuming things in my car are the amp (1000W peak, 30A) and my PC (M4-ATX, 300W peak, 25A)

Thanks again
JM

Yay, I have sorted out the dodgy sound . It was actually from when I updated the sound driver because of my other post, it had put it onto some wierd speaker setting environment. So I put it back and the quality is better than before thanks to your advice soundman. Don't suppose there is anywhere that I can read that explains in more detail why bass boost is no good, I think that I will find it interesting .

Thanks again soundman, hopefully when I get my other problem sorted, it will sound like the business :P