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Thread: Amp protect light on :(

  1. #21
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    ...I'm sure your FAR from stressing out your altenator with just that amp...lol
    I have a 400W Alpine for my sub, and two TRU T4.65's for my two-ways, AND a dualcore, water cooled PC...
    With the 'Big 3', I don't even get any dimming at idle under heavy 'load'...

    Soundman has some good advice...

    I'd also like to add, re: "the bass boost"...if you WANT more bass, then add more subs/amps...
    For a well rounded system, a single, quality, 10 or 12" sub is ample for 30 to 80Hz frequencies in a car...

  2. #22
    Constant Bitrate
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    haha, ok wungun, I blame my Dad the mechanic for getting me worried about my alternator. I can't really compare to your system as you probably have a better alternator.
    But I bet bass boost is alot cheaper than a new amp and sub lol.

    Naa my bass is plenty now

    I would like to see your water cooling though, have you got any pictures?

    Thanks

  3. #23
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellymonster View Post
    haha, ok wungun, I blame my Dad the mechanic for getting me worried about my alternator. I can't really compare to your system as you probably have a better alternator.
    But I bet bass boost is alot cheaper than a new amp and sub lol.

    Naa my bass is plenty now

    I would like to see your water cooling though, have you got any pictures?

    Thanks
    There is this...
    WuNgUn PIC'S-Water cooled car PC 95% done!

    A lot of images have been moved though, so they won't show up...

    (I have a job interview Monday and I wanted to create a picture/portfolio of my handy work, so those images got moved to a new 'album')

  4. #24
    Constant Bitrate
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    Dammit, protection light came on today on the way to and from work.

    Looks like putting the speakers into series didn't work.

    Dunno if this is relevant, but after changing the HU, i went from the high level input to low level input.

    What I might do is dis-connect the 5.25"s because it was working fine before I plugged them in and changed the HU. This will also test if I'm overpowering it i guess.

    I dunno if any of you guys can answer this, but how much power do you think I could pull from my alternator? I have a X reg UK edition fiat brava.

    Thanks

  5. #25
    Constant Bitrate
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    Very sure that the amp is overheating now. Thinking back to when it didn't do this, it was winter/spring. Now being in the prime of summer, it would make sense that it will be hotter. Also, this morning on the way to work, the weather was fairly cool and didn't die on me. However, on the way back, it was very hot and did die .

    Thanks for your help everyone,my solution is going to be to get another, more expensive amp, and when i get more money replace my current cheap amp with the same one.

    Anyone got any ideas of a good value amp?
    Also what I need to look for in buying one?

  6. #26
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    look for something name brand, and make sure that it is easy to find a full spec sheet-- that includes a rms wattage per channel, both in stereo mode, and bridged mode. this is the quickest way to determine the quality, becasue low quality amps usually don't include this info.

    the more info you can find on the numbers, usually, the better.
    whatever amp you narrow it down to, just do a search for magazine reviews, and see what unbiased sources have to say about it.

  7. #27
    Constant Bitrate thewizard's Avatar
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    Brother you will never ever resolve all of your issues until you break down and buy a second amplifier. Also there are very few bargain amplifiers out there that will carry a 2ohm load for very long without heat and shutdown issues (and yes that is what you have). You need to run your speakers at 4ohms with one channel per driver, and pick up a bass amp to drive your sub. You will not believe the difference in your overall system when you have done this. Also be aware that you are very close to killing your existing amplifier as it has already gone into protect several times. It is roasting itself every time it happens and the internal damage has already began. Two moderate amplifiers will not hurt your electrical system if you run an adequately sized power wire.

  8. #28
    Constant Bitrate
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    Ok, by bass amp, is this just a mono amp?
    I was looking at this one:
    http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/8101.html
    or
    http://www.kenwoodusa.com/car_entert...iers/kac-8104d

    There is about 200W difference and about £20 price wise. Is this ok with my KFC-W3011 (edit) sub. I figured it peaks at 1200W so it would but you can tell I'm not great at this :P.

    One thing that I couldn't find is how many channels they have, if multiple, will I need to bridge them or are the 500W per channel or am I talking crap again.

    If anyone has any other suggestions, please link . Around that price mark is what I'm looking at, and I've been carrying on with my kenwood theme but I really don't mind changing brand (as long as it's not Blaster lol)

    Thanks

  9. #29
    Constant Bitrate thewizard's Avatar
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    I can't find any info on your sub (at least in English anyhow). Is it single or dual voice coil and how many ohms is it? Either amp that you have listed would likely drive your sub just fine but post the specs anyway and I'll have a closer look, at which time we can also decide how it should be wired and so on for best performance.

  10. #30
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    Just realised why you couldn't find anything, I said the wrong sub. it is actually the KFC-W3011.

    Here are a few sites I found:
    http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/speakers01/kfcw3011.asp
    and
    http://www.alphacaraudio.co.uk/ViewP...0Box&Cat_Code=
    just without the amp (which I believe is the KAC-8104D amp).

    Thanks for your help, for the sake of £20 I might just go for the more powerful one if you think it will be ok.

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