firstly im new here so hello everyone
as the title states i have a problem
firstly my set up
0guage from batt to 80a fuse to 10a fuse to head unit and a 2guage to a distro block powering 3 amps (through 4 guage wire)
1 4 channel and 2 2 channels
then 4 guage to another distro then 2guage to a hole that used to house a clip for the trim in the side of the boot (metal is thin, maybe this is the problem?).
the remote from the HU goes into a 2 channel then piggybacks from there to the other 2 amps.
i put in 6 new speakers into the car (well 4 and a set of splits)
and my 4 channel to run them (the 2 channels are not connected to the subs right now because the boxes are out being carpeted and ported but the amps still power up)
anyways today i turned the system on to start tuneing.
played some music and slowly increased volume to hear for distortion (amps gains were at 0 no boosting in either head unit or the amp and high passes were set at about 100htz)
i got fairly high (say 80-90% percent, didnt check because i quickly turned down the volume because of what happenend)
everything was working fine, then one of the 15a fuses in the 4 channel blew so i quickly turned down the volume and sound came back on so i started to increase again even slower and it cut out earlyer as t he other 2 15a fuses blew.
i figured i just went too high for the amp so i replaced (had a slight spark as i put in the 1st fuse even though the amp was off due to head unit being off)
and powered up. and the protection was on straight away. checked fuses and theyre all blown.
i decided there must have been a short somewhere so i disconnected the speakers and rcas . disconnected the power from the amp. replaced fuses then reconnected the power ground and remote to the amp.
powred up and still no volume. checked fuses and again they were blown. (this is the most amount of fuses ive blown in my life.
so im pretty stumped now
i thought it might be an impedence issue but wihout the speakers connected then that shouldnt be an issue.
(which brings up a 2nd question
the speakers are as follows
2 6 inch JL audio splits (on the box says 4 ohms so i assume this includes both the tweeter and the woofer) in front doors
2 alpine 2 way type S (4ohms) also in front doors. (these are connected in parallel to the JL crossover. so thats channel 1 from amp into jl crossover then from there to the alpines. the outputs on the xovers go to the appropriate woofer and tweeter)
then the rear speakers are connected directly to the rear channels of the amp
can anyone please help me.
tomorrow ill get a new ground and connect the remote directly to the 4 channel and see what happens but id rather get more info before blowing my last 3 fuses and the risk of more damage to my amp.
Does it blow fuses with only power, ground and remote-no speakers? If yes, internal to the amp, if no then check your install for shorted speakers. BTW, it is not a good idea to connect multiple speakers through a passive crossover if you change the designed impedance load.
First, welcome to the wonderful world of car computing, and system integration!
on to your problem-- could you provide us with a couple more details on the what type of amp and its model #? also, I am a little confused about how the speakers are hooked up you said that the type s' are connected to the jl crossover?
[DISCLAIMER: this is assuming that your amp is a 4 channel, 4 ohm stable amp]
the type s' should be connected to the amp (never to the jl crossover), on all 4 channels, and the jl's should be connected in series with one of the left/right pairs on the amp, to create a 8 ohm load on the amp for those 2 channels(it will be quieter, but will work).
here's why: originally, when the you had the type s' on one pair, and the type s and jlon the other pair, you had them in parrallel, creating a 2 ohm load, and causing the amp to think that there was a short somewhere.
there is also the possiblity that you really do have a short somewhere, or a bad ground that is causing the issue, but the primary issue that i see from your post is the parallel speaker hookup.
edit: I started my reply when there were no replies, so some of what i have posted might have already been covered.
sorry if i wasnt clear
the amp is a response digital 4 channel amp stable to 2 ohms or 4 ohms bridged
the alpines work in parallel to the jl splits they are not on the output of the crossover
thanks for the replies so far
just really trying to figure out what ive done wrong
would turning the volume up too high (even with gains all the way down) be the reason it happened or was it just because of a grounding problem.
or something else
o want to fix this before i bugger up the replacement amp
It sounds like you fried your amp, most likely due to an inadequate ground. Your ground wires should ALWAYS be the same size (or larger) as your power wire and should be connected to the chassis (or back to the battery). If you can get to a seat or seat belt bolt or to something else that bolts directly to the chassis then that should suffice. Grounding to just sheet metal on a uni-body vehicle is bad news for a heavy 12 volt load.
Data911 M5 system
RR and iGo8PC
Pioneer head unit
Pioneer DEQ-9200 digital processor
Phoenix gold line drivers
Ultimate and Visonik amplifiers
SMT 3 way active front stage
Digital Design sub woofers
3 runs of 0 gauge wire
got my replacement amp today. just waiting for my sound proofing to come in tomorrow before i rip apart my boot again and relocate the ground.
just a few questions before anything else goes wrong.
on the box for the jl audio box it says 4ohms impedence. is that the impedence of the the woofer and tweeter together or what?
like does it mean 4 ohms for the crossover or for the woofer?
just trying to make sure i dont try and run the new amp under 2 ohms
also ive been mapping out my subs in winisd and wondered would it be a good idea to tune each box to a different frequency so they both peak at different frequencies or would it be better to have them 'roll off' together and be consistent and back each other up?
both subs are the same and in different boxes (1 on each side of the boot)
also with my ground if i cant get the new location within a foot would it be a beter idea to get thicker ground wire to compensate the extra length? (btw yes i have upgraded the ground from alt to chassis and from battery to chassis. im not a total noob with car audio)
the easiest way to figure out the jl components would be to use a ohm meter, but i believe that the 4 ohm stament should be corrct for both teh tweeter, mid, and crossover.
for the subs, it is best to have them setup exactly the same. winisd wont show it, but you will get cancelation of certain frequencies(and amplify others) if you set them up differently. if you are planning on a ported system, make sure you run a high pass right below the port freq.
winisd is a great program, but it can never model the exact wave that will be produced in your car(this would cost thousands to do). just remember, it only models the sub/box interactions.