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Thread: Can regular 0 gauge wire work?

  1. #141
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    Don't just spend the money. Do what I said with the multimeter, that's a sure shot way to check the alternator.

    What kind of battery do you have in your install?
    The stock battery.... I think its a Bosch.
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  2. #142
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    I think its the alternator. I was answering another post about someones system that would not turn on because their car does not put out 12 volts. I was explaining that I had to lower mine to 11.5 inorder to get my Car PC setup to activate, and even then I had to put my engine into high revs the first time I try to get it to turn on, otherwise I get a low voltage error. The battery is fairly new, bought it in 2008, so that leaves the alternator. With me driving a truck the ALT should put out at least 14V and the fact that I have to do so much, means it isnt putting that out anymore. We will not really know until I get a volt meter and test. I cant believe I forgot about that issue.
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  3. #143
    Constant Bitrate thewizard's Avatar
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    I get 14.4 volts at idle with the stereo and computer running, however not fully cranked up. You have the same 130amp alternator so I would have to agree that yours in pouched, either that or you have a short somewhere in your electrical system which you could easily diagnose with a multimeter.
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  4. #144
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thewizard View Post
    I get 14.4 volts at idle with the stereo and computer running, however not fully cranked up. You have the same 130amp alternator so I would have to agree that yours in pouched, either that or you have a short somewhere in your electrical system which you could easily diagnose with a multimeter.
    Is there a specific type of multimeter I have to buy? Also what do I test? From the battery posts, but any place else?
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  5. #145
    FLAC
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    You've been working on an install for how long and don't have a multimeter?

    Just get a digital multimeter. All we need it for is DC volts. I've never seen one without it.

    You can test it from the battery posts if you want to, but that's hard to do when driving... any unregulated positive/negative line in the car works (any line other than a power supply's output). I would make a cigarette lighter hookup of sorts for ease.
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  6. #146
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    You've been working on an install for how long and don't have a multimeter?

    Just get a digital multimeter. All we need it for is DC volts. I've never seen one without it.

    You can test it from the battery posts if you want to, but that's hard to do when driving... any unregulated positive/negative line in the car works (any line other than a power supply's output). I would make a cigarette lighter hookup of sorts for ease.
    LOL, I know..... I have never needed one. Only thing I usually check is polarity, and that I do with a LED bulb, wire and a 9V battery, lol.

    Anyways, it is the alternator, I am sure of it. I think maybe the past CAR PC units have killed or damamged it. I am going to upgrade the alternator when I have some money.

    I decided to do some experimenting with the wires. I really wanted to add a engine to chassis ground, so where the old engine to battery line was, I put it from there to the chassis, then from a alternator bolt to the battery went another wire. I then ran a new chassis to battery and down graded the old battery to chassis to a 4 gauge wire. The car doesnt like it, lights dim alot, so I am going to change it back. Only thing I will keep is the engine to chassis, the bolt is big enough to fit both engine to battery and to chassis. As for the chassis to battery is this a good ground point? Its part of the chassis, but not sure if its a good area?



    Also here is the point from the engine to the chassis. i plan to add the engine to battery also back on. That should clear things up.

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  7. #147
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    OK, I haven't kept this thread up to speed, but i did change the wiring back to stock, or should I say the way Dodge had it, but with 0 guage. I did not want to over complicate things. I finally got the new alternator in, but I have some concerns.

    This question is for "thewizard" since he has the same engine as me, if anyone else knows, your welcome to answer. The new alternator has its own power regulation and exciter built into it. Turns out that Dodge though, was retarded and had to complicate things by making the ECU control the power regulation. My question is, how do I prevent the ECU from throwing up error codes since it will think the alternator is now missing? I know the old alternator had 2 wires, and the new alternator has 3 wires via a special cable. I do not know what the wires of the old one do, but I know it connects to the ECU. On the new unit, one wire is for ignition, the second is for the battery light, and the third is for constant 12V. I do not need any of these do I?
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