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Thread: Can regular 0 gauge wire work?

  1. #11
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekl0wn View Post
    If you can find out the manufacturer of the welding lead wire at your local welding shop, you can find out what type of wire it is... Welding lead is the ONLY other type of wire I'd suggest contemplating.

    However, my best suggestion would be to check with KnuKonceptz... I've used them before, and know tons of other people from another forum who use them regularly, and have never had an issue. (I've only used their mobile stuff wire/distro blocks/fuse holders) Personally, I'm sold on their products.
    I went to the audioshop and bought 0 gauge wire for about $7.50 a foot. I know thats expensive, but I only bought enought to do one section. The cable was from a brand called Stinger, its thick as h3ll!!!!!! Is stinger a good brand? I notice online its still fairly pricey. I do like the knukonceptz wire, its only 1.75 a foot also. I guess the rest of the run (20 feet) will come from them. Thanx for the link.

    Here is a link to the Stinger cable. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

    Quote Originally Posted by thewizard View Post
    Welding wire works very well and is the cheapest feasible option. I would never even consider using household wire in a vehicle, it is a completely different animal that will not adequately carry a heavy DC load regardless of how much of it you run. It is designed to carry high voltage rather than low voltage, and high voltage loads operate with lower amperage, the opposite of a car audio system. In my particular case my system is capable of pulling an unbelievable amount of amperage, and the 3 runs of "0" gauge is to help keep the voltage drop to a minimum. Voltage drop is an amplifiers worst enemy, it will cause the amp to heat up faster, cause noise in your system, cause other electronic and electrical parts of the vehicle to fail sooner, and last but not least,,, cause your amplifier to make less power than the amplifier was rated to produce.
    Do you think I will honestly need more then one run with my setup? I really dont think so.
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  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate thewizard's Avatar
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    Nope, you will not need more than one run for your setup. I still like to play with mine once in a while, hence the massive overkill.
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    3 runs of 0 gauge wire

  3. #13
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thewizard View Post
    Nope, you will not need more than one run for your setup. I still like to play with mine once in a while, hence the massive overkill.
    Do you have pix of your setup? Im curious to see that. Also I see that KnuKonceptz wire is Aluminum clad (90%) and copper (10%). The stinger is 100% copper. Is copper better?
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  4. #14
    Low Bitrate jake789's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Also I see that KnuKonceptz wire is Aluminum clad (90%) and copper (10%). The stinger is 100% copper. Is copper better?
    Copper is better, but at half the price the CCA is often tempting. Another problem that people don't realize is that CCA has to be oversized to carry the same current as Copper (OFC). By oversizing the wire you loose insulation material which is very important when it comes to high power applications. And when installing underneath your car, the extra insulation in OFC will allow it to take more abuse than CCA would. Did you ever think of using some pvc to make a protective conduit under your car?

    This pic shows CCA vs OFC, both are 0ga.


  5. #15
    Low Bitrate jake789's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    So your saying the more strands i get the lower EMI issues I will have? I know with my previous install I had to use GLIs on all my audio channels. I am hoping that me running high grade speaker wire, and being carful how I run electrical will eliminate the need for GLIs.
    If you are worried about noise, its a good idea to also have a run of ground cable along with your power cable (same size for both). This will allow you to have a common ground point which is a good way to assure you don't have any ground loops.

    I believe bad grounding leads to more engine noise than EMI from the power cable.

  6. #16
    Low Bitrate jake789's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Do you have pix of your setup? Im curious to see that
    x2 where is your build log?

  7. #17
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Anytime wire is installed in the engine bay or under the car you should use split loom.

    But to answer your original question, yes 0 gauge from home D will work. If it can run a couple TV's, a stove, washer, dryer, microwave, etc at the same time than it can certainly run some audio amps!

    when using 0 gauge in a house it's rated for 120v 150a or 18,000w. since you will be using 12v, theoretically you can run a max of 1500 amps

    Also taken from http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm

    Stranded vs. Solid Wire

    This one is a bit of a mind-boggler, but it's important. When electricity flows through a wire, it mostly flows on the surface of the wire, not through the middle. This effect is more pronounced on high frequency AC than it is on DC or low frequency AC. This means that a "wire" of a given size that made up of many smaller strands can carry more power than a solid wire - simply because the stranded wire has more surface area. This is one reason why battery cables in your car and welding cables are made up of many very fine strands of smaller wire - it allows them to safely carry more power with less of that power being dissipated as heat. However, this "skin" effect is not as pronounced in a typical 12V DC automotive application, and the wire and cable used there is stranded for flexibility reasons.

    When looking at a chart or description of wire capacity, take note of whether it is referring to stranded or solid wire - some charts may not specify but instead assume a default based on the typical wiring used in a given application. For example, almost all automotive wiring is stranded while almost all home wiring is solid. For most applications, flexibility or the lack thereof will be more important, but for very high frequency AC applications, stranded wire might be a requirement.
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  8. #18
    Vendor - Qube colin's Avatar
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    Okay here's the best information I can give you:

    - that AC effect, that's some old guy's findings -- possibly Einstein but I cant be sure. It's the skin effect. Its also what causes tasers and whatnot to not kill you sort of. Basically, high frequencies can flow along the skin of something -- including your body. In a DC application, who cares. More strands = more surface area = more power. You want that.

    - Knukoncepts: excellent cabling. "Oversizing" cables does NOT! make them the same gauge! A gauge is a size of the diameter of the cable -- most people take it to mean the outside layer but really its about the inside. If you have super under-stuffed wire hidden in a 10-awg insulation, the wire itself is not 10awg! There's stereo audio sites that show this well: there was a power cord with 28awg and a similar sized cord with like 16awg.

    That being said, KnuKoncepts does not sell actual 0-awg wire. It does NOT fit into a typical 0awg connector! I have to bring the cable with me to stores to measure to get connectors. I found that a 2/0 works excellent.

    I got the CCA. Copper is the best, but CCA at 0awg can transmit 250A -- listed right on the KnuKoncepts site. 250x14.4 = 3600 watts.

    AHA found the site and the image:

    http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

    Read it all, you will thank me. Promise.

  9. #19
    Vendor - Qube colin's Avatar
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    Oh and its not the EMI that causes the noise. What happens is that cheaper materials and cheaper cables (IE: CCA compared to copper) cause higher resistance per foot. That resistance is power loss as heat.

    That may sound really basic if you have a background in electronics, but just in case, had to say it. Anyway, if you run 20feet of 4awg copper and 20feet of 4awg CCA, the CCA will have more resistance and therefore transmit less power.

    If you over-shoot your cable sizing, IE using 0awg where 2awg would suffice, youll be fine. If you buy KnuKoncepts, you're getting 2/0awg, which is way thicker, and MORE than suitable. The resistance in the cable makes the amps see a resistance to ground, which is more than the body of the car. This causes the ground loop because the grounds are not at equal potentials.

    Stinger cable:

    OVERRATED!! Read the site I posted and you'll understand. Stinger uses their name to sell the cable at a higher price than they need to. Get the 99.9% OFC cable from KnuKoncepts for half the price and twice the quality. Ive used Stinger cable before, it works, no lie, but it's not worth the money is what Im saying.

  10. #20
    Low Bitrate jake789's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blk02si View Post
    when using 0 gauge in a house it's rated for 120v 150a or 18,000w. since you will be using 12v, theoretically you can run a max of 1500 amps
    Nope, 150-170a is the limit no matter what voltage you are running. The capacity of a wire is based off the current and not the power. This is because the amount of current is directly related to the amount of heat released by the wire.

    I've never really been able to figure out how car audio companies rate their 0ga at 250-300a. I would have to guess that they use a more expensive, higher temp insulation than normal house (home depot) wiring.

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