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Thread: Can regular 0 gauge wire work?

  1. #21
    Low Bitrate jake789's Avatar
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    The stinger pro wire is not that bad. I used it for my big 3. I also have knu fleks for my main runs and really the stuff is nearly identical. The fleks is slightly more flexible cause it has more strands, but the inner diameters are the same as far as I could tell.

    But with stinger at $4 per foot, and knu fleks at $3.40 per foot, I would go with knu.

  2. #22
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    here is car audio magazines article on OFC vs. CCA: decide for yourself if it is worth it(i don't feel that CCA is worth it in the long run).

    http://www.caraudiomag.com/specialfe...ire/index.html

    and zach, just to clarify, could you post a pic of some similar wire that you were considering getting from HD? when i picture 0 ga AC wire, i am picturing a cable w/ about 6-10 strands of solid 10ga copper, which would be horrible to work with, compared to finer stranded wire.

  3. #23
    Vendor - Qube colin's Avatar
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    From that link:

    That being said, if you compensate for the increased resistance in the CCA cable by going to the next larger gauge size, you'll probably end up with equal or maybe even less resistance than the smaller gauge pure copper.
    Its cheaper. You buy the KnuKonceptz wire that is "overstuffed" and you get a perfect cable.

  4. #24
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jake789 View Post
    Copper is better, but at half the price the CCA is often tempting. Another problem that people don't realize is that CCA has to be oversized to carry the same current as Copper (OFC). By oversizing the wire you loose insulation material which is very important when it comes to high power applications. And when installing underneath your car, the extra insulation in OFC will allow it to take more abuse than CCA would. Did you ever think of using some pvc to make a protective conduit under your car?

    This pic shows CCA vs OFC, both are 0ga.

    I understand, that sounds logical. So I will just stay with the stinger brand then. I do have to say though, its very thick, I wasn't expecting that.

    Quote Originally Posted by jake789 View Post
    If you are worried about noise, its a good idea to also have a run of ground cable along with your power cable (same size for both). This will allow you to have a common ground point which is a good way to assure you don't have any ground loops.

    I believe bad grounding leads to more engine noise than EMI from the power cable.
    Ive always been told that running a long ground is actually bad. Thats the reason that automakers make the ground points closest to the devices. All the documents I read say that a ground for AMPS should be less then 3 feet.
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  5. #25
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colin View Post
    Okay here's the best information I can give you:

    - that AC effect, that's some old guy's findings -- possibly Einstein but I cant be sure. It's the skin effect. Its also what causes tasers and whatnot to not kill you sort of. Basically, high frequencies can flow along the skin of something -- including your body. In a DC application, who cares. More strands = more surface area = more power. You want that.

    - Knukoncepts: excellent cabling. "Oversizing" cables does NOT! make them the same gauge! A gauge is a size of the diameter of the cable -- most people take it to mean the outside layer but really its about the inside. If you have super under-stuffed wire hidden in a 10-awg insulation, the wire itself is not 10awg! There's stereo audio sites that show this well: there was a power cord with 28awg and a similar sized cord with like 16awg.

    That being said, KnuKoncepts does not sell actual 0-awg wire. It does NOT fit into a typical 0awg connector! I have to bring the cable with me to stores to measure to get connectors. I found that a 2/0 works excellent.

    I got the CCA. Copper is the best, but CCA at 0awg can transmit 250A -- listed right on the KnuKoncepts site. 250x14.4 = 3600 watts.

    AHA found the site and the image:

    http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

    Read it all, you will thank me. Promise.
    I hear you on gauges. I went to PepBoys and wired all my speakers with 12 gauge from Lightning Audio (sub company of Rockford fosegate). Its OFC cable and is thick. It was a bit pricey so I decided to order some cable from EBAY for the rest of the run. It came from Pyramid Power Audio. When I received it, I was like what the f%^k, this is almost as thin as my stock wire. In the end I sent it back and just spend the money for the Lightning Audio cable.

    Quote Originally Posted by colin View Post
    Oh and its not the EMI that causes the noise. What happens is that cheaper materials and cheaper cables (IE: CCA compared to copper) cause higher resistance per foot. That resistance is power loss as heat.

    That may sound really basic if you have a background in electronics, but just in case, had to say it. Anyway, if you run 20feet of 4awg copper and 20feet of 4awg CCA, the CCA will have more resistance and therefore transmit less power.

    If you over-shoot your cable sizing, IE using 0awg where 2awg would suffice, youll be fine. If you buy KnuKoncepts, you're getting 2/0awg, which is way thicker, and MORE than suitable. The resistance in the cable makes the amps see a resistance to ground, which is more than the body of the car. This causes the ground loop because the grounds are not at equal potentials.

    Stinger cable:

    OVERRATED!! Read the site I posted and you'll understand. Stinger uses their name to sell the cable at a higher price than they need to. Get the 99.9% OFC cable from KnuKoncepts for half the price and twice the quality. Ive used Stinger cable before, it works, no lie, but it's not worth the money is what Im saying.
    Let me ask a retarded question, what if your ground is thicker then the 12V cable? Will that cause a ground loop? I am hopeful that this new wiring setup with power and speakers will kill all these issues. I didnt see a 99.9 OFC from KnuKoncepts, but I also didn't spend to much time researching the site. I'll go back and check. Only reason I ask about the ground, is because in the old setup, I had a 8 gauge branching from the 4 Gauge to a distro which went to the Car PC. The ground wire however, was 4 gauge. I have now replaced the 8 gauge with 4 gauge since more screens and what not are being added. In the back, where all the AMPS were, I had all 4 gauge, ground and 12V, but I was using a ground point from the original manufacturer, should I make a new ground point instead? For the Car PC, I made a new ground point, which is about 6 inches.
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  6. #26
    Vendor - Qube colin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Let me ask a retarded question, what if your ground is thicker then the 12V cable? Will that cause a ground loop? I am hopeful that this new wiring setup with power and speakers will kill all these issues. I didnt see a 99.9 OFC from KnuKoncepts, but I also didn't spend to much time researching the site. I'll go back and check. Only reason I ask about the ground, is because in the old setup, I had a 8 gauge branching from the 4 Gauge to a distro which went to the Car PC. The ground wire however, was 4 gauge. I have now replaced the 8 gauge with 4 gauge since more screens and what not are being added. In the back, where all the AMPS were, I had all 4 gauge, ground and 12V, but I was using a ground point from the original manufacturer, should I make a new ground point instead? For the Car PC, I made a new ground point, which is about 6 inches.
    The bigger the ground, the better. When you use your CAR as a ground, you think that counts as 4-awg? The metal there is thick and the surface area is HUGE! To answer your "retarded question", the size of the ground doesn't matter (if it's too big I mean). In fact, if it's bigger, there is less resistance in the wire, and therefore a BETTER system. Less likely to have ground loops.

    KnuKoncepts: Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Red Power Wire features 5145 Tinned Strands of Pure Oxygen Free Copper and a new UltraFleks Matte PVC Jacket. Our new jacket allows for improved flexibiltiy and maintains exceptional resistance to abrasion, oil, and extreme temperatures (-40 to 105 C). Capable of loads over 300A. This product can be used in Marine applications.

  7. #27
    Constant Bitrate thewizard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jake789 View Post
    x2 where is your build log?
    I can put some pictures and what not together and post them I suppose. I have some pics of the dual DD setup, just have to snap some new ones with the current setup. Give me a day two.
    Data911 M5 system
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    Phoenix gold line drivers
    Ultimate and Visonik amplifiers
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    Digital Design sub woofers
    3 runs of 0 gauge wire

  8. #28
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thewizard View Post
    I can put some pictures and what not together and post them I suppose. I have some pics of the dual DD setup, just have to snap some new ones with the current setup. Give me a day two.
    Since you have a Dodge also, Im curious to see how you upgraded your "Big 3", and what not. Do I upgrade that with 0 gauge also? Its so f%^king thick. I do know I have to upgrade the Alternator too. I plan on upgrading to a 220 Amp alternator. I think that will be enough, do you wizard? Did you have to upgrade yours? If yes, what did you upgrade it with and what engine do you have? I have the 4.7L Magnum V8. I cant seem to find anything over 220 amps for this engine.
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  9. #29
    Constant Bitrate thewizard's Avatar
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    I did all of the big 3 with 0 gauge wire as well. I have the same motor that you have and am using the factory 130 amp alt with a stock battery (big bugger). The lights do dim a little when the system is cranked but not bad enough to make me blow dough on another alt. I don't have it cranked that loud very often, and the multiple runs of wire help with that considerably. The factory battery wiring was only about 8 gauge and that was a huge problem, rectified when I did the big 3. The only issue that I have is I cannot run my sytem at all without the engine running, not a problem for me because I am always on the road anyway. I will get some pics up over the next couple of days.
    Data911 M5 system
    RR and iGo8PC
    Pioneer head unit
    Pioneer DEQ-9200 digital processor
    Phoenix gold line drivers
    Ultimate and Visonik amplifiers
    SMT 3 way active front stage
    Digital Design sub woofers
    3 runs of 0 gauge wire

  10. #30
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thewizard View Post
    I did all of the big 3 with 0 gauge wire as well. I have the same motor that you have and am using the factory 130 amp alt with a stock battery (big bugger). The lights do dim a little when the system is cranked but not bad enough to make me blow dough on another alt. I don't have it cranked that loud very often, and the multiple runs of wire help with that considerably. The factory battery wiring was only about 8 gauge and that was a huge problem, rectified when I did the big 3. The only issue that I have is I cannot run my sytem at all without the engine running, not a problem for me because I am always on the road anyway. I will get some pics up over the next couple of days.
    OMFG, I swear I am glad you popped into this thread. I have been having major power issues since I installed the carpc. I have always thought the wiring was way to small for a big V8, especially mine that has another A/C system in the back, that I know eats up power. So basically any of the 8 gauge is ripped out and replaced with 0 gauge? I have had the issue with not being able to run the car pc with no engine for awhile, and sometimes I have to sit there and rev the engine to get the car pc to turn on. I guess because of the $h!++y factory wire. I think I am going to go ahead and work on that first, and in the future upgrade the alt. Is it hard to do? I mean like once you get to the fuse area and or parts that intersect with each other?
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