I was hoping I didn't have to rewire my whole car since I moved out to an apartment now and I don't have the garage anymore. If you are rewiring your car anyway, do you want to give these possible solutions a try? Or if you already have tried any of it, please let us know which one didn't work. I tried a couple but it didn't work out for me.
-Ground PC and AMP to the same point
-Mute MIC or Line-In
-Make sure you separate power cables from audio cables
-Ground PC chassis?
-If you have a metal PC case, make sure it doesn't touch any metal in the car
-Keep ground cable short
Let us know if any of these work or don't work. BTW, I'm using the OPUS 150 PSU.
done all of that except the mic mute.
the m-2 is notorious for noise issues, esp. when it is mounted in close proximity to the rest of the computer components, but should not be be the cause of the data stream interferance. if possible, you could try to shield or movethe m2 a little farther away from the other components.
it goes against every audio installers recomendations, but i am starting to plan for rewiring my system, for both power and ground going straight to/from the battery(thats right, i will not be using the chassis for ground) and running all of my stereo, and computer stuff off of this. so far, it is one of the best ways i can come up with to completly isolate the entertainment electronics from any car ecu issues.
If your going to do that there is a wrong and right way to do it. The wrong way is both lines being the same guage. The right way is if your using 4 guage power use 2 guage ground. Always step the ground wire up one size bigger than your power. The reasoning for this is the resistance you are going to create on that ground wire being so long can cause a fire or heat up your components to the point of destruction. I always explain it to people like this. The power is a thick milkshake and your wire is the straw. If you have a bigger straw the easier it is suck up the milkshake, too small of a straw and your face turns red and head wants to explode. Your head is the equipment struggling to get the current it needs. The ground is the same way only the straw is full of milkshake and your blowing it back in the cup. Bigger the straw easier to blow the milkshake out, too small and same result as before.
thanks for the reminder! i almost completely forgot about it- i knew that is how it had to be, and i remember thinking that i had to do it that way, but it just completly slipped my mind as i started looking at wire (trying to keep the overall cost down)...
Upgrade all your cables on your battery too to make it more efficiant. If your discharging all that current directly into the battery it needs to release it just as fast or your battery will get real hot and maybe swell.
i couldnt find specific technical details of M2-ATX PSU, there are a few points you might want to concider. even though most people wouldnt recommend grounding to chasis, i would. it always worked for me.
make sure both amp and PC grounded to the same ground, chasis/batt.
make sure you grounded the PC case to the same ground as amp, PC.
now heres the tricky part... the ground wire leaving the PSU to Mobo, attach another wire to this connection and ground it with the chasis.
the key is to make sure every component in your setup gets the same grounding including the mobo.
for example, i used a laptop, with inverter. the laptop PSU has a 3 wire AC input. by shorting 2 grounds (120V AC and 12V DC) i got rid of all hissing and whining noises, the idea is to heave the mobo and amp on the same ground along with all other components.
an easy/somewhat costly sollution for all audio problems would be to use fiber optic audio signal. since the the regular audio cables work on analog signal it can get interferance on the way to the amp. digital signal will not get any interferance. but i have no clue how much an amp with an optical input would cost ...
Why would the ground need to be larger than the 12v positive?
Originally Posted by CabeSipes
Current is constant, if the setup draws 10amps on the pos it returns 10amps on the ground.
Because discharged current is just as it sounds, garbage. The amps are the same but the component your powering will dictate how quickly and clean the ground will be discharged. The reason for the rule of thumb in grounding electronics no longer than 18 inces is because of that reason. Your power can be as long as you want it to be because the flow of electrons is uninterupted from the battery to the component. If you make the ground just as long you will notice your components will get very warm very quickly. That is because of the resistance on the line because now it is no longer an uninterupted flow, its relying on the component to discharge the power smoothly which wont happen. So its not the amperage that is the problem, it is the impedence (resistance) that will rise upon length.
You will also notice a voltage drop sometimes because of the length. If it cant discharge it fast enough it cant take it in unless it has an unregulated power supply which will then run the risk of damage.