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Thread: No Harness with 3.5mm Mini Jacks?

  1. #11
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    I have a 2007. If I could just get my hands on a wiring diagram, I would be confident enough to put in a cheap amp and get this thing built.

    Any idea where to find one for the 2007?

    DJ

  2. #12
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    The easiest way is to just use a small amp in place of the stereo. The pc will go directly to the amp and then to your speakers. In a MX5 you only need a 2 channel amp for the fronts, the headrest speakers are a joke and completely destroy any imaging you might have had.

    In this case, the cables you would need are mini-jack to RCA to go from PC to amp. Then some speaker wire to go from the amp to the door speakers. You could run the speaker wires from the amp to the factory harness, but it will probably be too much power for the 22awg factory wiring or the factory speakers.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by djkinney View Post
    I have a 2007. If I could just get my hands on a wiring diagram, I would be confident enough to put in a cheap amp and get this thing built.

    Any idea where to find one for the 2007?

    DJ
    Does it have BOSE? It might make it harder. I would suggest bypassing the factory wiring all together as I mentioned above. With a PC and amp the only factory wires you "might" reuse would be the speakers, but I wouldn't suggest factory speaker wires for an aftermarket amp, unless it was less than 20 watts per channel. Even that may be cutting it close.

  4. #14
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    Thanks black_mamba...good input. No Bose...But...

    I am not an audiophile. Sometimes, I don't even listen to music. I like talk radio and NPR and such. So my goal is to get all of the speakers working (even head speakers) and to just use the factory wiring and harness to minimize splicing.

    I know I'm weird, but please believe that I really don't need it to be any higher quality than the factory setup. I didn't even WANT to change the factory stereo, I just need the space for the touchscreen. So the stereo is at the bottom of my list, as long as it works.

    So, what kind of small amp can I get that will be less than 20w per channel?

  5. #15
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Here is Crutchield's selection of amps <60w. I bet you can find something decent that fits your budget.
    If sheer size is an issue, you might look into amps designed for motorcycles.
    A pit of poking on Crutchfield found this Marine Amplifier rated at 15w/channel: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_693MZ10...00.html?tp=714

    None of these should be wired up using the headunit's wiring, though.
    I understand you're hesitant to get into doing additional wiring on your car, but you're at a point where you really need to, at least for an amplifier.

    Have you considered relocating your headunit, or possibly an aftermarket one?
    You can purchase a ready-made harness and easily extend it to somewhere else like the glove box or armrest.
    With a setup like this, you can use the headunit as your "amplifier", and still have your screen in your dash.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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  6. #16
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    Thank you DarquePervert. I like that idea of still using the factory radio, but I really can't stress enough that there is no space for it. Let me attach two pictures. One is the interior of the car (a different car but the same model-No Bose, but the form factor is exactly the same) and the other is the double din dash replacement I was looking at from Crutchfield. If you can imagine a way to manipulate the equipment, let me know. I think the factory head unit is actually pretty big and unwieldy.

    You also said that "None of these should be wired using the head units wiring." What do you mean? I assumed I would remove the head unit and would splice right into the wires that had been going to the head unit outputs.

    Again, I am in the dark because I still have no wiring diagram.

    DJ
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  7. #17
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    Does the factory deck have an AUX in? Another thing you may consider is mounting the touchscreen seperate from the dash then use the AUX and leave everything factory, audio-wise. Even if it doesn't have a physical AUX in, if it has CD changer controls for a trunk-mounted changer then it usually has a DIN connector on the back of the factory deck that can be converted to AUX in. I don't have any experience with the factory decks from your model, you can check the miata.net forums to see if anyone has done this.

    If you can get AUX in then you can mount the touchscreen on a gooseneck bolted the the transmission tunnel, or fab some other metal bracket. I've considered this before, and it has some advantages. The screen can be made to quick disconnect from the gooseneck, or the gooseneck from the mount, so you can hide it and everything looks factory. Being on a goosneck also means that the screen angle is easily adjusted for varying sun locaton, hard to ingnore in a convertible. The downside is it won't look very factory, of course. And it's a bit more hassle everytime you get in/out of the car. If you do this, make sure you get a gooseneck that's not flimsy and has enough reach to where you want to put it.

  8. #18
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djkinney View Post
    Thank you DarquePervert. I like that idea of still using the factory radio, but I really can't stress enough that there is no space for it. Let me attach two pictures. One is the interior of the car (a different car but the same model-No Bose, but the form factor is exactly the same) and the other is the double din dash replacement I was looking at from Crutchfield. If you can imagine a way to manipulate the equipment, let me know. I think the factory head unit is actually pretty big and unwieldy.
    I see a couple options:
    1. Get a sinle-DIN aftermarket headunit and stow it away somewhere out of sight.
      You can relocate the headunit to the glove box, an armrest console or under the seat, even. You just have to be creative about it.
      You can then use the double-DIN dash kit and a screen.
    2. Get a single-DIN aftermarket headunit and a single-DIN flip-out touchscreen, using the double-DIN dash kit.
      The flip-out screens aren't the greatest build quality, but they do work, and may be a viable solution for you.


    You also said that "None of these should be wired using the head units wiring." What do you mean? I assumed I would remove the head unit and would splice right into the wires that had been going to the head unit outputs.
    The small 15w Marine amp might do OK being powered by the factory headunit harness.
    The other amps listed should have their own power line run directly to the battery.

    I think it's time to cue 2K1Toaster's artwork:


    The components aren't the same, but the concept is spot-on.


    Again, I am in the dark because I still have no wiring diagram.

    DJ
    You might consider starting one, then.
    A wiring diagram will help to visualize how everything connects together, and can also help plan how much wire you need for specific connections.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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  9. #19
    Variable Bitrate csfile's Avatar
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    I was waiting for 2K1Toaster's diagram...it should be in the FAQ

  10. #20
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    If I had a proper diagram, I would know how many watts per channel/speaker are in the factory setup. Instead of just guessing.

    As for the screen mounting, no. It must be done in the dash. Some kind of robo arm just is not acceptable for the aesthetics.

    Commence frustration:

    I just can't believe that it is this complicated. I have been building computers for years. Hooking up entertainment centers and stereo systems. But nothing in those worlds even approaches this level of homebrew solder-and-splice nonsense. I just can't believe there isn't an easier way.

    PC -> Power boost -> already installed speaker wires -> speakers.

    Seems so easy.

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