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Thread: Subwoofer issues: Windows Tests Come Up Fine, Sub Doesn't Work Otherwise.

  1. #1
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    Subwoofer issues: Windows Tests Come Up Fine, Sub Doesn't Work Otherwise.

    Hey all.

    I am running Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OS on my CarPC. For my sound setup, I have the Alpine M500 amp hooked into my 12" Type-R sub, and I also have a kicker 4channel amp connected to all of my speakers. These are connected into my Soundblaster X-Fi 5.1 USB sound card. Mechanically, all of these devices are working. I have gone through the audio settings in Windows 7 to test out all the speakers and the sub, and all of them are functioning. If I click to test out the sub, I hear the sub kick in the trunk.

    That seems to be that the only time the subwoofer works, when I'm in that test. I have tried to get the subwoofer to work in iTunes and through Centrafuse, and I have yet to hear the sub work at all when I am trying to play any other music.

    When you go through Windows to "manage audio devices," I see two icons show up. One for Speakers, which seems to be linked to the SoundBlaster 5.1, and then I see another icon right below that says "Digital Audio Devices" (or something of the sort), which also seems to be linked to the SoundBlaster 5.1. I can configure the device when I click on the one that says "Speakers," but I cannot configure the device when I try to click on the one that says "Digital Audio Devices," as the option to do so is grayed out.

    If anyone can think of any good ideas to solve this problem, that would be nice. I know the hardware works, something just seems to be going on with the software side of things. Thanks.

  2. #2
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    sometimes, there is a setting in the soundcards control panel to enable the sub, but otherwise, the sub output is reserved for multi-channel encoded audio-- ie: 2.1, 4.1, 5.1 surround.. being that most audio files are only 2 ch, the sub won't work. so the easiest solution to this problem is to split the 2 ch output to each amp, and use it's onboard crossover.

    the complex solution is to learn audio manipulation-- using a program like audiomuch.

  3. #3
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    So basically, I need software that will combine the two channels and output them into the sub? And how does audiomuch work? Will it do what I'm looking for if I invest the time into learning it? Or is there other software thats easier to manage?

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    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    audiomulch is $180, and is not what i would consider easy to configure.. really, a external x-over, or using the onboard x-overs are going to be much easier/cheaper to use.

    audiomulch is a audio manipulation program that was designed for music DJ's, and for sound effects people(some great demo's on youtube). but the carpc guys like me use it for extreme control-- using this program, plus a couple others, and a decent sound card, i am able to get audio manipulation controls similar to dsp's like the $800 audison bit-one..

    the whole reason i got into using it was because i was at a car audio store getting ready to drop nearly $3-4k on a headunit+ dsp, that i was going to immediately max out on features, and run into hardware limitations again-- the realization then hit me that i could spend half that and have unlimited possibilities.. so i walked out, and started this journey...


    i have a clarion mcd360 for my ipod input, as my system has been converted for full-active, so i can't just input the signal into the amps..

    right now, they are going for $90 on sonicelectronix..

    if you really decide that you want to go the AM route--this is a how-to that i did a while ago on getting a basic working setup:
    http://www.mp3car.com/high-end-solut...udiomulch.html
    Last edited by soundman98; 03-06-2011 at 09:15 PM.

  5. #5
    Maximum Bitrate crooper's Avatar
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    Or use a sound card and/or driver that includes bass redirection. This is the reason why I've always used a Creative X-Fi sound card in my CarPC.

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