Thread: Best Way To Boost Voltage From Onboard Soundcard? - Linedriver?

if you still want to use the windows volume control, don't use the cl-rlc. it requires that the external volume controller be plugged in, so it would be more of a pain then other line drivers..

i used to use a 3 channel version of the pheonix gold one you linked to-- it worked great-- until i blew it up...(it doesn't like +12v across the negative rca connections)


but it sounds like there is another issue at play here. i have a mrp-f300 for my mids/highs, and it barely gets warm... and i believe my gain is around 1/2..

check that the speaker resistance is correct(this amp is 2 ohm stable, so you you need at least that at every channel), and that no wires are shorted for starters..

I have four SPR-17C Alpine type R, which are 4ohm, and they are bridged on the amp to get the 2ohm power. I've had this setup for awhile now and haven't had issues. But I built a system for someone recently with a Kenwood headunit and a Polk Audio PA660 amp, and the amount of volume puts mine to shame. Which makes me think it's time to upgrade

Originally Posted by we87

The sound is good with the gain on the amp at halfway, but when turned any higher I get alot of distortion and garbage. Also the 4 channel amp for the door speakers gets very hot when the music is loud. I assume because it is working hard to amplify the poor signal coming from the onboard soundcard.

Incorrect assumption here. The amp is not going to work harder with low signal voltage coming in, in fact it will work less because there is less gain. On the flip side, if you have too much gain going into the amp, you can overdrive the input stage of the amp and clip it before the output stage even gets a chance to amplify. In this situation it sounds like you have plenty of signal (which you should), but it doesn't go loud enough for your tastes and you are over-driving the amp with either a clipped signal going in (maybe too much equalizer boost), or you have the gains set too high. I wouldn't bother with a line driver. What does your EQ curve look like?

Your buddy's 4 channel amp is about the same power as yours, so there is some other outside factor you have not listed from your buddy's car. Maybe your buddy's speakers are more efficient, maybe he has more subwoofer/subwoofer power? Smaller car? More bass? more treble? Maybe his speaker placement is better. What is yours lacking that his has that you want?

What is a clipped signal? Like I said before I only use Centrafuse to equalize, and its using the onboard soundcard. I dont think this would qualify as too much equalizer boost?

My Car: Four Alpine Type R SPR-17C Door Speakers, on a Alpine MRP-F300 Amp (which has a line output for the other amp MRP-M500 for subwoofer 10w1v2-4), being fed by the onboard soundcard of the pc. All gains on the amplifiers are set a little passed halfway, call it 1 O Clock like on a watch.

Buddies Car: Four Pinoneer TS-A6872R door speakers, on a Polk Audio PA660 Amp, being fed by a Kenwood DNX-5120.

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That aside, am I understanding correctly that most people can use the onboard soundcard's output directly into an amp and the amp should do the rest as far as great sound quality?

Originally Posted by we87

My Car: Four Alpine Type R SPR-17C Door Speakers, on a Alpine MRP-F300 Amp (which has a line output for the other amp MRP-M500 for subwoofer 10w1v2-4), being fed by the onboard soundcard of the pc. All gains on the amplifiers are set a little passed halfway, call it 1 O Clock like on a watch.

Buddies Car: Four Pinoneer TS-A6872R door speakers, on a Polk Audio PA660 Amp, being fed by a Kenwood DNX-5120.

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So what you are saying is that your buddies apples, being carried in basket, by a blonde girl somehow taste different from your oranges in a bag being carried by an old man?

Just my 2¢ from 10+ years installing car audio. Take any one variable and you can compare systems. Any two and it's a crap shoot. Take every variable (speakers, amps, head units, vehicles) and everything will change. If you took all of his equipment and put it in your car, it would sound different than his.

i think i found your problem-- you said that you have 4-4ohm coaxial speakers that are bridged-- so you are using the amp as a 2ch amp right?

the amp is 2 ohm stable while using all four independent channels, but is only 4 ohm stable in bridged mode. when you connected a 2 ohm load bridged, this would cause the extreme heat, and some of the clipping issues your having-- your overworking the amp..

Originally Posted by soundman98

i think i found your problem-- you said that you have 4-4ohm coaxial speakers that are bridged-- so you are using the amp as a 2ch amp right?

the amp is 2 ohm stable while using all four independent channels, but is only 4 ohm stable in bridged mode. when you connected a 2 ohm load bridged, this would cause the extreme heat, and some of the clipping issues your having-- your overworking the amp..

That is correct. I hear a sound difference when I have them wired into separate channels (50x4 @ 4ohm) and then better at bridged, all four wired into two channels for 75x4 and 2ohm.

So, I should keep my 4 ohm speakers wired in separately?

yes.

some other better educated audio guru is going to need to confirm this(durwood?!?), but connecting them as 4 ohm speakers will also increase their sensitivity level, so you will get better quality audio when they are connected as 4 ohm loads.

Originally Posted by soundman98

yes.

some other better educated audio guru is going to need to confirm this(durwood?!?), but connecting them as 4 ohm speakers will also increase their sensitivity level, so you will get better quality audio when they are connected as 4 ohm loads.

Increasing sensitivity level means what exactly? Higher voltage? Less fluxuation inside the amp?

I connected them seperately and listened to them on the way home from work, and all I can really notice is on a a few particular songs when the volume is at its highest point, now I hear a little distortion when I didnt before at 2 ohms bridged.