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Thread: How to wire up my current system and what else do I need

  1. #11
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    Alright im getting this soundman I'm setting everything up for a test run hopefully today so I will be able to test the board. If the soundcard doesn't do what I want it to do, can I use a single external crossover to split the sound coming out the stereo (green) into low levels for my subs and mid levels for my other speakers? or do you need a crossover for the mids and another for the subs? Sorry pretty new to me.

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  2. #12
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross135 View Post
    Alright im getting this soundman I'm setting everything up for a test run hopefully today so I will be able to test the board. If the soundcard doesn't do what I want it to do, can I use a single external crossover to split the sound coming out the stereo (green) into low levels for my subs and mid levels for my other speakers? or do you need a crossover for the mids and another for the subs? Sorry pretty new to me.

    Blade fuses OldSpark Had glass ones.
    in such a small car i probably wouldn't even bother with rear speakers. if i were you id spend the money on a nicer set of component speakers for the front and then your one 12 in the trunk. (actually a single 10 in that car would kick hard)
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross135 View Post
    Alright im getting this soundman I'm setting everything up for a test run hopefully today so I will be able to test the board. If the soundcard doesn't do what I want it to do, can I use a single external crossover to split the sound coming out the stereo (green) into low levels for my subs and mid levels for my other speakers? or do you need a crossover for the mids and another for the subs? Sorry pretty new to me.
    i need to quit hitting backspace-- i had a whole post written up that nicely explained everything..

    i need to cut this one a little shorter..

    somethings to keep in mind:

    in general, many documents say that humans can hear sounds from 20Hz to 20,000Hz. also, many documents say that humans cannot tell the direction of sounds below 100Hz.

    in a car, these 'rules' can get heavily bent. there are many sharp/flat objects, and just as many hard, and soft objects-- all of which affect how the sound travels, and reflects in the car. so in many cases, you can 'hear' certain tones below 100Hz. technically, you are hearing reflections, or reverberations of those low frequency sounds, but the reflections still make the subs sound worse..


    so with that in mind:

    with your sub amp-- these are the settings i recommend to stick around:

    from left to right,

    the first being Bass boost: i recommend to leave this at 0. as the name implies, it boosts certain parts of the sub signal-- which can create the allusion that the subs sound better at certain points then they really are-- if set too high, this can damage your equipment.

    LPF: this is the control that blocks certain frequencies. i recommend that you set this somewhere between "70-100" there is no perfect setting, and you will need to play with this in the car. the goal is to get the subs to become 'invisible' meaning that you can hear the subs, but can't tell where their located..

    gain: this needs to be set as any gain control. i am not going to go over this in extreme detail, because there are plenty of how-to's online for this.

    and the switch-- ISF:

    this stands for InfraSonic Filter. this blocks the really low frequencies that many subs cannot play. i recommend at least 15Hz, but 25Hz is probably a better setting.



    for the 4ch amp, you will need to set the filter to HP-- to block all the low stuff the subs reproduce. and for the approximate settings, set it to the same Hz setting as the subs-- so where the subs leave off, the main speakers pick up the rest of the audio signal..

    Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx View Post
    in such a small car i probably wouldn't even bother with rear speakers. if i were you id spend the money on a nicer set of component speakers for the front and then your one 12 in the trunk. (actually a single 10 in that car would kick hard)
    +1. my current setup only has a component front+subs, and will much more realistic then a 4 speaker+sub setup. i suggest you try it this way before going with rear speakers-- you might be surprised!!

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