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Thread: Finding an amp with a digital input vs. Buying a sound processor vs. Good ol' Analog

  1. #21
    Raw Wave
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    Let's just say that that is what you missing my point refers to...

    And let's just say I was waiting for someone to suggest ADDING an analog to digital converter....
    Or maybe I can read minds.

    My apols if what I see as a clarification to a noise issue (induced or existing?) is seen as a argument or not understood.

    Over & out.

  2. #22
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    Alpine used to produce MRA-F350 Amps with Toslink input and 5.1 channel out. It's pretty cheap on ebay now, but you'll have to use AiNet capable HU or external AiNet controller like Ai10 (http://www.mp3car.com/car-audio/1286...solved-16.html) to turn it on and control the volume.

  3. #23
    Maximum Bitrate RAWPWR's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Or if you have room in your dash for ------> ALPINE IVA-W200 ---------Along with --------> Hifonics ZX5.1 (if you can find one)

    Hey but that's just my opinion.
    Last edited by RAWPWR; 04-19-2011 at 08:56 AM.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAWPWR View Post
    Or if you have room in your dash for ------> ALPINE IVA-W200 ---------Along with --------> Hifonics ZX5.1 (if you can find one)

    Hey but that's just my opinion.
    There's one major issue with third-party amps with digital input like Hifonics ZX5.1: some external interface is needed for main controls (volume, balance, bass level, etc). Without AiNet or similar bus you won't be able to adjust even volume from HU. Car PC allows to change the volume over Toslink/SPDIF, but it's wrong way as dynamic range and overall sound quality will be affected.

  5. #25
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    so were back at the begining lol.

    heres the 3 options OP listed

    amp with optical input:
    carPC>toslink>amp>speakers.(the only noise inducing connection is speaker wires)

    digital sound processor:
    carPC>3.5analog cable>sound processor> RCA>amp>speakers(now we got 3.5 cable+processor+RCA+speakerwires picking up noise and processor introducing errors into the signal while processing)

    analog? how exaclty is that?
    the headphone jack output of a soundcard is nowhere near 4 volts (2 volts max,maybe)
    this requres less processing and less wires but
    the signal is very low voltage( this is the reason for 4,5 and even 8 volt preouts on some decks) because the amp will have to amplify the signal more, along with the noise it picked up on the way.
    so you will have more noise with lower output signal.



    but still.
    it would be better in my opinion to mount the DAC as close to the amp as possible, and maybe have a solid(soldered connection from DAC's rca output to the amp board directly. shielded also.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldSpark View Post
    Let's just say that that is what you missing my point refers to...

    And let's just say I was waiting for someone to suggest ADDING an analog to digital converter....
    Or maybe I can read minds.

    My apols if what I see as a clarification to a noise issue (induced or existing?) is seen as a argument or not understood.

    Over & out.
    I am here to learn, so by all means please teach me if I am mistaken.

    What sense does taking a digital signal, convert it to analog (carPC output) then reconvert that analog back into a digital format, then have the amp reconvert it again to analog?
    Doesnt it seem simpler to just convert to analog once, & at the amp? Every component introduces a potential for adding noise, so keeping that list to a minimum should also be a priority.

    Option Ive been looking at is a line driver immediately at the soundcard output to minimize the weak output & boost it to an 8v signal for sending down the vehicle.

  7. #27
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    The big problem I'm seeing in my search for components is finding an amp with spdif input. A solution I found is to run spdif to a product called "miniAMP" (google that for more info) that can split it into 4 channels, I believe as a stand alone device, for $60. Since my amp will be in my trunk and I don't plan to put in a sub right away, I'm going with that in my trunk as well. At most, I'll have 3-4 feet of analog wiring before my amp. Due to the AINet issue surrounding Alpine amps, I think this may be among the best solution.

    Thoughts?


    -Ryven

    via iPhone

  8. #28
    Maximum Bitrate nasa's Avatar
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    Ryven,

    Why not just place a usb sound card next to your amp? Data from your computer to the sound card would be digital (and since it hasn't been turned into audio yet -- don't see how noise would apply) and you get the short distance to your amps...

  9. #29
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    Pretty sure digital in USB is still subject to noise because it's traveling as electrical pulses through the wire. The interference wouldn't be the same as it is for analog, it would be like packet loss over ethernet. It's the idea of using the light that makes it so enticing.
    Now, your idea isn't without merit: cheaper, more readily available, few surprises. The downsides are that it still can be affected by EMI, may have little or no cost savings, USB extensions are bulkier than I prefer and it negates a perfectly good high definition audio card built into the motherboard.

    If I was getting an external card anyway, it would be a very good suggestion. I will have simple USB sound cards in the three passenger doors, but only for headphone jacks for multizone audio


    -Ryven

    via iPhone

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