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Thread: 0/1 to 4 gauge to 8 gauge...... to 16 Gauge

  1. #11
    Newbie CanuckMark's Avatar
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    Have you tried Princess Auto? I got my MAXI fuse blocks from the surplus area there. I believe they also have ATC fuse blocks which would be good for the smaller gauge wiring - something like this one.

  2. #12
    Raw Wave
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    I got recently got dual MAXI holders from some French car (Pug maybe?) complete with one 40A MAXI fuse.
    (Though for 40A - why bother? I'd be tempted to use the plastic flinks (fuselinks) for up to about 100A (their max rating?) since there are lots of modular boxes for them (from cars). But for ~40A & higher, I'd be tempted to use the bolt in types - but that is based on one hot discolored 40A plug-in flink in my engine bay - ie, bad contacts -> heat -> melts but doesn't blow. Different for clean stuff not in e-bays.)

    That's more FYI FWIW....

    BTW - I tend to use circuit breakers; ~AUD$7 each for blade types (to 30A) for lights & other "critical" accessories , and up to 50A stud & bolt (weather/water-proof) for (eg) my inter-battery connection (to supply a load of 2.5A max but cable capable of 100A or more). They are self-resetting so headlights come back on, and flat aux batteries that have taken a charge above 50A eventually return to normal service (rather than finding at the end of the trip my fridge is not cold, and seeing the tree before the headlights drop out again).

  3. #13
    Newbie CanuckMark's Avatar
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    Depends on what you're protecting - they can take a lifetime to trip. Many moons ago in my competition days I ran a first generation Orion 425HCCA high current amp that was fed by 2X30A fuses. One set of channels was running at the load limit and a good bass beat would take out a 30A fuse. Got tired of pulling over and changing the fuse in the trunk, so I replaced it with a 25A CB. 2 days later I was looking at a $350 bill for a new power supply stage - not only did the 4 month old amp smoke, they wouldn't warranty the repair due to the breaker.

    Not saying they're no good, you just have to be sure that the components you are protecting can wait until the breaker trips. I'll take fuses any day after that.

  4. #14
    Raw Wave
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    That's a function of the fuse/breaker type.
    You chose wrong. Breakers can be faster than fuses - but not only does that vary with load, it als depends on the fuse/breaker type and their trip curves.


    But is the 2x30A fuses were in parallel, and you only took out one (not both) fuses, then something is/was wrong (maybe only one was connected?).
    And they probably would not have blown at only 110% overload anyhow.

    But this is for distribution, NOT for equipment protection.
    Any manufacturer that makes the user supply the protection fuse without specifying exactly what size & type of fuse is probably looking for a way out of their warranty (though some legit excuses exist).

  5. #15
    Maximum Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by malcom2073 View Post
    I'm also looking at the same problem (16g wire to 4g). I saw the Blue Sea fuse panel and think that is probably the best/safest option for the OP.

    I did a bit of searching and it looks like lots of truck/SUV guys use these for all their off-road lighting, etc..

    ---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    i usually just fold the smaller gauge wire over a couple of times until the terminal can make a good grip on it..
    I don't like the sound of that.

  6. #16
    Newbie CanuckMark's Avatar
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    That unit was essentially 2 amps in one chassis, so each power supply got a 30 amp fuse.

    As for this being about distribution, did the OP not originally say he was looking to protect components?

    Quote Originally Posted by -zip- View Post
    ...whatever connectors out to 16 gauge. We have so much stuff running 16. I have an Opus that needs 3 connections, Fusion Brain, Switches, Relays etc...

  7. #17
    Raw Wave
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    Nope. That is distribution.


    And so one 25A CB for each separate a 30A fuse (ie, max ~650 W input). The CB clearance time exceeded that of the fuse for whatever fault it was.
    I know only too well - equipment fuse selection can be critical. (Hence why the manufacturer "shall supply" else specify.... And when they say "replace only with fuses of the same type & rating....", rare as it may be, sometimes they actually mean it. Not that fuses are normally that selective.)
    Last edited by OldSpark; 04-08-2011 at 09:29 AM.

  8. #18
    Newbie CanuckMark's Avatar
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    Oh right, fuses at the power point. I'm used to older audio components without internal fusing, that's what I was thinking.

  9. #19
    Raw Wave
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    Well, fuses to protect downstream wiring....

    And sorry - my added 2nd para (the edit) missed your reply. (Distraction delay!)

  10. #20
    FLAC -zip-'s Avatar
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    Hey Mark that fuse block looks right, ring terminal 4 ATC/ATO fuses with spade connectors. Yeah I go to Princess Auto pretty much every weekend, but they did not have anything like that in Surplus in my neck of the woods. I may just order a couple of these. Hey I had a 1986 Fiero GT as well. Fun car!

    I phoned them they have 11 in stock in the trailer section, one of the isles I never frequent. perfect! Thanks Mark! will use a couple of these.
    Last edited by -zip-; 04-08-2011 at 11:31 AM.
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