Thread: 0/1 to 4 gauge to 8 gauge...... to 16 Gauge

I use these:
http://www.amazon.com/Fuse-Block-Ato.../dp/B001P6FTHC
http://www.amazon.com/BLUE-SEA-SYSTE.../dp/B000K2MBPA

For distribution once you get to the smaller sizes. Run an 8 gauge wire with a ring terminal to the power, and branch off from there.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...k-NFB3438.html
Something like that, for example, would be adequate to split off the 4 gauge to a few 8 gauge outputs, fused even.

I'd avoid the older glass fuses and use blades instead. Better contact integrity and (construction) reliability.

Thanks Malcom and Mayor Spark, I got the distro blocks, and those Amazon things look perfect except they dont ship to Canada

Old Spark, What about these? http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html

I cant tell if they will accept 4 or 8 gauge in? Shipping cost is crazy but im willing to pay it to ship to Canada if there is no other option. Its the last little piece I need for the install which is happening in 2 weeks so I have to order something soon.

i usually just fold the smaller gauge wire over a couple of times until the terminal can make a good grip on it..

Soundman do you also use a fuse? I have read if you change the wire size its best to fuse it. Your option is a good option too and wont cost me anything, but is it safe? I need several connections for Opus power supply, Fusion Brain, Relays, switches, etc. Can I connect multipule devices to one output on a distro block ?

The distro blocks I have are fused, have 3 outputs. One will go to amp at 4 ga. then I have all these little devices all with 16 ga wiring so I have 2 outs left that can either be 4 or 8 ga.


side note:

I called the owner.
I found something that ships to canada but its damn expensive. For you USA folks price is ok, its the shipping that kills us brothers north

http://www.wiringproducts.com/conten...136.html#p4002

if the device has it's own fuse, then just add up all the devices, and install a fuse of that size on that 'port' on the distro block. if the devices don't have a fuse, there are plenty of fuse harnesses available that you can fuse each individual device

remember, if something were to go wrong with the device, it probably won't blow the fuse right away-- the fuse is there to prevent the wire from shorting should it get cut/knicked--like in a car accident... the main power wire fuse really should not be used to protect all teh devices so much..

I am currently facing the same problem, I have run 4 gauge into my canopy as it is a 10 metre loop and want a fuse block to power all the devices in it like my fridge and lights.
I saw this on another forum and thought it looked reasonably neat.

The awkward thing with that (soldering) method is heat-treating the contacts - it can weaken the springiness etc.

[ FYI - That's a fault with glass connectors after years or decades - contact spring tension decreases after heating. Combined with bad contact (oxidisation over a large area), the causes thermal runaway - more heat, less tension, worse contact - then FIRE!. Ever burnt your fingers on a glass fuse or its holder eve though it's passing stuff-all power? Hence go for ATO/ATC blade fuses - or screw-bolt in for higher currents (~40A upwards).
But that is after time. My MAIN reason against glass is end-cap joins fuse joins end-cap. Two joins prone to failure through vibration or CHeap or bad construction. (Strange, I can seem to combine poor quality with a lower-case CHeap.) I have seen many NEW open-circuit glass fuses of late. I suspect they are made in INA.
Blade fuses however can be one pressing, else more robust joints.
They can still have fractures (that open ONLY when in use - ie, heated) and have contact corrosion, but since the OldFart Fault-Finding Dictum is to rotate all same sized fuses (else remove/refit to at least break-make contact), that can usually be traced. Inserting blades should be met with some resistance - ie, contact friction/pressure - else beware poor contact.... fire. ]


-zip- - those ATO/ATC etc fuse holders look good. At least wrt the fuse being a blade type. (I tend to use fuse blocks from other cars, but that's because my fusing is engine bay or external so those blocks (with side-spades) don't suit. And I since I frequent wreckers....)


And reiterating soundman and others - fusing is to protect what is downstream (until the next protection/fuse).
The equipment should have its own protection fuse (IMO the user should never have to worry about that).
Hence your fusing is to protect the distribution to the equipment.
Hence you might have a big fuse at/near the battery to protect the first big cable segment, then smaller fuses downstream to protect their smaller cable segments, repeated...
Every smaller branch in the tree will have its fuse protecting it.
However the last can be restated as every smaller branch in the tree will have a fuse protecting it. That could mean any of its upstream fuses protect it.
Hence you get systems where you might have big to medium to small cables from the source (battery), but there is only ONE fuse at the battery. EG - cables of 100A, 50A, 30A feeding a max 10A load with a 10A to 30A (max) fuse at the battery.
That may sound stupid, but it is used when voltage drops are to be minimised, when future expansion is expected, or maybe even for increased reliability. The same can be done in any branch.
The only real fusing rule is that <whatever> shall have something somewhere upstream that protects it (and that that something should not itself be a hazard!! I've seen too many systems that were safer WITHOUT their fuse!)

Sounds good, Ill use some ATO inline fuse holders if needed with devices that have no protection internally, I already have a couple of these holders, and hook them the way you guys suggest. I will also add up the total Amps of all the weenie devices and slap that fuse on the distro block. I have the KnuKoncept distro blocks so I will have to figure out how to fold the wire over, but this is the cheapest method so will go with it this year and see how it works out. Thanks guys!