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Thread: How can I determine what wire powers my amp & sub? Need some help, here!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    i believe that the green/purple, and green/white pairs should be the sub signal-- usually the negative part is grounded to the chassis-- if you remove both these wires, teh sub should stop working all together. you might need to use the meter on the AC setting to read any fluctuation here-- try a real bassey song for this test..

    red/purple--probably not safe to plug into the standard 12v power.. does this line turn off with the radio? if it does, that is the line you need.. though i kinda think that the ground is used as a referance-- so be prepared to require both for the amp to work. i have a link on my laptop to a switching power supply(a site that oldspark recommended-- maybe he's got the link closer at hand) that you should be able to use to get a 2v output with minimal heat.
    The Red/Purple line does in fact shut off with the engine/ignition. The stripped wire is a ground for sure as I've tested it. I'll check the other two cables in AC to see what readings I get.

    ---------- Post added at 07:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ----------

    I tried getting an AC reading from Green/White and Green/Purple, but my voltmeter didn't pick up anything. Although the sub really, really weakens as soon as my voltmeter's prong is inserted into the Green/Purple socket. Could that mean that this is the positive terminal and that I'm basically sending half the signal straight into a ground?

    If all my assumptions are correct, here's what I need to do:

    • Red/Purple: No idea where to go with this one as it's only 2v.
    • Stripped: Route into the deck's ground line.
    • Green/Purple: Splice into RCA positive terminal.
    • Green/White: Splice into RCA negative terminal.

    ---------- Post added at 09:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------

    Someone found a wiring diagram for me! Eeee!

    The audio unit sends audio signals to the subwoofer amplifier through circuits VME22 (VT/GN) and RME22 (GN/WH). The enable/clip circuit SME23 (VT/RD) serves 2 functions: to enable the subwoofer amplifier, and to detect an overload condition. When an overload condition is present, the audio unit clips the signal to the subwoofer amplifier (heard as distortion). The subwoofer amplifier receives voltage through circuit SBP12 (GN/RD), and ground through circuit GD103 (BK/BU).
    Last edited by steelfrog; 04-07-2011 at 09:15 PM.

  2. #12
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    on the border of northern IL/IN
    that was exactly what i needed to see...

    from the schematic:

    green/white: negative audio signal
    green/violet(purple): positive audio signal

    connect the grn/wht to the inner conductor of a rca cable.
    connect the grn/vio to the outer conductor of a rca cable.

    red/violet: 'enable detect' ie. turns the amp on/off.

    this is the board i was talking about. because it is a switching converter, there will be less heat then with a linear regulator-- and 12v-2v is a big step for a linear v reg..

    there will still be some heat, but as long as you try to keep the board in a area it can get a little air, it should be fine..

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    I've read that the red/violet cable may be passing data from the stock deck, not just a "keep alive" voltage. If that's the case, then I'm SOL. Ever see it happen?

    At this point, I'm starting to debate just throwing in my old amp to power the subwoofer. I think it could easily fit under the passenger seat, out of the way, but now I need to figure out the sub's wiring. Ugh. I wish I had a friend who knew about this stuff.
    Last edited by steelfrog; 04-08-2011 at 07:56 AM.

  4. #14
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    on the border of northern IL/IN
    well, if your just going to throw a diff amp in, that would make it a little easier..

    you have 4 connections coming off the sub. which indicates it's a dual voice voil sub.

    red, and white should be +
    blue, and black should be -

    if you use a ohm meter, you should get a resistance across the red/black combo, and the white/blue combo.

    polarity is really easy to test with a 9v battery. put it across the terminals, and the sub should 'pop out' if connected correctly. it will 'pull in' if the connections are backwards of what i listed-- just don't hold it that way for more then a couple of seconds.

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