Always use new wire. Car manufacturers use the cheapest stuff they can find.
i use a set of peerless hds 6.5" mids(the nomex cone, without phase plug-- it has a slightly smoother off-axis response), a set of dayton audio ND28F-6 1-1/8" tweeters--the extra 1/8" really helps smooth the tweeters out. i also run a pair of kicker cvr's in a too-small box.
at this time, i run a active setup, with the carpc doing all the audio routing and manipulation, with a alpine mrp-f350 4ch amp for the mids and highs, and a crummy sony 600w amp for the subs..
right now, i am wrapped up in some lighting mods, so because the sound system works but isn't perfect, it stays as-is until i have care more..
the current plan is to ditch both amps and subs for the jl hd series amps--a 600/4, and 750/1, and replace the subs with a single 10, or 12 in a correctly-sized box--unknown at this time-- i keep flopping between the w6, dayton referance series, and many other subs talked about on diyma-- i really haven't researched it, so it remains a unknown..
My 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
"The Project That Never Ends"
more projects then time!
Led Skyline Tail Lights--100%
High Power Led Reverse Lights--100%
Led third brake light--100%
Led front turn signals--0%
HID retro--100%
Always use new wire. Car manufacturers use the cheapest stuff they can find.
Bookmarks