i always prefer to run new speaker wire.
I ordered a full Type-R Alpine system for my 2005 Accord and I wanted to know if it's worth running new custom speaker wires from the trunk (where the amp will sit) to the speakers, or if I should just get some kind of adapter and plug into the factory harness.
If the former, I should be good. I understand plenty about the way wiring works and such, if the latter, I need help finding a harness adapter. Everything I've seen looks to be an adapter for the AUX port in the back of the factory stereo & not something directly for the output.
Any help is appreciated.
-Zack
i always prefer to run new speaker wire.
My 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
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I was thinking that. It complicates the install but makes the wiring simple.
-Ryven
via iPhone
i figured others would come in on the topic as well...
i have tried installs both ways, and the amount you gain by installing your own wire makes the couple saturdays it takes to install it very worthwhile.
My 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
"The Project That Never Ends"
more projects then time!
Led Skyline Tail Lights--100%
High Power Led Reverse Lights--100%
Led third brake light--100%
Led front turn signals--0%
HID retro--100%
Picked up some 14/2 (pair of 14awg wires in one jacket) wire for my speakers. Using 1/0awg for the feed to the trunk, 8awg for my DC-DC regulators & 4awg for the amp & sub.
Now I have to teach myself how to build a sub enclosure.
-Zack
via Droid Charge
Hey, Soundman,
Would you recommend I activate the high pass filter in my amplifier at 30Hz so I don't waste watts sending bass to my 5 1/4s and 6x9s?
This is a very interesting amp... many more features than I expected.
-Zack
via Droid Charge
you said you would be installing a sub? if so, figure out what frequency range the sub covers, and then set the 5-1/4 speakers high pass for where the sub trails off. or, if you like it loud, figure out where the speakers can't keep up with the bass notes, and use that frequency for the crossover point.
on my old setup-- some pioneer 5-1/4's, i had to run a 120hz crossover.
on my new setup--some peerless hds mids, i run them at a 50hz crossover.
in general, a good starting point for crossovers is about 80-100hz. depending on your setup, it could be higher or lower.
My 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
"The Project That Never Ends"
more projects then time!
Led Skyline Tail Lights--100%
High Power Led Reverse Lights--100%
Led third brake light--100%
Led front turn signals--0%
HID retro--100%
It occurred to me that while I have purchased a sub, it may be a bit before I get my boxes built for the trunk. I was advised to do MDF for mounting and fiberglass for the body of the box. In the meantime, I will let my 6x9s handle the low frequencies until the sub gets hooked up. After some more research, it looks like the HPF is the best bet, but where to set it depends on the speakers.
What do you have in your car right now, soundman?
-Zack
via Droid Charge
you mean in terms of settings or equipment?
in respect to your other part-- i always run a hp crossover esp. on any speaker smaller then 8", i would never run less then 50hz. most speakers smaller then 8" can't get any lower then about 50hz, so your really not missing any information. granted, you do loose some door-panel shaking bass, but nothing that is really audible.
My 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
"The Project That Never Ends"
more projects then time!
Led Skyline Tail Lights--100%
High Power Led Reverse Lights--100%
Led third brake light--100%
Led front turn signals--0%
HID retro--100%
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