What the ohm load per channel?
A couple months ago I purchased Kenwood deck and subs but they have been acting up. When i crank them up high they play fine, no distort, but then cut out, come back, and cut it and it keeps on going like that without me touching the volume. Lower levels of volume they work just fine, no cut out.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the wiring, I could always be wrong though. But this is what I've come up with that might be wrong:
- Shorted wire somewhere
- not getting enough power This is what I think is the problem
- amp might not be stable at that ohm level
- amp is overheating
Any help is helpful.
Last edited by blckninja; 06-07-2011 at 01:59 PM. Reason: More information
What the ohm load per channel?
1.if you have a digital multimeter,(if you don't, check harbor freight-- they have $5 ones), check the resistance at the amp terminals.
2. you never listed the amp model, so we can't determine the specs.
3. "not getting enough power" is not a cause. that is a symptom of either poor power connections, or faulty equipment.
4. how are the subs connected(could you draw a ms paint picture of all the connections/wires?)
edit: i see you linked the amp kit-- dinners ready, so i'll come back to it later if needed..
ok, take 2--partially...
if you got that package from crutchfield, call or email them. you paid extra because of the support that crutchfield offers, it would be a shame not to use it.
Here is a link to the wiring, since the pic was so big i didn't want to be that guy on here. Top two wires are black, bottom two are white, obviously one white and one black going to each sub. For sake of convenience here is description for the amp and subs:
KAC-5204 2-channel amplifier
60 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (150 watts x 1 bridged at 4 ohms)
built-in low-pass filter (80 Hz fixed, 12 dB/octave)
preamp (RCA) and speaker-level inputs
MOSFET power supplies
KFC-W110S 10" 8-ohm subwoofers
power range (per sub): 50-175 watts RMS (700 watts peak power)
frequency response: 35-1,000 Hz
And calling Crutchfield is a good idea, I will do that tomorrow hopefully.
I am concerned as to the reason you this connected up this way?
The 2 RCA plugs on the other end of the AMP is left & right audio coming from the head unit.
I assume the 2 sets of wires coming off that bridged terminals is going to both subs?
This seems like a very odd setup to begin with as it will not give you any gain at all.
I would wire 1 sub upto the left and the other to the right as it should be.
The problem might be related to too much draw of power that your cars alternator cannot handle.
Do you happen to get a light dimming at all under high bass?
TBH, I knew nothing when I got this equipment other than how to tell good subs and amps from bad ones, I knew nothing about wiring. So I took it down to a car audio place and had them wire it for me, i'm stupid blah blah blah. I don't know if my lights dimm as i rarely drove at night, i'll check that out tonight. What wiring setup do you suggest?
1. the low bass that subs reproduce can be attained from a single channel-- usually, the left audio channel contains all bass notes.
2. there are trade-off's to every setup:
using a higher resistance speaker means that the speaker will be more sensitive to changes in the audio, and will sound better.
but this also means that there is generally less wattage moving through the speaker, so it is not as loud.
using a lower resistance speaker means that it will be less sensitive to changes in the audio, and will sound slightly boomier.
but this also means that there is generally more wattage moving through them, so they will be louder.
the best way to get the most out of a set of subs is to use them with a bridged amp-- it helps double the amount of power available on a single channel.
so instead of having only 2-150 watt channels, bridging the amp would allow a single 300w channel-- if i remember right, this would result in a +3db increase in sound level-- humans can really only hear differences in sound level above +6db, but there is a added amount of control-- the more wattage, the easier the amp can push the speaker..
3. it shouldn't be caused by too much draw-- possibly poor wiring, but not too much draw. i run 2 amps that have triple the amount of power he is using, on the factory alternator with zero issues.
also, lights dimming is not a condition of the system drawing too much power, but is a indication that the power wiring for the new equipment was not correctly installed. a correctly installed sound system would not only include new wiring for the amps, but also upgraded battery, engine, and alternator grounds. and in some cases, other parts as well.
1. being that you had a car audio shop wire everything, i would first recommend taking it back to them before calling crutchfield-- there is a chance that they made a mistake, so it is best to give them a chance to fix it first. just don't run into the shop screaming that they screwed up your car-- as long as you stay civil, a good shop will take care of you.
2. the subs are 8ohm subs. so 'assuming'(you know what they say about that) that the subs are connected correctly, this would result in a 4ohm end-load, which is exactly what the amp is supposed to be able to handle--which would result in a problem-free setup...
3. this is why it is best to use a ohm meter across the terminals to see what the resistance is-- if there were any problems, it would be evident when the meter reading is wrong.
4. i had a similar problem to what your experiencing, though, in my case, i was blowing amps up.. i had pinched the rca cables going from the deck to the amp, which was causing a short(i lost 2 amps and a nice hu to that problem)
4. as a tinker-er, i have a hard time not doing stuff myself, mostly because i like a challenge, but kudo's to you for realizing that this was above your head and taking it to a shop, instead of making a worse mess of it.