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Thread: Carputer input to stock mustang speakers

  1. #1
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    Carputer input to stock mustang speakers

    Hey guys, I have been browsing the forums for a while, and have answered most of my questions through the use of the search function and many trips to the mp3car store. I have my entire carputer designed, and am working on some things at the software end, but have a question. I want to retain the factory Mach 460 stereo system in my car, and of course power than through the carputer. I found options such as running an amplifier or an intermediary headunit to undertake this, but was looking for a better/cleaner option. Is it possible to hookup the factory speakers/amps to a carputer directly? I searched through the thread that included harnesses, and came across a few with RCA inputs (which would evidently be what I need), specifically: http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=70-5510

    However, I am not sure where I would hook up the harness' speaker wires after connecting these connectors into the factory system. Could anyone offer me some insight into this?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Is there any device that adds an aux input to your factory head unit. Maybe through an unused satellite radio input. That is what I did in my car.

    Edit: This is the kind of device that I was talking about
    Last edited by drewbp; 06-10-2011 at 12:44 AM.
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    ^ i believe i saw another mustang build that had that.

    that harness you listed might work, but the amount of work that it would require to get to work is going be a pain-- like changing a tire on a rainy/hailing day...

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    Thanks for the responses. I decided that it would be easier to just swap the stock speakers out and run them to a 4.1 amp, along with a small subwoofer. Then, I can run the soundcard directly to the amp and the amps to the stock speakers, rather than integrating a HU in the middle to drive the stockers. I am debating whether I want to run a converter in the car or a intelligent ATX DC power supply (like those in the store), since both have advantages. If I damage a standard PSU, it can be replaced for 20-30 bucks, but the DC models would be 80+. On the other hand, I wouldn't need a converter and could just use a power line, plus it has startup/shutdown features to automatically control the carputer, which would be nice.

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    i think the cost of dc-dc psu's are well worth the amount of hassle that they remove-- like you said, they are more expensive, but the chances of the psu going bad are not that high..

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    Yeah, I think I have decided to go with the M4-ATX. I have been reading a ton on them and just hope that mini-box has worked out the problems they had a few years ago when they first released them. I am finishing up the components of the system and am determining speakers/amp right now.

    I am also working on the design for my power setup, which will run a 6 gauge line from the battery to the cap, hit a distribution block and diverge to 3 lines (2x300, 1x100). All lines will be fused. One will go to the PSU, the other to the amplifier and the third to a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump.

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    don't waste time with the cap. the only time caps help is for a very brief instant load-- after that point though, the cap becomes another load on your alternator, keeping power from the rest of the car... if you want extra power, look into adding a second battery instead-- it will have much more power then any cap on the market.

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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    don't waste time with the cap. the only time caps help is for a very brief instant load-- after that point though, the cap becomes another load on your alternator, keeping power from the rest of the car... if you want extra power, look into adding a second battery instead-- it will have much more power then any cap on the market.
    Sorry, I meant to type "cab", not "cap", as in capacitor. I am having some difficulty determining my wiring setup, but other than that I think everything else is set. I found the speakers/amp I will be running (nothing great, but a bit better than stock), and am trying to find the safest way to run a high power line into the cabin of the car (around 1000-1100 W total peak draw, likely 550-700 RMS). I am currently looking into running one large wire into the cabin, splitting that line once and then splitting one of the split lines again. This will give me one line for the BAP and two split lines for the PSU and AMP. Do you foresee any problems with this setup?

    I quickly drew this in paint...it's late, so forgive the its elementary quality:

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    that setup should be fine as long as you are under the power draw of each wire(i think you already know this, and are planning around it).. i tried looking up the power draw of the BAP, but couldn't find anything in the brief search..

    i kinda like paint drawings better-- they are straight and to the point, with few colors/stuff to get in the way..

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    I've decided to go with the Opus 360 PSU, rather than the M4. I have read too many horror stories to feel comfortable going with the M4. It costs double, so that kinda sucks, but if it works as it should and is as reliable as most have claimed, then it will be worth the extra money to have a worry-free setup.

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