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Thread: What Is The Difference Between The Two Batts???

  1. #1
    Maximum Bitrate RAWPWR's Avatar
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    What Is The Difference Between The Two Batts???

    What is the difference between these two batteries?

    Besides the balloon prices..... and that #1 has a 135 ah, and #2 has a 134ah.

    Plus, if you notice both batts look very simular as far as size, and cosmetically.

    Except one is blue with a pretty logo sticker. Maybe same company?

    How are compared to quality/longevity with each other?

    I'm going to add two of these to my rear area, and get rid of my yellow optima that is already back there, the question to myself is which brand to pick?

    I appreciate any ones input/ experiences with these two brands. I just want more time to play my tunes when car is off,'tis all.


    #1 http://www.wholesalebatteriesdirect....o-Battery.html


    #2
    http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/pro...?P=KHC3800&C=1


    Thanx.
    Last edited by RAWPWR; 07-12-2011 at 10:59 AM.

  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate RAWPWR's Avatar
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    Anyone?

  3. #3
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    Those are crazy expensive batteries. My guess would be different manufacturers of the same style battery, or perhaps a rebranding of the same battery. How long do you plan on running your system that you're thinking of paying $1400 purely in batteries?
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  4. #4
    Maximum Bitrate RAWPWR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by malcom2073 View Post
    How long do you plan on running your system that you're thinking of paying $1400 purely in batteries?
    melcom2073, This is purely for entertaining purposes @ pig roasts, clambakes .etc...... I need the extra power, ......pushing 5,000+. (Yes real RMS)

    This is a vehicle that only gets taken out of the garage once, maybe twice a season.

    And I'm not going with #2 the $1400?? , I was thinking #1. Still pricey but I need the extra ah.

    I just want to see if anyone else on this forum is using these certain batts. good/bad, better then optima etc., ......and yes this might be a re-branding tactic.

    I was just curious.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by RAWPWR; 07-12-2011 at 09:55 PM.

  5. #5
    FLAC
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    They're definitely NOT the same battery. The Kinetik is an AGM battery, #1 is a SLA. Large difference in technologies.
    5000+ rms? What do you have for batteries and an alternator now?
    Unless you have a 350 amp alternator, if your system really does sustain 5000 rms, I wouldn't be surprised if you stall the car while driving!

    I have bad experience with Optimas. They're not all they're crocked up to be. Kinetik is supposed to be one of the best brands, but I've never used a Kinetik.

    Regardless, at 5,000 watts, a 135 AH battery will be flat dead in a half hour. Spend the money on the gas. At twice per season, it will be cheaper.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    I have bad experience with Optimas. They're not all they're crocked up to be. Kinetik is supposed to be one of the best brands, but I've never used a Kinetik.
    while i haven't had a bad experience with my yellow top yet, i have heard of more positive things about kinetic then optima..

  7. #7
    Maximum Bitrate RAWPWR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    They're definitely NOT the same battery. The Kinetik is an AGM battery, #1 is a SLA. Large difference in technologies.
    PaulF, I should of looked closer at the specks, my bad....oopsy. Thanks for the direction. Kinetik it is then. I still like optima even though I melted two in the past. But this one is still good and which I'll put to good use in my truck, not wasting it.

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    5000+ rms? What do you have for batteries and an alternator now?
    Isolator----> with a red optima starter batt for front engine area-----> and yellow optima in back area.

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    Unless you have a 350 amp alternator, if your system really does sustain 5000 rms, I wouldn't be surprised if you stall the car while driving!
    Yes, it is a 350 amp. alt. And I never crank it all the way when driving, I turn down all the gains a bit on the amps, because I didn't want my back window to start to bow and pop off from the seals again.

    And I never stalled yet.

    I only crank it when parked.

    Now for a complete revamped isolation setup in the making.........

    Can U say duel 350 amp alt kit?? Gee, lets see.....350+350=700 amps. Which I will buy from here------>http://www.alternatorparts.com/Extre...144%20type.htm I'm going to have a special duel bracket made for this install from a friend of mine. (like the pic below)

    350 amp alt #1 to isolator split to red optima starter batt and one of the Kinetik batts in back
    350 amp alt #2 to the second Kinetik batt. in back also.

    [QUOTE=PaulF;1450601]Regardless, at 5,000 watts, a 135 AH battery will be flat dead in a half hour.

    I should at least get a hour right? 134+134=268 ah

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    Spend the money on the gas. At twice per season, it will be cheaper
    True, true.....but where's the fun in that?

    nuff said. Thanks
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    Last edited by RAWPWR; 07-13-2011 at 09:59 AM.

  8. #8
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    Hi RAWPWR,

    Not sure if it would do what you are after, but I'm in a similar situation in regards to power, not for a mad system though, just because I'm setting up a motorhome and the power demand is quite high.

    I haven't tried yet but I purchsed some batteries which I hope will do the trick.
    Basically, I bought four 6v batteries, the idea is to have pair them in parallele and then connect the 2 pair in series. The reason for buying four 6v batteries is the price, but also the ah. Each battery is "rejuvenated" (to 95% of origininal specs) second hand golf cart battery which cost me $60 each (from a local ebay seller). they are I think 260Ah each at 6v which once properly connected should equate to 520Ah, now let's say I get only 80% of this (as opposed to the 95% promised by the seller) I still end up with 416Ah for a total of $240... not bad... I hope.

    The batteries are bloody heavy though, 33Kg each, they are Trojan T145.

    anyway, food for thoughts.

    Cheers,
    bebetaz

  9. #9
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    bebetaz, thanks for the input but are these batts AGMs? And will they be able to handle the strain of a deep cycle AGM? I'm just barely going to fit another batt to the mix and weight does concern me now to.... with 5 amps, 30 band EQs, X-Overs, mid bass in doors, floor pods etc. Not to mention the sub box... 4/12 K-L7s. I'm only going to use this for no more then a hour @ a time anyway. The price for kinetik batts does stink. No batteries should ever cost this much but hey,..... I went this far with the system...... and this should fully complete my audio portion of my install,..........finally after 11+ yrs...pheww!

    I think I might experiment a little with "Audio Mulch"+ plugs etc. for sound quality with the CarPc. Thanks for the inspiration soundman!

    The SQ is breath taking to begin with, ......I just have to dab a little more with the Pc sound.
    Last edited by RAWPWR; 07-18-2011 at 10:49 AM.

  10. #10
    Raw Wave
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    Sorry, but I could have sworn I replied to this thread... (Not censored again?)

    Those batts are both AGM. They may the same, or you may be paying for branding, or paying less for a lower quality sample (the Kinetic rejects), or maybe one is a copy....

    AH is AH irrespective of the battery type.
    However for heavy duty use, you are better off with wet cells. Wets tolerate high current levels and thrashing far better than AGMs and Gels (as a general rule) and are far better suited to spits, motors, starter motors/cranking etc. (Or rather, why pay extra for AGMs that are not as recoverable etc?)
    And there are other things like 2x135AH (paralleled) = 300AH (ie, more than 2 x 135), and that that has nothing to do with battery life other than the lesser the current or depth of discharge and rate of recharge or the bigger capacity of the battery, the longer it will last (ie, cycles). And that AGMs do not like supplying high "peak" currents (hence why caps might be used in SPL comps even though they reduce peak SPL dB).


    Most that I know with dual or multi battery audio setups stick with the standard (wet) cranking battery up front, and AGM(s) near the amps (or "big" loads - however winchers will generally use wets for secondary batteries).
    They typically run an isolator from main to secondaries (typically UIBIs - or as they say "only connect the aux batteries for/when recharging" as well as isolators between each aux battery when not in use (usually mechanical switches rather than UIBI or othere slave relays).
    [ PS - that's for those that haven't converted to HV distribution! ]


    But if you have 5kW of alternator, then you don't need the batteries.
    The most efficient is a portable generator. (I bought a pre-loved 3kVA for $200. Its Reserve Time is about 11 hours unless I top up its fuel beforehand. I could always remove the genny and mount it in my vehicle and run the engine at 1500 or 3000 RPM <whatever>.)

    Batteries are NOT alternate energy supplies, nor (long-term) emergency. They are a generally a temporary power supply only.
    Last edited by OldSpark; 07-18-2011 at 09:36 PM. Reason: PS...

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