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Thread: Car audio

  1. #1
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    Car audio

    Hi,

    I've just recently turned 17 and looking to get a speaker system soon for my car.

    I'm interested in Hardstyle/Trance stuff with a nice melody. So it has to give of quite good bass.

    I've been looking at some Vibe equipment on eBay. I came across an AMP that i quite liked. Now, does the AMP power have to be greater than the speaker output power? If so why? I think it does for better sound quality but i'm not entirely sure. I don't want distortion.

    Vibe Amplifier x2

    Vibe Subwoofer x1

    I would have the subwoofer in the boot of the car as well as the amp. I am also planning on getting an incar PC for storing all my music on as i have a **** load and don't want to put music on disk. The question is, does these amplifiers support optical input or does their connection have greater quality? I have a home cinema at home and use optical and it sounds incredible.

    What sort of speakers would i need to get for the parcel shelf and the doors and what sort of cabling would i need to be looking at including for the PC.

    I am also wanting to get one of the touch screen radios for the PC.

    I appreciate any response here a lot!

    Thanks in advance,
    David.

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate kolton5543's Avatar
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    Welcome to mp3car. First the link for the amplifier isn't working right. Every time I click on it it just takes me to ebays home page. Second, I would recommend NOT buying from ebay. You could probably get better prices someplace else and with ebay there's no telling what kind of condition a product may actually be in.

    Anyways, because I can't see the amp I can't tell you if It can connect using optical but 99.99% of the time, your amp is gonna get it's source from either RCA's or high level inputs only. If you want to go from optical to RCA then the most common thing needed is a sound processor with optical inputs but they become pretty pricey. Usually the same cost as a decent computer it's self.

    Just to get you going, the sub and amp will be probably be a good starting point. But if your like me and hate listening to people drive down the road with music blasting but all you can hear is their car rattling then I would recommend lining pretty much the whole car with vibration dampener. There are many different brands that of vibration dampeners such as Dynamat, Damplifier Pro, and Audio Technix, just to name a few. I like to line the whole car, even under the dash. Be aware though. Most vibration dampeners are a bit heavy and some may smell bad or not stick well so look out for the bad stuff. Do research on everything. Read reviews. There's a vast amount of information on here.

    Now regarding door speakers. That is up to you mainly. You could run two way or more coaxials in you doors or you can run components with a tweeter in your a pillars or wherever else you may decide to mount them. You can run them directly off of a head units amp if your using one or you could use external amps for more power if you like.

    Then the biggest thing in car audio is power. Remember that you really cant get TOO BIG with your your power cables. I'd recommend grounding your amps to the chassis of your car, keep your ground cable as short as possible, keep it the same diameter as your power cable and try to minimize grounding point in the car (ground two or more amps on one bolt. It will help with ground loops). For the size of wire you should use is more or less up to you. If your running small low power amps then the variety of cable sizes and lengths are large. I'f you're running high power amps then the variety gets slimmer. If you need some references on the smallest cables you should use then you should do some research on charts. "the12volt.com" has some pretty good charts here.

    Good luck. And if you don't mind, I'm sure all of us would like to see a worklog.

  3. #3
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    you made a mistake telling your age-- my big brother influence is kicking in and i want to scream at you to not be dumb and blow money on all this junk. get a good job, pay off any loans, buy a car/house, move out of the parents house...

    but i'll answer your questions anyways because in the end i don't need to deal with the end result of you blowing your money..


    [QUOTE=davidelliott294;1453621]Hi,

    I've just recently turned 17 and looking to get a speaker system soon for my car.

    I'm interested in Hardstyle/Trance stuff with a nice melody. So it has to give of quite good bass.[quote]

    don't know about hardstyle, but i listen to a little trance..

    Quote Originally Posted by davidelliott294 View Post
    I've been looking at some Vibe equipment on eBay. I came across an AMP that i quite liked. Now, does the AMP power have to be greater than the speaker output power? If so why? I think it does for better sound quality but i'm not entirely sure. I don't want distortion.
    it is best to match the RMS wattage of the amp and the speakers. max values are too easily fudged to be of any consistent worth.

    you can use a amp that can output more power then what the speakers are rated for, but must be very careful about how this is done--it gets you 'that' much closer to easily blowing the speakers.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidelliott294 View Post
    that is a 4ch amp that you are looking at--imo, it is not enough power for that sub, and it is really designed for door speakers, not subs.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidelliott294 View Post
    I am also planning on getting an incar PC for storing all my music on as i have a **** load and don't want to put music on disk. The question is, does these amplifiers support optical input or does their connection have greater quality? I have a home cinema at home and use optical and it sounds incredible.
    optical is a tough area-- usually you would end up needing a $800 processor to decipher the optical signal, or a very expensive amp.

    the problem with optical devices is that most are dumb-- ie: say you play a 2ch music track. when this gets sent over a optical cable to the amp, it keeps it as 2ch, and doesn't send any part of the signal to the sub, only the 2 door speakers.


    imo, optical is ok in-car, but to date, there really isn't much of anything available, and most of what is available is very expensive..

    i just run standard rca cables, and it sounds just fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidelliott294 View Post
    What sort of speakers would i need to get for the parcel shelf and the doors and what sort of cabling would i need to be looking at including for the PC.
    that depends on the car and the install-- there is no way i could even start to guess what would and would not be needed. remember a carpc is a custom device-- there are general things to do and not do, but there is not a set amount of a certain type of wire that everyone absolutely needs to have.


    Quote Originally Posted by davidelliott294 View Post
    I am also wanting to get one of the touch screen radios for the PC.
    a touch screen radio, or a touchscreen for the pc? those are 2 different devices, and many radios will not work with a carpc.

  4. #4
    Variable Bitrate chris350's Avatar
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    vibe? go with something like kicker mono block for subs.. FTW...
    CarPc
    Project "Driver"

    Planning [99.9%]

    Parts Collected [98.5%]

    Installation & Fabrication [98%]

    Total Completion Level [96.9 %]

    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...ct-driver.html

  5. #5
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    I remember when I was 17 with similar interests in improving my car's stereo system, it was very difficult to get good objective advice on what to buy. The first rule is don't trust salesmen in mass market stores like Best Buy. They are not paid to be good, they are paid to move merchandise. The posters above had some good pointers. I will add a little to that.

    1. First thing to recognize is that the power rating of the speakers does not have to be matched to the amplifiers. A speaker's power rating is related to the thermal limits of its voice coil. Exceed that power rating for an extended period of time, and the voice coil will melt. Listen at reasonable sound levels and this should never be an issue.
    2. Second thing to know is that too much power rarely kills speakers. Distorted power kills speakers. A cheap 50 watt amp with > 10% distortion on its outputs will damage a speaker much faster than a high quality amp with a much higher power rating and low levels of distortion. Why distortion kills speakers is hard to explain in a short post but it has to do with what happens when an amp starts 'clipping' the output signal.
    3. I don't know a lot about the Lanzar Vibe amps but they are probably decent quality for the money. If you want a low buck amp with a really good design pedigree, look for one of these on the used market:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERWIN-VEGA-...item5644d4760a

    The Cerwin Vega EXL series of amps from a few years ago were based on a design that was also used in some high end car amps and they perform very well. I own three of them. I have two of the EXL 350.2 2 channel amps and one EXL400.4 4 channel amp. These amps are very versatile with built in crossovers and the ability to bridge their output channels for higher power. The make their rated power with very low distortion.

    4. Forget about optical unless you have big bucks. There are not many options out there for optical input and they usually come with an expensive digital signal processor. It is a good way to go if you are investing large $$$ in your system but I would not recommend it for a young guy starting out. You can still get very good sound without it.

    5. Start out by installing a good set of front speakers and don't worry about the rear parcel shelf. Most high end installs use the rear speaker only for low volume 'fill' if at all. For the front speakers try to go with a 6.5" mid-bass and separate tweeter with a good quality crossover filter. Coaxial speaker sets that only use a capacitor filter on the tweeter, are not high quality. Whether these speakers should be installed in your doors or the kick panels depends on a lot of factors such as what kind of car, your skill level in doing your own install, and where the factory speakers are already installed in your car. You need to do more research here. There is no simple quick answer to this.

    6. Check out diymobileaudio.com There is a ton of useful information on that site that can help a newb out. Just don't start off with a post that asks for recommendations without searching the web site for answers first. There is a section with tutorials that is very good. Spend some time studying it before asking questions and you will get better responses from the experienced folks on the forum.

  6. #6
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    My advice to the OP:

    Don't bother with obnoxious, loud bass. Feeling your music isn't the same as hearing it and as time goes one, you will grow to regret a huge bass system more and more. Big bass costs big money. Prices get exponential if you get the competition bug.
    At 30, I still like some bass, but if it downs out the actual music, it ruins the experience.
    For a starter system, I recommend replacing your factory speakers. If you want louder, wire in a 4-channel amp to boost them. If you feel you still need more, THEN get a sub and mono amp to feed it. Make sure you don't use undersized power wire when you get to installing the amps. I debt think it will be a good idea to replace just the door speakers first. If it is a financial issue, understandable, but if you can buy both sets right off, do that. DEFINITELY DO NOT replace the shelf speakers first. It will not sound good with stock front speakers. If your shelf speakers are 6x9 like mine, you may find that they put out adequate bass. This will save you a bunch of money and reduce any possible regrets in the future.

    Don't splurge all at once for a full system. Don't listen to retail salesmen. Don't buy used off ebay. Don't skimp on power wiring if you get an amplifier. Don't bother with optical audio this early in your soundsystem building. Lastly, DO take your time to do things right.

    -Zack
    via Droid Charge

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    Since my first post, my views have completely changed. I want a nice stereo system with a rich sounding deep bass which is why i have changed my mind and decided to go with Alpine Type R subwoofers.

    These subwoofers are here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Alpine-...item415d797fba

    I would like to purchase them new but i cant find them anywhere. I was told to buy the 2ohm version rather than the 4ohm.

    I'm not sure which amplifier to purchase, though. I want to have my subs and my two car door speakers wired up to the amp for better sound quality as the quality of the car door speakers gets **** when you turn up the sound (They are wired up to the headunit).

    These subwoofers output a power of 500RMS each, i want two.

    If the bass gets to much, i always have an equalizer to turn the bass down.

    I'm also looking for a brand new head unit - Looking at the screen headunits, if someone could make some recommendations?

    I have a Volkswagen Lupo 1.0E and to boot is rather small, so yeah, haha.

    Thanks a lot!!

  8. #8
    Constant Bitrate kolton5543's Avatar
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    Quick advice about deciding on getting the 2 ohm version or the 4 ohm version. This must be taken into consideration deeply. When looking for an amp you may nfind one that says 500watts rms output. That doesn't mean it will with these subs. I realize these are DVC subs so if the amp puts out 500 RMS at two ohms then you should get the 4 ohm subs, wire the coils in parralel and then you will be good to geto. If you get the two ohm subs then you will either get too much power, or too less of power and, and always the possibility of damaging the amp depending on how you wire the coils. Do a bit of research with the amount of power a amp can produce in relative to it's impediance before you buy it.

    For a good example. I got a buddy here at my school who has a 12" 4 ohm DVC sub and he thinks he has 400 watts going to it. The issue is is that the amp produces 400 watts at 2 ohms and he has only 1 coil wired making it 4 ohms and he's only getting 150 watts.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lincolnman View Post
    Your English is fine, don't apologize. You're doing better than most Americans.

  9. #9
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    ^but that 150w@4ohm is more efficient then 400w@2ohm....

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    So what do you recommend i get? I don't want the subs to be under powered because if they are i will get distortion when they are turned up loud. I was recommended to get the 2ohm versions from a guy over at overclock.net.

    Quote:

    (Speaking of Alpine Type Rs)

    That would be them, yes. You'll want to try to find some new somewhere. Make sure they have the ribbed surround....not smooth. Those subs are BEASTLY and will take 750w RMS daily after being broken in.

    A pair of those, mixed with a good 1500w monoblock, a tuned box at 32Hz, and you won't be able to sit in your car with it up full blast.

    He recommended these amps:
    Audiopipe AP15001D
    MB Quartz ONYX 1000w

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