Page 4 of 10 FirstFirst 12345678910 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 95

Thread: Why does my new setup sound like ***?

  1. #31
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Panama City Beach
    Posts
    629
    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340 View Post
    Well I've turned the gain all the way down on my amp and the hiss is still there! WTF!? Also, I can hear the hard drive being accessed like crazy through the speakers..
    Did you check out the link I posted? If you have noise with the RCAs disconnected from the amp, you have an amp problem or a wiring problem.
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  2. #32
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    19
    Ok Tbird Refresh my memory on the make and model amp that you have. Also it is important that you use quality RCA Cables to shield in radiated noise and that the RCA cables be run separate from the power cables of the amp. One other thing to check is adjustments on the amp, there may be a high level/low level switch you may need to switch to low level.

  3. #33
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Poland, OH
    Posts
    2,000
    Ugh... So I have no idea how this happened so maybe someone can clarify..

    I have a 4gauge power run from the battery to a distro block and a 4gauge ground running from a bolt in the back seat to a distro block.. Trying to troubleshoot and eliminate the ground block as a source of issue I removed the ground wire from my 4 channel amp that was going to the distro block..

    I then removed the ground feed going into the distro block and wired it directly to the 4 channel amp.. At this point the sub amp wasn't touch but also should not have gotten power as the ground feed was removed from the distro block where the sub amp's ground was run to..

    I powered on my carpc / amp and the freaking sub was hitting very strangely and loudly.. I didn't even have any music on! So I shut down the CarPC and then the amp(s) shut down as well..

    I walked around to the back to see smoke coming out of my 4 channel amp so somehow I fried the freaking thing..

    I'm guessing directly in the middle is what fried. Freaking thing doesn't have fuses!? WTF!?




    So a few questions...

    1. How in the heck did the sub amp turn on / have power if his ground went into the distro block but the distro block's main feed was removed!?
    2. Why did my 4 channel amp fry?
    3. Anyone recommend a good 4 channel amp? Should I just get a 2 channel amp since I don't have true 4 channels?

    Only thing I can think of regarding the sub amp turning on is that in my distro block I have four outputs.. 1 goes to 4channel amp, 1 goes to sub amp, 1 goes to CarPC, and 1 goes to my PAC TR-4 controller.. Come to think of it.. Why did my CarPC even turn on since the main ground was removed!?
    Last edited by tbird2340; 10-10-2011 at 02:59 PM.
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  4. #34
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Panama City Beach
    Posts
    629
    If things powered up, then there was a ground. At least one of your parts was a suitable ground, which made everything go crazy. Without looking at it, I have no idea what caused it. I think you should disconnect everything and verify your wiring and grounds, asap.

    I like my Alpine amps. I got them used on eBay. Both of them cost me less than $100. My 4 channel is MRP-F240, and my 2 channel (for the subwoofer) is the sister amp, MRP-T220.
    Last edited by kegobeer; 10-10-2011 at 05:38 PM.
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  5. #35
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    811
    Perhaps this might help:

    NOTE: This is a generalisation about electronic equipment and the “main” ground connection and not applicable in “every” case.

    In most circumstances the Heavy nominated negative (ground) connection to a device is NOT the only ground (negative) connection.

    1: Quite often the chassis is a ground connection and it may be a poor or partly isolated ground.

    2: Any RCA input, output or cable is, or can be, a secondary ground connection.

    3: Control cable inputs can be a secondary ground connection - IE. remote on/off - even if it’s only one connection (no ground) as it depends on how it’s wired in the device and there may still be a low power resistive path to ground.

    4: In a PC, almost every connection is or can be a secondary low current ground path, IE. Video, USB and Audio in/out.

    Most of these secondary ground connections have very low current capacity.

    If +DC power is still connected and the device is a high power unit and it’s powered on by whatever means (Audio sense, remote On/Off connection) and it draws substantial current, then the secondary ground connections – or the components connected to the end of that partial ground connection in the device (resistors, narrow PCB copper ground tracks etc) can fry.

    On an amplifier, a secondary ground can make the unit unstable and cause it to generate a pumping DC voltage to any connected speakers and therefore draw high current with no input signal.

    In a PC, the PC – PSU may still power on until every secondary ground path has been eliminated.

    I am always mindful to never power on anything that has the main ground disconnected.

    IMHO, the main ground (negative) connection should always be the first on and the last off.
    Last edited by Mickz; 10-10-2011 at 07:30 PM. Reason: To make more sense
    GA-Z77N-WIFI, i5-2400S, 8GB, Intel 520 128GB SSD, M4-ATX Modified, 2 Rev Cams, 2 Web Cams
    8" 16:9 TRANSFLECTIVE, Win8-64, Dual GPS RX and Garmin PC + Odyssey Nav, FM-DAB+, BB-Rec
    T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, code and FE. CarPC Project

  6. #36
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Poland, OH
    Posts
    2,000
    Awesome post. Thanks Mick.
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  7. #37
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Poland, OH
    Posts
    2,000
    What is everyone's thoughts on getting a 4 channel AMP to run all 4 speakers and my sub? I could pair the lefts to one channel, the rights to another channel, and then bridge the other two channels to the sub?

    If that sounds good.. What amp would do such a thing?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  8. #38
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Panama City Beach
    Posts
    629
    I think it would be better to buy a 5 channel amp if you wanted to run everything from it. Personally, I think a better choice would be to buy a 4 channel for the speakers and a mono or 2 channel amp for the sub. Sometimes the bass can be overpowering, so adjusting it would be very easy with a separate amp.

    If you stick with a 4 channel amp, you can run a pair of speakers and then bridge the other two outputs for the sub. But it's generally not a good idea to run two pairs of speakers from a single pair output of an amp.
    Last edited by kegobeer; 10-10-2011 at 06:09 PM.
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  9. #39
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    on the border of northern IL/IN
    Posts
    5,848
    ^ i agree-- just like carpc stuff, i like to keep a little separation of components, because i seem to have issues with half of all-in-one devices dieing...

  10. #40
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Poland, OH
    Posts
    2,000
    Thanks fellas.. I'm thinking about getting the Alpine MRP-M500 mono amp to power my SWR-1223D Type R but I'm still unsure what 4 channel amp to get..
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

Similar Threads

  1. Sound Setup? help?
    By outactrl in forum Newbie
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-06-2010, 10:06 AM
  2. New sound setup.
    By jaloos in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-30-2007, 08:56 PM
  3. will this setup sound better than....
    By Dichotomous in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-13-2006, 09:08 AM
  4. how does this carputer setup sound?
    By psiko_scweek in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-05-2005, 09:33 AM
  5. Sound Card Setup
    By gboy in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-23-2005, 10:17 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •