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Thread: Why does my new setup sound like ***?

  1. #41
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    The MRP-F300 is the matching 4 channel amp. It has solid reviews, and it would look good next to the M500 mono amp!
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  2. #42
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    the mrp-f300 worked decent for me until i blew mine up..

  3. #43
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    How'd you do that and what did you replace it with?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  4. #44
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    If you only have 2 channels coming into the mids/highs amp you can get away with a quality 2 channel amp Like a Punch P200.2 or P300.2, most mids/highs speakers are a 4 ohm load, these amps make full power into 2 ohms so you can run the two lefts together and the two rights together in parallel for a 2 ohm load. With the P200 you will get 50 watts rms per speaker. and wit the P300.2 you will get 75 watts rms per speaker. Most full range and component speaker will not need more then that.

  5. #45
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Question.. While I wait to buy my new amp.. Would it be possible to use my Kicker ZX350.2 to power all four of my door speakers? I have Polk MM6501's in the front which say they are 3 ohm and I have Polk DB650's in the rear which say they are 4 ohm..

    If I couple either the lefts into one channel and the rights to the other channel (or couple fronts / backs) would that work?

    Thanks!
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  6. #46
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    H1 tbird2340, With the 3 ohms front speakers it will run a little on the hot side but that amp would do fine for good.

  7. #47
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    yes, just be sure to connect the speakers in series-- so you should end up with about a 7-8ohm load with teh wires going to the amp.

    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340 View Post
    How'd you do that and what did you replace it with?
    my cl-rlc preamps have some spring-loaded glass fuse holders, and while moving some stuff in the trunk while the system was powered on, i kinda tugged on the wires to move them over, and it pulled power from all my preamps--when they powered back up a second later, everything popped, i kept moving the wire, and it popped a couple more times.. when i went to use the car later, i had bass(a crappy sony amp-- that has somehow survived this and another amp slaughter...), but no mids or highs... i have never had a amp that has died of natural causes yet-- either a issue of me screwing with it, or due to a poor install...

    i used it as a opportunity to update my setup to a pair of the new alpine pdx amps-- a m6, and f4. i wanted the jl audio hd series amps-- a 750/1 and 600/4, but those are at least $800 ea, so it was harder to justify..

  8. #48
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    so wiring them like that will be OK on the amp and speakers (I'm assuming you know the specs of everything I linked).

    The whole ohms thing confuses the heck out of me so I need to trust someone who knows what they are talking about.

    Thanks
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  9. #49
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    yes-- it is always ok to wire speakers so the ohms are higher, but you need to cxarefully check the specs to lower the ohms (to put it simply )

  10. #50
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Cool. Thanks.

    So what does that do as far as the wattage pushing of the amp?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

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