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Thread: Why does my new setup sound like ***?

  1. #61
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Also, looks like the MRP-F300 is only 50 RMS x 4.. My RF500x was 65 RMS x 4. Is 50 enough? "50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)".

    The MM6501s (3 ohm) have a RMS rating of 25 - 125 while the DB650's (4 ohms) have a RMS rating of 6 - 60..

    With that being said I guess I couldn't get a higher rated RMS amp anyways since my rears can only handle 60 max..
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  2. #62
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340 View Post
    What do you mean by split the 4 gauge to feed the amp? I have the 4 gauge going into the distro block that has (4) 8 gauge outputs. Sorry, just not visioning what you are saying.

    Thanks
    ahh-- check the post that i quoted for that-- you missed a number in the distro block outputs--leading to the confusion

    then i would use the current wire that you have available, and de-rate your main fuse accordingly(like i said, i run a similar setup-- the amps max draw is 140A but i installed a 80A main fuse, and have not had any problems so far).

    note-- the right way would be to replace the 4ga wire with a 1/0 ga, and upgrade the other wires to the correct recommended size for the amps, though what i said above will work, but don't expect to push the system past 'really hard'....

    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340 View Post
    Also, looks like the MRP-F300 is only 50 RMS x 4.. My RF500x was 65 RMS x 4. Is 50 enough? "50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)".

    The MM6501s (3 ohm) have a RMS rating of 25 - 125 while the DB650's (4 ohms) have a RMS rating of 6 - 60..

    With that being said I guess I couldn't get a higher rated RMS amp anyways since my rears can only handle 60 max..
    the rms wattage is the amount of power the speaker can take for many, many hours at a time(think running a speaker at full power for 24-48 hours at a time). i run nearly double the rms rating on all my speakers and have no issues in the 1-2 years that everything has been installed.

    50w per ch should be just a hair quieter then your old amp--nothing that a slight tweak of the gain control couldn't fix. i wouldn't worry about it too much. but if it is a concern, get a more powerful amp(i only posted it because it was a model that worked out alright for me, though there are a ton of amps that would also work reliably that i haven't used).

  3. #63
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    It does 75 RMS at 4 ohms.. Is it possible to hook it up like that (if needed, as in if I hook it up at 2 ohms but find it's not loud enough)?

    Also, my Kicker amp had a remote bass knob which I used constantly.. I'm surprised that the Alpine amp does not have that. Any way to add those?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

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  4. #64
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Ok so riddle me this because it is frustrating beyond belief.. I hook up my Kicker amp to my four door speakers as was recommended (in series) and they sounded fine. No real noise at all.. I drove with this amp hooked up like that about an hour or so to pick up the Alpine 4 channel amp.. The entire way it sounded good..

    I then unhook the Kicker amp and hook up the Alpine amp to ensure it works before I buy it.. With the Alpine you have to have 2 sets of RCAs connected to get all 4 speakers. I didn't have the Y cable on me so I just plugged in the RCAs in the fronts and the backs and verified it was working.. For the drive home I just had the front speakers.. Again, no noise issues..

    Well, I just hooked up the Alpine amp and placed it where it will be permanently (had to unhook all the wires that were going to it), added the Y adapters, and now I have noise out the ***! I can hear the hard disk etc.. It sounds good when the volume is louder than the noise but WTF!?

    Can someone explain this!?!?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

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  5. #65
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    honestly, i don't think it is worth worrying about that much. if i remember right, you need about 10-20 watts or so to get a 3db increase in volume. 3db is the smallest amount of change that a average human can discern. so you won't be missing much.

    as for the volume knob, your first option is a knob like this. the good side of this is that it is cheap. the bad side is that the rca's need to be routed through the knob-- so if you want this at your dash and the carpc and amps are in the back, that means you need to route the cables to loop to the front of the car..

    the other option is the jl audio cl-rlc volume control preamp. they retail for $60 ea(they can be head for cheaper, just without jl's warranty), so they are pricey, but you only need to route a 4-conductor phone cord to the front of the car for the volume controller. the preamp and all the audio connections can stay in the trunk(or where ever you want it to). personally, i run 4 of these, and have very little issues with them(my main problem is the spring loaded fuse terminals that resulted in the death of my f300...)

  6. #66
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Holy crap!! This Alpine Type R 12" freaking SLAMS!! I bought it in a package deal off craigslist and the dude threw in an old Pioneer GM-5100 amp. I figured I would just use that until I got a new amp but I don't think I even need to.. I am rocking now!!

    The only issue I have now is the freaking HDD noise which I noted early in the thread and then two posts up.. WTF!?

    Soundman, thanks for the links to those volume knobs..
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

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  7. #67
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340 View Post
    The only issue I have now is the freaking HDD noise which I noted early in the thread and then two posts up.. WTF!?
    i believe that is indicative of a ground loop. so that means it's time to check your connection points....

  8. #68
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    i believe that is indicative of a ground loop. so that means it's time to check your connection points....
    But why would it not have that sound when using the same distro block when I hooked it up to the Kicker amp. .Then it didn't have that sound when I hooked up the Alpine amp in a temp setting via the distro block (only two of the four channels though) but when I hooked it up permanently it's crazy noise..
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

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  9. #69
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    that's just how ground loop gremlins work.

    or it's because different amps have different sensitivity to it. also how high are your gains? i had a issue way back(6mo ago!) when i ran a pioneer 4ch amp that i had a slight whine, but it was due to my gains being nearly maxed out. once i lowered the gains, the ground loop wasn't there. come to think of it, i also had the 'hissing' problem with that as well. check that first..

  10. #70
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Regarding the whole setting of the gains.. I've read you are supposed to turn the gains all the way down and then the volume on the HU (or CarPC in this case) all the way up.. Then, gradually turn of the gains until you have distortion and then back it down a little..

    What if you never have distortion?

    Also, I know I won't with my sub either since it handles way more than this amp can push..

    School me Yoda..

    Thanks!
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

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