Is a preamp the knob we were talking about?
Also, I bought the cheaper amp control knob.. It looks like I have to run TWO sets of RCAs all the way from the front to the back?
i really don't know.... i have really never taken time to set my gains correctly(i have always run a preamp, so i usually adjust it there).... usually, i shoot for setting the amp gains to the 'normal' or '1.0v' setting. basically, anything below 75% full-on...
I've read through a lot of your posts and here are some suggestions. I had similar issues when i first started out in CarPC this past March. I built a fair spec'd PC and after hooking everything up it sounded like garbage. The main issue was noise. I put a ground bus in the car (PC was mounted up front) and that solved most of the Alternator wine, but nothing for the hiss or internal noise from the PC (HDD Access, mouse movements, etc.) So I tired an external USB sound card mounted closer to my amplifiers in the trunk. That caused more issues than using the onboard sound. So I went to thinking about some of my past audio setups and began my search for an optical solution using the Toslink output of the motherboard. I purchased a $70 dedicated DTS converter box off of Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details). It takes up to three optical inputs and an analog input and outputs either 5.1 or 2.1 audio. I built a dedicated 9VDC regulated power supply to power the device. Optionally, you could get this device (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details) and an aux 12VDC outlet from any auto parts store. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! The sound and detail of this device is amazing. It is a simple device that does nothing but decode DTS/AC3 or analog inputs into either 5.1 or 2.1 audio output. I still use the equalization in Centrafuse and RideRunner. My only quirk with this device is it will not phantomize the center output. So if you have it set for 5.1 you will need a dedicated center speaker and amplifier to sound correct (verified on my home system). I recommend this device for all CarPC systems. It will KILL 95% of all noise associated with a CarPC and if you are using SSDs you'd have no noise. Hope this helps.
tbird2340 it is possible that the output on your sound card is insufficient to mask the noise you are picking up from you RCA Cables. You should have at least 2 or 3 volts for normal out put to your amp. 4 or 5 volts would be tits. Again make sure that everything is grounded properly. That means that the PC is grounded to the chassis of your car as close to the PC as possible and also that your Amp or amps are grounded also as close to themselves as possible. Again make sure you are using a good quality RCA Cable and try to avoid running them near the power cords of the amp or for that matter any other car wiring. Try to avoid running them near any car components also. My last recommendation is to make sure that the ground side of the battery has as much up grade in gauge as the positive side. (what comes in must go out evenly) For instance if you add a 4 ga. wire to the positive side you need to add a 4 ga wire to the negative side of the battery to ground, again as close to the battery as possible.
from what i can tell, i think it would. most of the pics are a little fuzzy, but it looks like the knob has a level and subsonic filter adjustment on it--- assuming that is correct, then yes, it would kind-of work-- i don't see any easy way to disable the processor side of it..
Update.. Haven't really done anything to address the noise.. I have zero alternator whine which is great but still have a good amount of PC noise (HDD access etc). Don't hear it at higher volumes and that's why I really haven't bothered..
Issue I'm having now though is my lights flicker when the bass hits.. I think I just need a capacitor but I've never had one of these in any of my past systems.. What "farad" do I need to get?