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Thread: Why does my new setup sound like ***?

  1. #81
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    never buy a capacitor. burning your money with fire is more useful due to the temporary heat it creates. car audio capacitors only separate you from your money. caps are great at filling in single, momentary power sags--like when you turn large motors on, but can take upwards of 15-30minutes to recharge after just one 'bump'.. and i have never heard of anyone allowing for this in car audio, so it only becomes another parasitic draw--keeping even more power away from your amps.


    that means that something is not sized or connected correctly--- it could also be related to your ground loop. try correcting the ground loop first, and it might correct the dimming issue as well.

  2. #82
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    If you have lights dimming, the first thing I'd check is the gain on your amp. Make sure it's set properly. I don't recall what gauge wire you are running to the amp/carpc/everything else, but it might be undersized for the amount of power you are drawing (forgive me for not reviewing the thread, I'm off to bed in a minute). You should run at least 4GA from the battery to the amps/distro block/whatever (IMHO). You should also get the battery checked, because a low battery can contribute to flickering and other sudden power loss, and also get the alternator checked.

    I agree with soundman - don't waste your money on a cap. It won't help an underpowered/overtaxed system.
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  3. #83
    Constant Bitrate besjr69's Avatar
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    tbird2340,

    The caps you are referring too are called "Stiffening Capacitors" in the industry. They range anywhere from 1 - 20 farad. Here's a link (http://caraudiomag.com/articles/audi...capacitors-101) you can read to understand how they work and why they are used in car audio systems. The size you use in your system will primarily depending on how big the load is you're trying to drive. The caps store energy much like a battery for short periods of time. The higher the value, the longer it stores energy, the less flicker and tighter bass response you have in your system. Word of caution: capacitors only store and dissipate energy. It will not compensate for what your electrical system can't do. Basically, if you have a 90amp alternator do not try to power a 3Kw system. I have 2Kw in my current system and do not use a stiffening cap. However, the alternator in my cadillac is pretty good and I have no flicker or notice any sag in my bass response. Hope this helps. Good luck.

    Bobby

  4. #84
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    I'm running 4 gauge from the battery to a distro block which splits it into 8 gauge to each of my amps. The gain on my sub amp is all the way up and the gain on my 4 channel is probably about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way up..
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  5. #85
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Adjust the gain on your sub amp. I'm guessing it shouldn't be all the way up. My sub amp's gain is around 1/4, and it provides a ton of bass.
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  6. #86
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Regarding the sub amp gain.. The maximum RMS output it can produce is 520 W at 4 ohms. SWR-1223D is rated 300-600 RMS. It slams and sounds good at what it's at so I would hate to turn down the gain and lose some bump..

    The battery was replaced about a year ago (before any of this was installed) so I doubt it's bad.

    As far as having a ground loop.. I don't see where that would be possible either. I have *one* 4gauge ground wire going to a distro block which then branches out to provide my grounds. Where could that create a loop?

    Thanks for all the replies.
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  7. #87
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    It's not an issue of what the amp can deliver. The issue is if the amp is drawing more power than your charging system can supply. Turn it down and see if the lights stop dimming.

    If the alternator can't keep up with the demand, then your battery will be forced to supply the power. That can and will damage the battery. Just because the battery is a year old doesn't mean that you haven't damaged it in some way.
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  8. #88
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    With the volume low the lights don't dim.. That's the simulating the same as turning the gain down, no?

    So with that being said.. Is my only solution to not play as loud or upgrade the alternator (which would be rather expensive and something I wouldn't do)?

    I just can't believe with just two amps my car can't push this. It's not like I'm running HUGE amps with 4 12's or something..
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  9. #89
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    your running a system that pulls 1300 watts at full power, with the amp gain turned up too much, from a single 4ga wire.. that is literally the definition of a huge setup... (to be fair, my current setup also pulls some similar numbers, but i have zero issues with dimming--using teh stock 80A alt and a upgraded battery, all of my setups before this were under 800-900w max..)


    you should turn down the amp gain to at least 75%--anything higher then that is nearly useless. the amp is really overworking itself, and is causing more distortion..

    if that is not enough bass, then you need to start looking into correctly supplying power to that monstrosity of a setup-- that means a 'big 3' upgrade, 0ga wire, possibly a different higher capacity battery or 2, and possibly a higher output alternator. real power ain't cheap..

  10. #90
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    What is so hard about turning down the gain? Are your amps in a location where you can't twist the knob and set your gain correctly?

    I give up...
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

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