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Thread: CarPC audio wiring choices....

  1. #1
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    CarPC audio wiring choices....

    Hey guys, I know there are one million and one threads that almost match this already, But I need some specific advice as I cant continue sifting through any more of the threads getting a semi answer to my predicament..

    I do thank you for your time in advance as the help and support from you guys here at mp3car is amazing.!


    First up i have my self a fairly basic CarPC getting ready to go in. The important part of it you all need to know is the motherboard: ASRock A75M-ITX

    Now to my predicament.

    I'm trying to decide how to go about getting the Audio from my CarPC to my Speaker/Sub Amps (5 Amps to be precise, 6 RCA inputs)
    What I need to keep in the process is the ability to use Balance and Fade.

    Wiring Method 1:

    3.5mm jack --> 3.5mm/RCA --> Front Speaker RCA input
    3.5mm jack --> 3.5mm/RCA --> Rear Speaker RCA input
    3.5mm jack --> 3.5mm/RCA --> Subwoofer RCA input

    Wiring Method 2:

    Optical Out --> Optical/RCA --> MPQ-5XO or MPQ-7B --> To Amps via RCA

    Wiring Method 3:

    2 or 3x 3.5mm jack --> 3.5mm/RCA --> so form of power addition to match high level input --> INT-2BX --> To Amps via RCA


    So my questions are, Which option is going to be better for me wanting the better of quality out of them and keeping the ability to have Fade and Balance in tact. If the Sub has to be on any specific channel i guess having it on the rear channel would be fine? If it gets its own even better.

  2. #2
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    None of the methods you show will allow you to fade or balance. You will only be able to adjust your sub level.

    The computer control will use surround sound which means for most music you will hear nothing from the rear speakers unless you have a mode that supports this.


    There was already a discussion about this elsewhere about using a specific DAC.
    It will use your optical output and feed it into a fully functional converter that will allow a lot more flexibility than anything you have listed there and cost about the same or maybe slightly more.

    You will have to look for it but the information within it is well worth the effort.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by redheadedrod View Post
    None of the methods you show will allow you to fade or balance. You will only be able to adjust your sub level.

    The computer control will use surround sound which means for most music you will hear nothing from the rear speakers unless you have a mode that supports this.


    There was already a discussion about this elsewhere about using a specific DAC.
    It will use your optical output and feed it into a fully functional converter that will allow a lot more flexibility than anything you have listed there and cost about the same or maybe slightly more.

    You will have to look for it but the information within it is well worth the effort.
    Ok thanks for that ill do some more digging, but if anyone knows of this discussion and has a link would be greatly appreciated.

  4. #4
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    So even with this Realtek HD Audio Manager i cant output my music and what not via 3x 3.5mm jacks to 3 sets of RCA plugs use 1 set to Front, 1 set to Rear and 1 set to Sub
    Speaker Plug Theory
    I would just un-check the center optional speaker (highlights in yellow), and maybe check the speaker fill (highlighted in green).
    Also with the plugs highlighted in red i can set them to what i like. (aka have all speakers front or all rear)

    To me that looks like it would work as I click each speaker in that picture i get sound from that specific one so i would assume the same in a car?

    the only addition I would need is a line driver/pre amp on each set of RCAs before they get to my amps.?

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate FockMasterDan's Avatar
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    I know it's more expensive, but you've already got a computer setup and the amps. My route was to use a fully functional DSP instead of just an EQ in between the computer and amps. Not only will it give you complete control, but it'll give you far better SQ in the end. I used an optical connection to my DSP and used it's DAC after processing has been applied so that I'm not going through the conversion process more than once.
    Computer is in the car, but in a very "raw" install right now.

    Worklog - here

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FockMasterDan View Post
    I know it's more expensive, but you've already got a computer setup and the amps. My route was to use a fully functional DSP instead of just an EQ in between the computer and amps. Not only will it give you complete control, but it'll give you far better SQ in the end. I used an optical connection to my DSP and used it's DAC after processing has been applied so that I'm not going through the conversion process more than once.
    Ok that's some good info right there

    With the MiniDSP 2x8 your using, have you/can you get a pic or two of the setup cabling from the PC to DSP (DIGI-FP to MiniDSP) please it would help me a bit..

    Also on that note will what i suggested before with jsut the 3x 3.5mm to rca with a line driver to amps work the same jsut not the quality of the MiniDSP?

    or maybe something like This will work from Toslink/Optical to the 5.1 i want?
    Last edited by tjr1990; 03-30-2013 at 05:00 AM.

  7. #7
    Constant Bitrate FockMasterDan's Avatar
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    So I have a Toslink cable going from my soundcard's optical out to the optical in on the Digi-FP card. You can see it here right in the middle.


    The Digi-FP card is jumpered internally to the 2x8, it's a IO card made by the same company as an expansion option. Here is a circuit board bench test shot, you can see the wide white cable in the middle.


    After that it's just RCA-RCA from the DSP to the amps.

    There are other DSP options out there, but if you're a DIYer the MiniDSP route is a really fun one to use and save some cash.

    If you want to retain potential surround sound I would go method 1 and figure out some software DSP solutions that you can run on the computer to get the control that you want. It will work to directly send the signals to the amp (or to an external EQ if you want), it's just a matter of how much control you get while in the car.

    There are also more powerful external EQs that can give you the fade and balance control that you'd want, but you'd have to research those. I didn't dig too deep into particulars because I went the DSP route, which was primarily for the active crossovers. I could have achieved the other functions through a simpler setup, but going active requires a DSP.
    Computer is in the car, but in a very "raw" install right now.

    Worklog - here

  8. #8
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    awesome, thank you, you managed to answer my question and give me a good lot of info about them DSP's.

    They have got quiet a nice price tag on them though :L

    also I'm assuming they have software to control balance/fade etc...

  9. #9
    Constant Bitrate FockMasterDan's Avatar
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    Yeah the DSPs come with factory software to control all of that. Here is someone else's screenshot of the output page on the MiniDSP software.



    If you aren't looking for that pricetag I would check out some EQs that have a remote control unit that mounts up front.
    Computer is in the car, but in a very "raw" install right now.

    Worklog - here

  10. #10
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    I've looked and looked at EQs and jsut cant seem to find a suited one :L if anyone is currently using an EQ and likes it feel free to drop a name here

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