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Thread: Amp Wiring (homemade diagram inside); Need advice on routing/thinking pattern.

  1. #1
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    Question Amp Wiring (homemade diagram inside); Need advice on routing/thinking pattern.

    This is my first here even though I signed up a while ago. I currently own a 1990 Nissan 300ZX and am in the process of putting her back together. I stripped the entire interior as I'm laying down sound deadening (loud HKS exhaust) and doing a lot of major work on the car. I don't have a stereo system YET but I figured while everything is gutted what better time is there to run my wiring to the trunk area for a future setup. I'm contempt with an 800W setup as I don't want to go overboard.

    I purchased the following:

    50' of 2/0 Power Cable (battery will be relocated to the trunk)
    2 AMP Kits (just in case I needed extra wiring)
    Copper Eyelet Terminals for the Power Cable (2/0 Gauge)
    17 FT RCA Cable (braided; long so I can route as I please)


    My whole thinking pattern is to have the wiring sticking out the trunk and tucked away so that in the future it would only be a matter of connecting the stuff I have and not having to tear into the interior. I did some research online and know that you're not supposed to run wires next to each other (AMP, Speaker) for the feedback so I drew up a diagram of my thinking pattern. Please feel free to make modifications w/ MS Paint or whatever you use.



    I'm basically looking for direction. Currently the car is set up with Pioneer speakers all around. I'm laying down the sound deadening first and running the wires on top. Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    DO NOT take power from the starter. Take it from the battery.
    If the battery is relocated to the trunk (boot) as your diagram indicates, that makes your wiring a lot simpler.
    You just need a line that senses ignition state to trigger amps and/or PC power supply. You can probably get this from the stock radio harness or a cigarette lighter (if your car has one).
    If there are no other options, you can get your ignition line from the ignition itself.

    This simplified (and shorter) power run also makes runs for audio lines easier, since you don't have to worry about power lines and audio lines running next to one another, potentially introducing noise into the system.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarquePervert View Post
    DO NOT take power from the starter. Take it from the battery.
    I wasn't going to take power from my starter. I was going to run a power wire from the starter to the battery. I would have a ground from the Negative terminal to one of the strut towers. My buddy suggested that I instead run a ground to the chassis on the rail. I'm just confused as to what I would be doing with my alternator. Again, this is my first time doing anything like this. The whole car is stripped and cleaned.

    In the diagram the wire from the starter to the battery will be by itself. I purchased 2 distribution blocks as well. Did I get the routes correct on my diagram? Would you guys recommend a different route for the wiring?

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by Android300ZX; 07-11-2013 at 02:14 PM.

  4. #4
    Raw Wave
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    In summary, when moving the main battery from the hood to the boot/trunk, a longer (and bigger gauge) cable from batt+ to starter heavy replaces the original short (and thinner) starter cable.

    The +12V cables that went to the battery +12V then go to the starter heavy terminal. That might be by running a wire from the main fuse box etc to the starter heavy. The alternator's heavy output should also go the starter heavy though it could go (or remain) to the main fusebox etc.

    If the alternator has a Sense terminal (ie, if it is NOT a single wire aka D+ type), then its wire should be taken direct to the battery +12V terminal independent of the main heavy battery +12V cable. But that's a thin cable. The highest Sense current I have seen is 15mA (from older Bosch S&L alternators).


    For grounding, a typically short and heavy battery -ve to chassis cable should suffice.
    If the chassis/body ground is insufficient (which I doubt, but some claim otherwise), then a heavy cable from batt- to the gearbox or engine block or starter etc.
    Existing engine to chassis/body/main-wiring ground wiring should look after the rest, though as with "the big 3" (or my big 4), extra or heavier GND wiring (and alternator/battery +12V) wiring may be beneficial.


    An important thing to remember is that like OEM starter motor +12V heavy wiring, you are relying on PHYSICAL security for protection (since few if any have fuses in starter supplies).
    And if using an AGM battery (as you should unless its in a sealed but vented enclosure) and not using lead battery terminals, you lose those terminals as a final possible fusing point - not that they should be used as fuses (the battery may explode before them; besides, molten hot lead flying everywhere...).


    FYI - I have also seen installations where an additional heavyish cable is run from battery +12V to the vehicle electrics (fuse box etc, maybe including the alternator). Except where the main +12V "supply" (fusebox etc) is NOT in the engine bay, their logic beats me. Why do they want to use a lower resistance cable than the heavy starter cable carry +12V power?? (Maybe if the starter cable voltage drop during cranking is so high that other critical loads cut out, but that should mean an undersized main cable.)
    Last edited by OldSpark; 07-11-2013 at 07:31 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldSpark View Post
    In summary, when moving the main battery from the hood to the boot/trunk, a longer (and bigger gauge) cable from batt+ to starter heavy replaces the original short (and thinner) starter cable.

    The +12V cables that went to the battery +12V then go to the starter heavy terminal. That might be by running a wire from the main fuse box etc to the starter heavy. The alternator's heavy output should also go the starter heavy though it could go (or remain) to the main fusebox etc.

    If the alternator has a Sense terminal (ie, if it is NOT a single wire aka D+ type), then its wire should be taken direct to the battery +12V terminal independent of the main heavy battery +12V cable. But that's a thin cable. The highest Sense current I have seen is 15mA (from older Bosch S&L alternators).


    For grounding, a typically short and heavy battery -ve to chassis cable should suffice.
    If the chassis/body ground is insufficient (which I doubt, but some claim otherwise), then a heavy cable from batt- to the gearbox or engine block or starter etc.
    Existing engine to chassis/body/main-wiring ground wiring should look after the rest, though as with "the big 3" (or my big 4), extra or heavier GND wiring (and alternator/battery +12V) wiring may be beneficial.


    An important thing to remember is that like OEM starter motor +12V heavy wiring, you are relying on PHYSICAL security for protection (since few if any have fuses in starter supplies).
    And if using an AGM battery (as you should unless its in a sealed but vented enclosure) and not using lead battery terminals, you lose those terminals as a final possible fusing point - not that they should be used as fuses (the battery may explode before them; besides, molten hot lead flying everywhere...).


    FYI - I have also seen installations where an additional heavyish cable is run from battery +12V to the vehicle electrics (fuse box etc, maybe including the alternator). Except where the main +12V "supply" (fusebox etc) is NOT in the engine bay, their logic beats me. Why do they want to use a lower resistance cable than the heavy starter cable carry +12V power?? (Maybe if the starter cable voltage drop during cranking is so high that other critical loads cut out, but that should mean an undersized main cable.)
    Thanks for the reply. I will decipher that as best as I could and draw some kind of visual diagram. By the way I planned to use an Odyssey Battery in case that piece of info is important.

  6. #6
    Raw Wave
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    Whilst I knew Optima went bad, I was disappointed to learn that Odyssey were not good either.
    The recommendations I heard here downunder were Deka and some other, and stateside Kinetic with many also endorsing Deka (or whatever spellings apply LOL).


    But the same old rule applies - wet cell crankers are the most suited and forgiving for cranking and abuse. AGMs are better as additional batteries.

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