I have a cap for sale, used for 6 months, but about 9 years old, stored carefully in the closet, looks like new......sorry wrong section to post this in......
BTW, when I did try it, it appeared to add a lot of watts to the system. It seemed on par with the % of increase I got from my STP stickers for adding HP. I think they must work on the same technology....
I'm the deep pocket overkill guy I guess. I got an 150 amp alternator, isolated spare battery just for amps and pc, 1F cap, extra parallel grounds to HU, short run 1/0 awg wire with everything in trunk. All that for only 800wrms, sound processor, and pc. Not only that, but I placed dynamat squares anywhere I thought might transmit vibration, not for full coverage but rather to absorb outside noise. I still have to install the pc, but will probably never be finished messing around, as it is a hobby and is fun.
Originally Posted by PhilG
Better make sure to grease the muffler bearings and change the blinker fluid before adding the flux capacitor. Once you add it the bearings will vibrate and cause corrosion and the blinker fluid if not changed will start separating due to the pounding the Capacitor allows. Blinker fluid that separates is bad news because your blinkers will turn blue and people will think you are an emergency vehicle and you will get a ticket.
So it seems that the debate is closed for most.
PhilG probably mentioned the real power adder, namely the STP sticker (since we all know a cap does not create power...).
And does a cap "add power" if it decreases peak SPL? And if it does, then since a battery stores far more power than a cap...
And if you read the audio forums, you'll read how a cap "puts more strain" on the charging system. (That's bullsh - a cap like a bigger or more batteries will DECREASE the "strain" on a charging system.)
So, apart from a cap being used to protect AGMs against big surges, or when space is limited or an isolator is undesirable, then a bigger or more batteries is the superior solution.
Adequate or improved wiring and a good alternator are the first things to implement.
Then whether bigger or more batteries else a cap helps depends on the system and what is desired, and that's where I find audio forums and other discussions full of contradictions and misunderstandings.
On another respected 12V & audio forum I once suggested a proper evaluation using a proper step function to simulate big audio amps (since they use SMPS) and s-domain (time domain) techniques. Alas that seemed to complex for most (not surprising since some reckoned an amp's resistance changed as its current varied!) so I didn't continue. Later however I did an evaluation with a mate that still used and understood s-transforms and we concluded that my arguments were correct (especially for long burps which cap enthusiasts conveniently seem not to define nor consider).
As for old caps that have dried out or failed... ouch! - they are worse than failed AGMs.
Don't forget the cross-drilled brake lines.
Originally Posted by redheadedrod
Sheesh! You guys are brutal! :D
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Hey, I got most of the upgrades for my truck from there, they have lightening fast shipping....
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...79663551_n.jpgHere is a lay out now -as you can see no power to the new amp yet
I am thinking that I would do this. Upgrade the fuse...add a second fuse to the sub amp...both amps call for and recommend 4 gauge.