Having problem with AMP, need HELP!!

**fantomas** · 04-30-2004, 01:02 PM

the majority of the amps ive worked with...the power LED indicator will turn on as long as theres the REM line and a ground. you're amp might not be getting any power to begin with...(i quickly read through all the previous posts). take a voltmeter and make sure you're getting power through the main power line. maybe you blew a fuse? check your fuses. -scott

**ryuandwings** · 04-30-2004, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by falconey

If you want I'll give you my phone number. If you can take a pic of your connections and I can help over the phone. Let me know and I'll send through a pm. I hate for people to take stuff like this to an installer. You're so close. I don't think you mentioned this, but is the amp new or used?

Thanks for the offer. There are a few suggestion I'd like to try, but if everything fail I may need your help.

Originally Posted by SAScooby

So what is happening here is the AMP is not getting the REM +12v signal to begin doing its thing, if the headunit is there, then obviously the circuit is complete, the LED on the AMP just shows it has -12 V and +12 V it is missing the turnon signal that the headunit provides, once this is rectified all will be 100% to check my theory run a visual on the back of the amp and aside from the speaker connections there should be a -12 a +12 and REM or similiar, the REM needs +12v at time of ignition to "power" up the amps, if this is the case, run a +12v from the battery to the amp REM to provide turn on power, obviously if this works you need a more elegant solution, ie properly wired to a wire that becomes +12 on vehicle on status

Actually, when I tested with headunit, I was testing the speakers and not the AMP. I will try to hook up AMP to the headunit and see if I get any sound.
So you are saying that REM does not need to be continuously supplying +12V? It is there to turn the AMP on?

Originally Posted by fantomas

the majority of the amps ive worked with...the power LED indicator will turn on as long as theres the REM line and a ground. you're amp might not be getting any power to begin with...(i quickly read through all the previous posts). take a voltmeter and make sure you're getting power through the main power line. maybe you blew a fuse? check your fuses. -scott

As of now, the power indicator LED turns on. (one AMP stays solid and Pioneer AMP it flashes, if that means anything) I would definately have to test the lines with voltmeter. I have checked the fuses on outside of AMPs and they are OK. When I test the lines with the voltmeter, REM and +12V lines should read somewhere around +12V and ground is -12V, right?

**ryuandwings** · 04-30-2004, 01:53 PM

One more question.
If my ground connection is not perfectly tight, does AMP still comes on without no sound?

I was assuming the ground is connected since the power indicator come on. Could there be enough power for the LED to come on but not enough to produce sound

?

**Jackso** · 04-30-2004, 02:06 PM

There are 3 power connections you need to make sure are correct. You should have a constant good ground connected to the ground terminal. You should have a constant 12V connected to the power terminal. You should have a switched 12V connected to the remote (rem) terminal. The remote terminal is basically what tells the amp when to turn on. You could use a switched accy port for this, or a switch, or if you get real tricky (after this all works) you can even make it come on only when the computer is on.

Use a volt meter to check all three of these connections. Once you have concluded that these are correct, you can then assume that it is a speaker problem (since you know that you can get audio from the computer, you've done that in the house). If it is a speaker problem, it is most likely a wiring problem, perhaps you have the + and - of multiple speakers mixed up, i.e. + of left front and - of right front connected to one output on the amp. Make sure that the + and - from one speaker are going to one output of the amp.

As the others have said, pictures would be great.

**fantomas** · 04-30-2004, 02:20 PM

Originally Posted by ryuandwings

Actually, when I tested with headunit, I was testing the speakers and not the AMP. I will try to hook up AMP to the headunit and see if I get any sound.
So you are saying that REM does not need to be continuously supplying +12V? It is there to turn the AMP on?

there must be some source of 12v (usually less than 1 amp of power) going to the REM on the amp. That gives the signal for the amp to turn on. usually on the back of aftermarket head units they have a blue accessory line going out. but in your case you should probably use the ignition line or maybe even hardwired to a line thats constantly hot but put a switch in so you can turn the amp on or off manually.

next you need the power cable that goes from the battery to the amp. (18" from the battery, or less, there should be a fuse on that cable) Thats constantly hot. I calculated that the fuse on the cable should be about 30 amps (400 / 14.4). if its something different thats ok. (its usually the combined amperage of however many fuses are on the outside of the amp.. ie if you have 2 15 amp fuses on the outside of the amp put a 30 amp fuse near the batter)

and finally the ground is the most important aspect IMO. make it as short as possible, same gauge as the power. but this seems to be fine from what i've read

As of now, the power indicator LED turns on. (one AMP stays solid and Pioneer AMP it flashes, if that means anything) I would definately have to test the lines with voltmeter. I have checked the fuses on outside of AMPs and they are OK. When I test the lines with the voltmeter, REM and +12V lines should read somewhere around +12V and ground is -12V, right?

look in the owner's manual. it should say what it means if the LED is flashing. Or you could even call up pioneer if the manual doesn't say.

to test the voltage just take the positive on the meter, hook it up to the power cable, and the negative to a ground (you could use the ground cable) if everything is ok then...well..everything is ok. while you're at it, you might as well do the same thing with your REM, although im almost certain thats not the problem. as long as the voltages say 12 or -12 (or 13.8 or -14.4 etc) it doesnt matter. that just means that the polarity on the voltmeter is reversed.

i hope i was clear enough on my explaination...good luck -scott

**falconey** · 04-30-2004, 03:59 PM

I'm thinking that a flashing light means the amp is in protection. I think you have the amp wired incorrectly. Or better yet it may be that you aren't using the correct guage of wire. Do you know what gauge wire you are using? It should be at least 8awg.

**ryuandwings** · 04-30-2004, 04:12 PM

Originally Posted by falconey

I'm thinking that a flashing light means the amp is in protection. I think you have the amp wired incorrectly. Or better yet it may be that you aren't using the correct guage of wire. Do you know what gauge wire you are using? It should be at least 8awg.

I don't know the gage of the wires right now, but I follow the some recommendations which was based on the length of cable and wattage of AMP. Either way I will double check that tonight.

Also, hopefully I can take some photos this weekend.

**fantomas** · 04-30-2004, 04:30 PM

the wire gauge does not limit the flow of electricity per se. if the wire is too small what ultimately will happen is it will heat up too much and set ablaze to the car.

**falconey** · 04-30-2004, 04:35 PM

Originally Posted by ryuandwings

Also, hopefully I can take some photos this weekend.

Yeah that would help a lot. It would take much of this guessing away.

**ryuandwings** · 04-30-2004, 08:24 PM

OK guys, here is a update.
The system works now!!!

It turns out that main fuse was "partially" blown. Meaning supplying about 8V to the +12V terminal. Which explains the flashing LED. I guess AMP was not getting enough power.
Well, because of my stupid assumption, that AMP was getting some power I thought fuse was not blown. The fuse has a crack on the side and it looks a little wierd. I did not think fuse could be partially blown. I always thought it was on or off and not anything in between.

I feel very stupid and bad that I drag you guys with my problem.
Anyway, thanks to you guys the AMP is working and my carputer should be near complete!!!

Thank you very much!