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Thread: audio wiring in Mk IV Jetta w/ monsoon

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Bay Area, California
    Chances are, if you have factory amplifiers, that the connection for input is quite easy. Look up your vehicle wiring diagram. I believe put back up the universal vehicle wiring database.

    If your car stereo has factory amplifeirs, and in the wiring diagram there is a wire for amp turn on, remote turn on, something of that nature, then you will very easily be able to remove the stock radio.

    the outs on the radio, if it is fully amped externally, will be at a preout voltage, so the speaker outs on the diagram become your line level ins directly from the sound card. Then, you can simply rewire remote on to the car's ignition, also found in the wiring diagram. this will turn on the amplifiers with the car, and let the computer be the audio source.

    If your car does not have factory amplifiers, or if some speakers are amplified by the radio itself, you will need to invest in an aftermarket amplifier in order to drive them. there are several out there to be had for a reasonable price, and will work just fine using ignition as the remote turn on source.

    any other questions/clarification?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Thanks for the quick reply. No more questions for now.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005

    Lightbulb Read This - All The Info U Need

    Alright guy here, but filled with tons of knowledge on the topic, so listen up and save lots of time and money.

    First off, to address the splitting issue all the way at the top with the crossovers and stuff....trash it. WAY TOO OVERTHOUGHT. All 8 speakers come back on individual leads to the pins 1-16 in the green plug of the amp. Pins 17-23 are power and other stuff. All your connections are waiting for you in one plug at the amp. The gray plug is input from the deck @ low level.
    Also by the way....THERE IS NO TURN ON WIRE FOR THE AMP!!! It works off of a DC offset principle. When the amp detects DC offset on the input lines, a.k.a. MUSIC, it turns on....kind of like the amps with smart-on technology.

    Next, the midrange speakers are 2 ohm speakers. The are designed almost like bandpass. 80 or 120 hz thru about 300 is all they're good for really. Then the tweets are 4 ohm, and their range is a given...high and higher. You need to be good with the ohm loads to make everything work right.

    There are several options.....(1) buy 2 sets of component speakers, mount them and connect the crossovers in the trunk...done. (2) Leave the OEMs and run the midranges off a 4ch amp, and the tweets of a 4ch amp...still a lot of money....and takes longer. (3) Run the midranges off the 4ch amp, and goto a local shop and buy capacitors (a.k.a. bass blockers) to cut the frequency to the tweets, and run them from a headunit if u want....etc

    Regarding a wire harness for the factory amp plugs....It doesn't exist unless you make one. I bought a monsoon amp off ebay for $20, and desoldered the plug from the board. It took me about 10 minutes to map the wires using a tone generator, and a 9v battery for polarity. I will be happy to share the wiring code for those me if you want.

  4. #14
    Low Bitrate Stonewall78's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Calgary, AB
    All good points by agent418. Make sure to check out this thread on the vortex for more hints etc linky

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